iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer Replacement

This is very useful

https://www.jerryrigeverything.com/wp-co...

you should post a question on the answers forum

I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and

BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

MAY I suggest:

1) Obtain:

— a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

— a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

— a pencil (or pen)

2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

or about sneezing!

The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

- Use magnetic pad, wipeable

- Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

with a non-permanent marker

- When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

Hope that helps.

I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

I recommend a loop of tape attached to the table, and placing the screws on the tape in the order they were taken out. identifying the screws to put back is a simple matter of going the other way back up the tape.

Did the repair for the second time, each time faster and easier. This steps by step is amazing and crystal clear no mistake possible.

Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

Duck Tape worked great for me. Thanks for the great instruction!

Tried several types of tape but finally used this screw driver solution. At first I wasn't pushing hard enough for fear of damaging things but with just a bit of extra force I was able to open it right up. Everything is fine with only a slight scratch on the frame.

I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

Clean the glass screen first with eye glass cleaner wipes (alcohol). Hair dryer on hot with low air speed works excellent. Aim the heat at 45 degrees (phone face up) and move around the perimeter for about 1 minute. The edges should be hot enough to barely touch without burning your figures. This seems to get the glue hot enough at the edges for easy removal. Warm the glass face a bit and also warm the suction cup, this makes the suction a lot better and the suction cup won’t come off like it will if the face and suction cup are cold. Later when removing the battery, heat the bottom with the hair dryer for about 30 seconds and the top of the bottom of the battery where the 2 tabs are for the tape behind the battery. This makes for simple removal of the battery tape under it.

Here’s what I did to open my iPhone (I had it open in under 1 minute): 1) I has one of those rice/barley filled eye masks that you heat up in a microwave. I heated it for 1 min and then placed my phone face down onto it for 1-2 min. 2) I placed the suction cup onto the left lower corner and the “tweezers” into the headphone jack. Pull upwards with the suction cup and hold the phone’s body down in place with the tweezers. 3) a gap will open. Slide the edge of a razor blade into the gap (not too deep) 4) insert the plastic triangular guitar pick tool into the gap next to the razor blade. Slide sideways with the triangular tool to make the gap large enough to insert the spudger. 5) insert the edge of the spudger tool (curve down) into the, now widened, gap. 6) slide the spudger tool along the edges of the iPhone. Opened!

For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

Any info would be appreciated.

https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

I’ll throw in here for other noobs as someone who just read ALL the comments and had things go pretty well without a hitch.

Adhesive here goes ALL the way around edge. I think think many people’s frustration comes from in adequate heating and/or only heating the inferior edge area. I went with 5 min of a rice/shoulder thingy, (uniform rectangle folded in half on a plate, 3 min in the microwave) Plate side was hot potato hot and stayed so.

Other inference and comment curating:

a. Use pointy spudger end inserted slightly into headphone jack to hold down phone while pulling up;

b. 2mm lift MAX the insert something to hold while you bring the flat end of the spudger around (I just used the flesh of my finger;

c. Twist spudger ONLY zero -20 degrees when inserted;

d. Avoid spudgering above or between the pentab screw holes.

e. Avoid sticking the spudger in more than 2 mm as you slide up the left and right edges. If you catch, back it out a bit until you can keep sliding.

Also all props to Ifixit for addressing many issues with earlier versions of this and their replacement kit! A lot of complaints are clearly obsolete now.

And if this your first time block out an afternoon and be glad if it only takes 20-30 minutes. Rushing causes breakage more often than not.

I’m in a third world country without access to a hairdryer. Is there anyway else to loosen the adhesive?

On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

Goodluck!!

-J

The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.

Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.

Run a little isopropanol along the seam at the bottom end (I had no syringe, so I dipped the handle end of a spoon in and ran that along). Leave a couple of minutes, then warm with a hair drier. It will pop right off with the suction cup.

It was so much easier after I removed the two screws from step one… LOL! With heat, the screen should come up quite easily. You definitely don’t want to pull too hard. I introduced a small illumination artifact into the screen where the suction cup was attached. I’m not sure whether this was due to the suction cup or excessive heat. I was using a heat gun and trying to warm the screen evenly so it wouldn’t crack. But the temp might have been too high. Next time I’ll just heat the metal around the edges.

don’t forget the screws like my stupid self did!!!

After 45 minutes of using a hair dryer the entire time while suction cupping it some 50 times (kept popping off), I finally was able to create the gap needed to remove the display. I found steady pulling of the suction cup was useless. I had to quickly pull,release,pull,release,repeat and this nudged the tape apart, which had the constancy of dried superglue. Not easy, but this phone was 7 years old,....

Got this done in about 2 minutes!! I used a space with that had a fan function. Held up my phone to it for a few minutes, also heated up the suction cup. I didn't have extra help, so the whole "pull suction cup with left hand, hold down phone by headphone jack with right hand, and insert pick with ??? hand" wasn't going to work. I was able to hold the phone down while also pulling up on the suction cup all with my left hand (almost like i was peeling the screen up). Stuck a plastic Opening Pick in the small opening, then slid in the flat end of a spudger. I could not rotate the spudger like in the photo (photo 2 of step 6), the screen was stuck on too tight, so I just started sliding the thin end of the spudger around. I held the phone up in front of the heater during this. I also used the pick to cut adhesive along the way.

+1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

As others have said, do not twist the spudger. To release the display, you only need to create a gap of a few millimetres. Better to slide the spudger as directed to release the adhesive, bottom left and right.

ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

Use two spudgers.

One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

The other to get worked around the unit.

These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

I used a full beer can and 2 elastic bands to hold the face at 90 degrees. One elastic at the top and one at the bottom keeps the face still at 90 degrees. This allows you to work on the phone easily. I did not remove the face totally to redo the perimeter glue as I have never dropped my phone in the water over the “long” time I have had it.

On reassembly, notice that the top does not snap in. There are hooks that must be engaged before levering the halves back together

If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

Rounded corner, both here and Display cover, takes the Longest screw.

David.

For removing screws, I used a piece of paper and sketched the screw locations and screw sizes in the appropriate pattern for each step I was working on removing screws. I folded clear packing tape in a loop so some sticky area was on top for each screw so they did not fly away when the hair dryer was on or in case I knocked the paper while working beside it. This kept all the screws in an easy pattern with descriptions for later install. Worked slick.

Ordered a replacement kit, opened my Iphone 6S, got to this step... surprise, my OEM battery connector is at the TOP ! I am stuck, what now?

It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

so we are supposed to attach the battery connector back on before peeling the plastic off the adhesive on back of new battery and while still attached, remove the plastic to expose the adhesive? And then once adhered, disconnect the battery connector again until last step? Just want to make sure I have this correct. So wish they had did step by step with pics for reassembly vs just "repeat steps in reverse order" with some notations.

My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

Anyone have the same issue?

A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.

I skipped 17 to 22 as I was not redoing the perimeter glue. Worked well for me, except the phone will not be water proof.

no need to remove the display. I did not even secure it..just did the replacement carefully. All worked out well. Also unless you are planning on submerging the phone in the water replace the perimeter glue. Otherwise it works just fine with out it.

Perfect. I followed the instructions and it worked to a "T". For the critics who don't know, the screwdriver handle is magnetized and will hold the tiny screws in place while you remove or insert them. After the battery replacement the phone seems to be going through some type of setup. I'll wait and see what happens after its charged to 100%.

The "Three 1.2 mm screws" seem to be particularly fragile either that or the PH00 and the PH000 are the incorrect drivers - this part of the guide should be clearer on what driver should be used as every time I touch these screws I seem to strip them 😩

Hope this helps

Regards

IMHO this is not neccessary.

I took A Guy Called Guy's advice and skipped this entire Front Assembly Step and went straight to Step 23.

For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.

IMHO this is not neccessary.

My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.

I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?

IMHO this is not neccessary.

There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process. My replacement only got 3, what should i do?

IMHO this is not neccessary.

I work for Jabil building the rudder for the F-35 & THIS seems so aggravating ! I’m leaving this to someone experienced, doing it over & over again!! Gives someone a job too! Some things are just worth paying for!

Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

IMHO this is not neccessary.

I preferred not to use the adhesive edges around the phone, as this makes replacing the battery in future more time consuming. My iPhone works fine without the adhesive.

When i assembled my new homebutton, I couldn’t mange to make it work properly. The screws, as described earlier, had to be adjusted but even this wasn’t enough. Once I put the iPhone case together and tightened up the screws it would push the metal cover all the way so the button wouldn’t click. After trying multiple screw settings I came to a somewhat unorthodox solution. I placed a piece of folded paper under the left corner of the metal cover. Now it wouldn`t press the button anymore and the paper keeps everything in place until fully reassembled.

Yeah, super light on the screws here when you put them back in. I have a bit of stage lighting right over the screw area, so I’m thinking that’s coming from being put in just a tiny bit too tightly.

I think it broke because there’s some adhesive right under where the thin neck joins to the casing. I did the same!

I also used the pointed spludger to gently pry up the rubber gasket after heating the backside with a hairdryer

When reassembling, my button has become somewhat less responsive. The finger print works fine and the button clicks when pressed. But sometimes when clicking, it responds immediately, but other times I have to continuously press the button or press really hard. Any tips or ideas what I might have done wrong??

Slow and steady is the name of the game here. Heat it with a hair dryer, push the home button up through the bottom (as if you were pressing it, just a little harder), and keep heating it while you have it stretched. Eventually it will sort of snap out on one side, and then slowly work the pressure from underneath around the edge.

What part is the connection that connects this called ?

1.3mm is definitely too small. I had lost this screw and when I tried to put a 1.3mm screw in, the threads wouldn't catch. 1.4mm was the smallest that would fit. 1.9mm also worked so that's what I used. Seems like it would be more secure than 1.4mm.

Gasket does not seem to have any connection or logic. I just let it be when I could not fit it. Worked fine.

Isn't the gasket some sort of water resistant seal?

Gasket always breaks during reinstalling but so far no negative effects.

I couldn’t fit the gasket back around the metallic piece it surrounds. It run short and I couldn’t reach the bracket screw hole with the gasket screw hole so I left it loose. Everything seems to work fine. But I guess it is there for some reason so I am a bit uneasy….

I’ve never gotten this rubber piece on without it ripping . I’ve never had a problem with the operation of the phone upon reassembly. I wouldn’t worry about it.

A little bit of heat and gentle, patient tugging from both directions with my tweezers got the gasket out whole (although from the sounds of the other comments it is not important).

Reassembly of this stage took me two goes to get right. Take care to ensure that the speaker connecter strip is properly aligned over the pegs.

As you apply pressure on the screw it bends the clips in slightly binding the screws, I found placing my thumb nail on the back of the screw to counter the pressure required to screw them in/out prevents the binding and they glide right out.

“1.5 cm” Needs to be changed to 1.5mm

Mr. Meinhart. 1.5 cm is right as it refers to the distance from the edge of the screen to where the screw is. It does not refer to the size of it.

These screws are 100% impossible to remove. I have applied as much pressure as I can without completely destroying the component but nothing has worked. I know I have the correct size driver too. This is beyond frustrating. The 4 screws that are left in are now stripped. Any ideas would be very appreciated.

On two of these I have stripped the head out because Apple over-torqued them at the factory. Now I have to either cut the whole clip off or else take it to the garage and use a tiny drill bit to try and drill the head off the screw. Surely nothing will go wrong when a 10-amp drill touches the screen, right??

Note the the screw that is 1.5cm from the right is smaller in diameter than the other 6 (it is the same length)

I used WD40 on these damned screws and it helped. Putting the screen vertically on the edge of the table while removing them also helped.

I hooked the display over the side of my table to support these 6 screw tabs from bellow and they were fairly easy to remove from my late in the run 6s (maybe the factory quit torquing them so hard?) Also, I had a small washer under the last screw 1.5 cm from the edge. Almost lost it since I wasn’t watching for it.

There were two screws which I couldn’t remove no matter what. I was forced to rip apart the metal with pliers until the screw was forced off. This took literally an hour to do. So annoyed.

Be carefull when you unscrew the orange one near the frontal camera slot, i did it verrrrrrry gently but the screw and part of the EMI’screen just fall apart! do it like if you were tring to pet an ant!

the screw at the side is not 1,5mm ! its 1,33mm - 1,34mm ! thx

There's a 7th screw on the EMI shield right by the camera.