Google Pixel Fold Inner Screen Assembly Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 2

Google Pixel Fold Inner Screen Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

126

Time Required

3 - 4 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the inner screen assembly in your Google Pixel Fold.

The inner screen assembly is composed of the inner screen, fingerprint sensor, and volume button pre-installed in a new frame. This repair requires you to transfer all of the internal components into the assembly.

Note: Some photos in this guide were taken at different states of disassembly. Any visual discrepancies won't affect the guide procedure.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.
Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.

Step 2

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
Press firmly to eject the SIM card tray.

Step 3

Lay the phone down on a clean, smooth surface so the back glass is facing up.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the back glass for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the displays and/or internal batteries, so proceed with care.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Unfold your phone completely and slide the Anti-Clamp arms over the left edge of the back glass, below the Google "G" logo.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Make sure the suction cup on the inner screen isn't touching the bezel, as it won't stick properly.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface. If the glass if cracked, use packing tape to help the suction cups adhere.

Step 5

Place an object under your phone, like a box or a stack of books, so it rests level while between the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, detach the suction cups and realign the arms.

Step 6

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the back glass.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next step.

Step 7

Apply a suction cup to the back glass, as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
If your back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken back glass.

Step 8

Don’t insert the opening pick deeper than 3.5 mm when separating the back glass adhesive, as you risk damaging internal components.
Slide the opening pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the bottom left corner before continuing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back glass for two minutes.

Step 10

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 11

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner.
Slide the opening pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the back glass for two minutes.

Step 13

Rotate the opening pick around the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 14

Insert a third opening pick in the top left corner.
Slide the opening pick toward the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 15

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the back glass for two minutes.

Step 16

This sharp corner is very fragile. Use plenty of heat and be very gentle around the corner during this step.
Angle your pick so it's as flat as possible to the back glass.
Rotate the opening pick around the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 17

Insert a fourth opening pick in the top right corner.
Slide the opening pick toward the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 18

This sharp corner is very fragile. Use plenty of heat and be very gentle around the corner during this step.
Angle your pick so it's as flat as possible to the back glass.
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 19

Don't fully remove the back glass yet, as it's still connected to the phone by a cable.
At this point, the back glass should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges, use an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.
Swing the left edge of the back glass up and over the right edge of the phone.
Lay the back glass to the right side of the phone before continuing.

Step 20

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
While the Pixel Fold uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits also work. Use the same size or one size larger (T3 or T4 Torx bits with 3IP Torx Plus screws) and apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to remove the two 2.8 mm‑long screws securing the middle bracket.

Step 21

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the middle bracket toward the left edge of the phone and release its clip.
Remove the middle bracket.
During reassembly, reinsert the middle bracket clip under its slot in the frame before aligning the screw holes.

Step 22

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass cable from the motherboard.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 23

Remove the back glass.

Step 24

During reassembly:
If you're reusing your back glass, use tweezers to remove big chunks of adhesive from the perimeter of the back glass.
Repeat for any adhesive on the frame.
Use isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and a lint-free cloth to remove any remaining adhesive residue.
Follow this guide to replace the back glass adhesive with custom cut strips.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the back glass to the frame.

Step 25

The graphite sheet is very fragile. Be gentle peeling the graphite sheet in this step, especially if you're reusing it.
The graphite sheet is lightly adhered to the logic board.
Peel the bottom of the graphite sheet toward the top of the phone until you can access the bottom bracket.
Use your hands, or tape with light adhesive, to keep the graphite sheet out of the way.
During reassembly:
If you completely removed your graphite sheet, follow this guide to replace it.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips for the antenna, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the graphite sheet to the logic board.

Step 26

Use tweezers, or a clean fingernail, to pull the black screw cover off the top screw on the bottom bracket.

Step 27

Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to remove the five 3.1 mm‑long screws securing the bottom bracket.

Step 28

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the bottom bracket toward the bottom edge of the phone and release its clip.
Remove the bottom bracket.
During reassembly, reinsert the bottom bracket clip under its slot in the logic board before aligning its screw holes.

Step 29

There are two batteries you need to disconnect, one for each half of the phone.
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the base battery cable press connector.

Step 30

Peel the grey conductive tape off the bottom interconnect cable.

Step 31

Use a point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flip battery and bottom interconnect press connectors.
You have to disconnect both cables to keep the battery connector from accidentally touching the logic board.

Step 32

During reassembly, the next two steps demonstrate how to replace the flip battery and bottom interconnect cable conductive tape.
Peel off the new conductive tape from its liner and apply the sticky side to the bottom interconnect connector, making sure to bridge the logic board.

Step 33

Use a spudger, or your fingers, to press down the conductive tape and adhere it.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull on the tab and expose the tape.

Step 34

If your graphite sheet is taped out of the way, remove the tape now.
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the ultra wideband antenna press connector.

Step 35

The ultra wideband antenna is lightly adhered to the graphite sheet.
Slide an opening pick under the antenna to separate its adhesive.

Step 36

Peel up the ultra wideband antenna and remove it.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still sticky and intact, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace it.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the antenna to the logic board.

Step 37

Slide an opening pick under the top of the graphite sheet to separate the thermal insulator adhesive.

Step 38

Peel the graphite sheet off the logic board to separate the remaining adhesive.
Remove the graphite sheet.

Step 39

If there's any remaining adhesive, use tweezers to peel it off the logic board.

Step 40

Don't pry against the battery with the spudger, as you risk damaging it.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the battery and the bottom speaker.
Twist the spudger to separate the adhesive securing the bottom speaker.
Remove the bottom speaker.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the speaker to the frame.

Step 41

Be careful during this step, as you risk breaking the small surface-mounted components on the logic board. Avoid prying against the logic board.
Use the point of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor press connector.

Step 42

Peel off the tape covering the top interconnect cable.

Step 43

During reassembly, perform the following to replace the conductive tape:
Peel off the new conductive tape from its liner and apply the sticky side to the press connector, making sure to bridge the logic board.
Use a spudger, or your fingers, to press down the conductive tape and adhere it.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull on the tab and expose the tape.

Step 44

Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to remove the two screws securing the top interconnect cable:
One 2.8 mm‑long screw
One 2.5 mm‑long screw

Step 45

The metal bracket securing the connector is part of the press connector itself. Don’t try to remove the bracket from the connector.
Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top interconnect cable press connector.

Step 46

Be careful during this step, as you risk breaking the small surface-mounted components on the logic board. Avoid prying against the logic board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the inner screen press connector.
Move the inner screen cable up 90° over the right edge of the phone before continuing.

Step 47

Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to remove the two 2.8 mm‑long screws securing the middle bracket.

Step 48

Pull the top bracket toward the left edge of the phone to release its clips.
Remove the top bracket.
During reassembly, insert the top bracket clips under their slots in the frame before aligning the screw holes.

Step 49

The 5G mmWave antenna is lightly adhered to the frame.
Insert the point of a spudger between the frame and the right edge of the 5G mmWave antenna.
Pry up to separate the adhesive.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the antenna to the frame.

Step 50

Insert the point of a spudger under the bottom right corner of the front camera press connector.
Don't insert the spudger anywhere else, as you risk breaking surface-mounted components on the logic board.
Pry up and disconnect the front camera press connector.

Step 51

The front camera is adhered to the frame.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the front camera for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun, but be careful not to overheat the phone. Don't concentrate the heat on a single spot.

Step 52

Use tweezers to grab the front camera by its connector, as close to the camera body as possible.
Don't pinch the press connector's pins, as you may bend them.
Pull straight up to separate the adhesive and remove the front camera.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the front camera to the frame.

Step 53

Use a Torx Plus 3IP driver to remove the two screws securing the logic board:
One 2.8 mm‑long screw near the top left corner
One 2.5 mm‑long screw near bottom right corner

Step 54

Use tape with light adhesive, such as painter's tape, to keep the three cables out of the way before continuing:
Fingerprint sensor cable
Top interconnect cable
Inner screen cable
Don't fold the cables at a sharp angle, as you can crease the cable.

Step 55

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top of the logic board, near the front camera recess.
Pry up to release the logic board from its upper alignment peg.

Step 56

Be very careful during this step, as the logic board is fragile and has many cutouts in the frame. Go slowly, and don’t yank the logic board if it feels stuck.
Grip the top of the logic board with your fingers.
Lift the logic board upward while pulling it gently toward the right edge of the phone to release the bottom clip.
You'll feel some resistance from the white logic board bracket. Lift slowly until it clears its slot in the frame.
You'll also feel some resistance from the thermal paste bonding the logic board to the frame.
Once the clip is released, lift straight up to remove the logic board from its lower alignment peg.
Remove the logic board.

Step 57

During reassembly, perform the following to clean the thermal paste:
Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste on the bottom of the logic board.
Clean any remaining thermal paste residue with isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the frame.
During reassembly, follow this guide to reapply thermal paste to your device.
When applying new thermal paste, use the flat end of a spudger to spread it evenly across the logic board. Try to match the original spread.

Step 58

The next four steps will demonstrate how to reinstall the logic board.
Insert the USB-C port into its cutout in the frame at a shallow angle.
Use your finger to press the USB-C port down until the orange rubber gasket is level with its cutout—not twisted or pinched.
Press the bottom of the logic board over its lower alignment peg and engage its spring connectors.

Step 59

While pushing the logic board toward the bottom edge of the phone, press the logic board into its lower metal clip.

Step 60

Press down on the white logic board bracket so it rests under the lip in the frame's edge.

Step 61

Make sure all of the cables are above the logic board before securing it back into the frame. If you haven't taped them, do so now to avoid trapping them as you work.
While pressing down on the white logic board bracket, push the logic board against the left edge of the phone.
Position the logic board over the upper alignment peg.
Press down to secure the logic board.

Step 62

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the base vibrator for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the displays and/or internal batteries, so proceed with care.

Step 63

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the bottom of the vibrator and the frame.
Twist the spudger to create a gap.
Push the flat end of the spudger into the gap.

Step 64

Pry up and separate the base vibrator adhesive.
Remove the base vibrator.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive with custom cut strips.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the vibrator to the frame.

Step 65

Move the flip battery and bottom interconnect cable away from the battery.
Be careful to not crease the cable. Give the cable some slack to avoid straining it.
Use tape with light adhesive, like painter's tape, to secure the cable to the side of the phone.

Step 66

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with sharp tools—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the clear plastic pull tabs away from the battery.

Step 67

Unfold the phone and flip it over.
Heat an iOpener and apply it the section of the inner screen above the base battery for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the displays and/or internal batteries, so proceed with care.

Step 68

The battery adhesive is extremely strong. Be careful when pulling on the battery and reapply heat if necessary to avoid bending the battery.
Close your phone.
Grip the ends of the plastic pull tabs with your fingers.
Pull straight up with constant, steady force to separate the adhesive under the battery. Work slowly and let time do the work for you until the adhesive separates.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, apply more heat and try again.
If you're having a lot of trouble separating the adhesive, or if you feel like you might damage the battery, follow the next five steps for an alternate method. If you were successful, jump to this step.

Step 69

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol in the gap between the frame and the left edge of the battery.

Step 70

Tilt the left side of the phone up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery.
Wait one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 71

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Apply a suction cup to the battery, as close to the center of the left edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the battery and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 72

Rotate the opening pick so its long edge sits in the gap.

Step 73

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force while also prying up with the opening pick to separate the battery from the frame.
If you're feeling a lot of resistance, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.
Depending on the condition of your adhesive, you might need to repeat the alcohol and prying cycle a few times before the battery adhesive yields.

Step 74

Lift the battery out of its recess and remove it.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, then you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive with custom cut strips.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the battery to the frame.

Step 75

Flip over your phone so the outer screen is facing up.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 76

While you're waiting for the adhesive to soften, note the following:
The adhesive is under the dark black border surrounding the screen.
During this screen removal procedure, you only need to insert your opening pick as deep as the border.
Don't insert your pick any deeper, as you risk damaging the screen and internal components.

Step 77

Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
If your screen is badly cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, you can pull using very strong tape instead of a suction cup. If all else fails, try supergluing the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 78

Slide the opening pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the bottom right corner before continuing.

Step 79

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 80

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 81

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom right corner.
Slide the opening pick toward the top right corner to separate the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner before continuing.

Step 82

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 83

Rotate the opening pick around the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 84

Insert a third opening pick in the top right corner.
Slide the opening pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 85

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

Step 86

This sharp corner is very fragile. Use plenty of heat and be very gentle around the corner during this step.
Angle your pick so it's as flat as possible to the screen.
Rotate the opening pick around the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 87

Insert a fourth opening pick in the top left corner.
Slide the opening pick toward the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 88

This sharp corner is very fragile. Use plenty of heat and be very gentle around the corner during this step.
Angle your pick so it's as flat as possible to the screen.
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 89

Adhesive information:
There's a small adhesive strip that secures the screen near the top right corner of the phone.
The next three steps will show you how to separate this adhesive.

Step 90

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top right corner of the screen for two minutes.

Step 91

Insert an opening pick under the right edge of the screen, near the top right corner.
Push the opening pick under the screen as far you can go without losing your grip.

Step 92

Be very careful during this step, as you risk breaking the screen. Work slowly and apply more heat if necessary.
Twist or "wiggle" the opening pick back and forth to separate the adhesive.
If you don't feel the adhesive separating, apply more heat or insert the pick at a different angle.

Step 93

Don't remove the screen yet, as it's still connected to the phone by a cable.
At this point, the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges, use an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.
Swing the left edge of the screen up and over the right edge of the phone.
Let the screen rest next to the phone before continuing.

Step 94

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the five 2.5 mm‑long screws securing the bottom bracket.

Step 95

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the bottom bracket.
During reassembly, make sure the bottom bracket is sitting in its two alignment pegs before refastening it.

Step 96

Don't pry against the battery during this step. Angle your spudger under the left or right edges of the press connector.
Use the flat end of spudger to pry up and disconnect the flip battery press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 97

Insert the point of a spudger under the bottom edge of the screen press connector.
Don't insert your spudger anywhere else, as you risk damaging surface-mounted components on the logic board.
Pry up to disconnect the screen press connector.

Step 98

Remove the screen.

Step 99

During reassembly:
If you're reusing your screen, use tweezers to remove big chunks of adhesive from the perimeter of the screen.
Repeat for any adhesive on the frame, including the small adhesive at the top right of the phone.
If your top right adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it.
Use isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and a lint-free cloth to remove any remaining adhesive residue.
Follow this guide to replace your screen adhesive.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the screen to the frame.

Step 100

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the bottom interconnect cable press connector.

Step 101

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the 2.2 mm‑long screw securing the lower board.
There's a magnet at the bottom right corner of phone. As you remove the nearby screw, it might stick to the magnet.
If you're having trouble inserting the screw, use tweezers to hold it in place while you screw in the first few threads.

Step 102

During the next step, keep the bottom interconnect cable out of the way using your hands or tape with light adhesive.

Step 103

Use a spudger to pry up the lower board from its recess in the frame.
Remove the lower board.

Step 104

During reassembly, perform the following to secure the lower board:
Slide the left edge of the board into its left alignment peg.
Position the right edge of the board over its right alignment peg.
Push down to engage the spring connectors and secure the lower board.

Step 105

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the three 2.5 mm‑long screws securing the top bracket.
There's a magnet at the top right corner of phone. As you remove nearby screws, they might stick the magnet.
If you're having trouble inserting these screws, use tweezers to hold it in place while you screw in the first few threads.

Step 106

The flip vibrator is attached to the underside of the top bracket.
Pull the top bracket toward the left edge of the phone to separate it from its recess in the frame.
Remove the top bracket.
During reassembly, insert the right edge of the top bracket under its lip in the frame before aligning the screw holes.

Step 107

Don't pry against the battery with the spudger, as you risk damaging it.
The top speaker is lightly adhered to the frame.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the battery and the bottom edge of the top speaker.
Twist the spudger to separate the adhesive securing the bottom speaker.
Remove the top speaker.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the speaker to the frame.

Step 108

Use the flat end of spudger to pry up and disconnect the top interconnect cable press connector.

Step 109

Pull the upper board toward the bottom of the phone to separate it from its recess in the frame
Remove the upper board.
During reassembly, make sure the upper board sits in its alignment peg before securing anything to it.

Step 110

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the bottom of the detune board.
Twist the spudger to separate the board from its metal clip.
Remove the detune board.

Step 111

During reassembly, perform the following to secure the detune board:
Angle the detune board downward against the right edge of the frame.
Press the board against the right edge of the frame to engage its spring connector.
Press downward to slot the board into its clip and secure it to the frame.

Step 112

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the earpiece speaker for two minutes.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the displays and/or internal batteries, so proceed with care.

Step 113

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the frame and the bottom of the earpiece speaker.
Twist the spudger to separate the adhesive under the body of the earpiece speaker.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, you can also use an opening pick to slide under the speaker.

Step 114

The earpiece speaker connector is mildly adhered to the frame.
Grab the right edge of the earpiece speaker and pull it away from the frame to separate the connector adhesive.
If you're feeling a lot of resistance, apply heat and try again.
Remove the earpiece speaker.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive with custom cut strips.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the speaker to the frame.

Step 115

The battery cable is lightly adhered to the frame.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the battery cable for two minutes.

Step 116

Slide an opening pick under the battery cable to separate the adhesive.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to move the battery cable upward to expose the stretch-release adhesive tab under it.

Step 117

Six stretch release adhesive strips secure the battery to the frame:
The three along the left edge are very difficult to remove. Work slowly and avoid pulling the strips at steep angles.
The three along the bottom are moderately difficult to remove.

Step 118

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with sharp tools—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Use tweezers to peel the black pull tabs from off the frame so you can grip them with your fingers.
Some of the black tabs aren't adhered and don't require peeling.

Step 119

Pull each strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give them plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
You can also wrap an adhesive strip around a spudger and "roll" it for a more consistent pull.
If any adhesive strips break off, try to retrieve them using your fingers or tweezers, and continue pulling—but don’t pry under the battery.
If you can't retrieve a strip, don't worry! Remove as much adhesive as possible and move to the next step for an alternate method.
Repeat for all six stretch release adhesive strips.

Step 120

If all six of the stretch release adhesive strips separated cleanly, skip the next five steps. Otherwise, follow these steps for an alternate method.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol in the gap between the frame and the left edge of the battery.

Step 121

Tilt the left side of the phone up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery.
Wait one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 122

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Apply a suction cup to the battery, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the battery and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 123

Rotate the opening pick so its long edge sits in the gap.

Step 124

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force while also prying up with the opening pick to separate the battery from the frame.
If you're feeling a lot of resistance, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.
Depending on the condition of your adhesive, you might need to repeat the alcohol and prying cycle a few times before the battery adhesive yields.

Step 125

If your bottom interconnect cable is still taped down, remove the tape now.
Lift the battery out its recess and remove it.
During reassembly, if your adhesive is still intact and sticky, you can reuse it. Otherwise, follow this guide to replace the adhesive with custom cut strips.
If you don't have custom cut adhesive strips, use double-sided tape, like Tesa Tape, to secure the battery to the frame.

Step 126

You're now left with the inner screen assembly.
Before transferring the internals to your new part, check your old inner screen assembly for any leftover components not present in your new part.

Conclusion

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

To run a diagnostics test with the built-in Pixel Diagnostic tool, click here.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Google Pixel Fold Answers Community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

151892 Reputation

2 comments

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

good lord

i thought apple was bad

but 126 steps??????!!??!???

shingle -

"Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, befolge diese Anweisungen in umgekehrter Reihenfolge."

Diese Anmerkung ist eine Zumutung!

Bei einer solch komplexen Reparatur hätte ich erwartet, dass der ZUSAMMENBAU, dh. das Einfügen der ausgebauten Teile in die neue Displayeinheit genauso ausführlich beschrieben wird ("Step By Step") wie der Ausbau der Komponenten.

Ausserdem fehlen beim Reparaturset 2 wesentliche Teile, nämlich die leitfähigen Klebebänder (Schritte 32 und 43). Im Prinzip sind das "Cent-Artikel*, die nicht im Reparaturset von sage und schreibe 900 € enthalten waren! Ich musste daher die doch langwierige Reparatur (ca. 4h) an dieser Stelle abbrechen und warte jetzt auf die nachträglich bestellten Artikel von knapp 10 €. Das ist extrem ärgerlich.

Ansonsten ist die Reparaturanleitung wirklich sehr gut beschreiben, die Durchführung mit einem einigermassen handwerklichen Geschick auch machbar. Es braucht Geduld, insbesondere beim Trennen der verklebten Glasrückwand und des äusseren Displays.

Hardy -