Steam Deck OLED Front Shell Replacement

Step 1

Turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs, as a charged lithium-ion polymer battery can be dangerous if accidentally punctured.
As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.
Power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.
If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck. If you attempt to remove the back cover with it still installed, it could snap right in half.
During your repair, it can be helpful at times to lay the Steam Deck face-down in its case to protect the thumbsticks and prevent wobble.

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 3

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the screen for one minute.
You may also use a hair dryer or heat gun, but be careful not to overheat the device, as the screen, battery, and plastic frame are all susceptible to heat damage.

Step 4

Apply a suction handle to the top left corner of the screen, as close to the top edge as possible.
If your display is badly cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere. Alternatively, you can pull using very strong tape instead of a suction cup. If all else fails, try supergluing the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 5

Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) to avoid damaging the screen panel, ambient light sensor, or sensor cable.

Step 6

Pull up on the nub on the back of the suction handle to remove it from the screen.

Step 7

As you slice through the adhesive securing the screen, note the following:
Along the top and bottom edges, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) to avoid damaging the sensors, sensors cable, or screen cable.
Along the left and right edges, don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm (~1/5 of an inch) to avoid damaging the screen panel.

Step 8

Rotate the pick so its flat edge is between the screen and frame.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) along the top edge.
Insert another pick in the top left corner.
Slide the pick toward the power button to separate the adhesive securing the top edge of the screen.

Step 10

Rotate the pick so its flat edge is between the screen and frame.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Heat the right edge of the screen for one minute.

Step 12

Don't insert your pick deeper than 5 mm (~1/5 of an inch) along the right edge.
Insert another pick just below the right thumbstick.
Slide the pick to the bottom right corner to separate the right edge adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Heat the bottom edge of the screen for one minute.

Step 14

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm (~1/8 of an inch) along the bottom edge.
Insert another pick in bottom right corner along the bottom edge.
Slide the pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom edge adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Grip the two picks along the top edge.
Pry up to lift the top edge of the screen away from the frame until you can grab it.
If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter and check for missed sections of adhesive. If you're using a hair dryer, use it to lightly heat the stuck sections of adhesive.

Step 16

Be gentle with the screen, as straining its cable may damage the socket on the motherboard.
Flip the screen over the bottom edge of the frame.
Prop up the screen with a small box or book roughly 2.5 cm (~1 inch) thick.
If you don't have a box or book nearby, hold the screen in this position for the next two steps.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the locking flap on the outside edge of the screen ZIF connector.
Don't touch any of the small surface-mounted components around the connector.

Step 18

Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the screen cable pull tab and slide the cable straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 19

Remove the screen.
To apply adhesive and install your screen, follow this guide.

Step 20

Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the eight 5.8 mm‑long screws securing the back cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 21

Insert an opening pick at an upward angle between the back cover and the front shell near one of the triggers.
If you can't insert your pick here, try along the top or bottom edges of the Steam Deck OLED before sliding it toward the handle.
Slide your pick along the edge of the handle to release the clips securing it to the front shell.

Step 22

Reinsert your pick and slide it along the top and bottom edges until the back cover feels loose.

Step 23

Grip the unclipped handle and pull it away from the front shell to release the remaining clips.
Remove the back cover.

Step 24

Grip the battery cable pull tab, located to the left of the battery.
Firmly pull the battery cable straight away from the motherboard shield (toward the battery) to disconnect it.
This bundled cable is fairly stiff. If you're having trouble, re-grip the pull tab close to the head of the connector and gently walk it side-to-side as you pull.
If the cable pull-tab feels fragile or rips during this process, remove the motherboard shield and disconnect the cable using a spudger.
When the battery cable comes free, it might push up on the motherboard shield. Don't worry, as this won't damage anything.

The pull tab can come off revealing the wires. The instructions should be updated to reflect that catch.

Khurram Tariq -

Hallo,

gibt es die Abschirmung auch als Ersatzteil irgendwo zu kaufen?

Danke

Yannick B. -

Bad step. Remove the shield plate from the next step first then safely disconnect the battery. Using this type of pull force here made the pull tab peel away exposing the wires.

Jaspal Goshal -

Step 25

During disassembly, skip the next three steps.
During reassembly:
Reinstall the two 3.8 mm‑long screws to secure the motherboard shield.
Reconnect the interconnect cable ZIF connector.

Step 26

During reassembly:
Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the battery connector into its socket on the motherboard.

Step 27

During reassembly, follow this step and the above three steps to reconnect the battery.
Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the two 3.8 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard shield.
Lift the top edge of the motherboard shield up and flip it over the bottom edge of the frame, away from the motherboard.
Be careful not to crease or strain the cable.

Step 28

Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the left thumbstick ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled TS.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 29

Use a spudger to flip up the small white locking flap on the left button board interconnect cable ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled C‑L.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 30

Flip up the small black locking flap on the left thumbstick cable ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled DB.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 31

Flip up the small locking flap on the D‑pad ZIF connector, located in the top right corner.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled DPAD.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 32

Flip up the small locking flap on the touchpad board cable ZIF connector, located just below the previous one.
The pull tabs on the remaining ZIF connectors in this procedure may be labeled DB.
Lift the connector until its arms are free and slide it straight out to disconnect it.

Step 33

If you aren't replacing your button board, you can leave this cable connected and lay the board over the right side of the frame after you've removed the screws.
Be careful when disconnecting the haptics, as the cables and connector are very delicate. Pry only on the base of the white connector and not on the cables or socket.
Insert the point of your spudger under the neck of the haptics cable connector.
Gently pry up to disconnect it.

Step 34

Flip up the small locking flap on the touchpad board cable ZIF connector, located just below the haptics connector.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 35

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the left button board:
Two 5.9 mm‑long screws
One 3.8 mm‑long screw
One 4.9 mm‑long screw

Step 36

Insert the point of your spudger between the bottom right corner of the button board and the frame.
Pry up until you can grab the button board with your fingers.
Remove the button board.
During reassembly, make sure none of the five cables become trapped underneath the button board as you lay it into place.

Step 37

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the three 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the right thumbstick.
During reassembly, hold the Steam Deck OLED off your work surface so it doesn't rest on your thumbstick as you tighten the screws.

Step 38

Grip the edges of the thumbstick board and rotate it counterclockwise to clear the trigger.
Remove the thumbstick.

Step 39

The left trigger is on your right-hand side when working on the Steam Deck OLED, as it's laying upside down.
The trigger clips into place on two pegs on the frame, which double as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's left clip.
Use your fingers to push the trigger toward the left as you wedge the spudger between the clip and the peg.
Use your spudger to pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the right peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the left peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 40

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the three 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the left bumper assembly.

Step 41

Grip the left arm of the bumper assembly and lift it off its alignment pegs.
Slide the assembly to the left to clear the tab on the right edge of the frame.
Remove the assembly.
The D-pad and view buttons membrane might stay stuck to the underside of the bumper bracket. If so, remove it.
During reassembly, line up the bumper bracket with the alignment posts in the frame as you set it into place.

Step 42

If the D-pad and view buttons membrane stayed on the bumper bracket, skip this step.
Remove the D-pad and view button membrane from the frame.

Step 43

Use tweezers to remove the D-pad.
The left edge of the D-Pad is shorter than the other edges. During reassembly, orient the D-pad so that the left edge faces to the left, closest to the outside edge of the frame.

Step 44

Use tweezers to remove the Steam button membrane.

Step 45

Remove the Steam button.
This button is keyed so it only fits in its recess in the correct orientation.

Step 46

Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the right thumbstick ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled TS.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 47

Use a spudger to flip up the small white locking flap on the right button board interconnect cable ZIF connector.
The pull tab on this connector may be labeled C‑R.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket to disconnect it.
During reassembly, don't reconnect this cable yet. You'll reconnect it later.

Step 48

Flip up the small black locking flap on the right thumbstick cable ZIF connector.
The pull tabs on the remaining ZIF connectors in this procedure may be labeled DB.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 49

Flip up the small locking flap on the button board cable ZIF connector, located in the bottom left corner.
Slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 50

Repeat the ZIF cable disconnection procedure for the remaining three ZIF connectors:
The touchpad cable
The touchpad board cable
You may need to lift this cable as you pull to free its arms.
The action buttons and menu button cable

Step 51

If you aren't replacing your button board, you can leave this cable connected and lay the board over the left side of the frame after you've removed the screws.
Be careful when disconnecting the haptics, as the cables and connector are very delicate. Pry only on the base of the white connector, and not on the cables or socket.
Insert the point of your spudger under the neck of the haptics cable connector.
Gently pry up to disconnect it.

Step 52

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the right button board:
Two 5.9 mm‑long screws
One 3.8 mm‑long screw
One 4.9 mm‑long screw

Step 53

Insert the point of your spudger between the bottom left corner of the button board and the frame.
Pry up until you can grab the button board with your fingers.
Remove the button board.
During reassembly, make sure none of the six cables become trapped underneath the button board as you lay it into place.

Step 54

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the three 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the right thumbstick.
During reassembly, hold the Steam Deck OLED off your work surface so it doesn't rest on your thumbstick as you tighten the screws.

Step 55

Grip the edges of the thumbstick board and rotate it clockwise to clear the trigger.
Remove the thumbstick.

Step 56

The right trigger is on your left-hand side when working on the Steam Deck OLED, as it's laying upside down.
The trigger clips into place on two pegs on the frame, which double as the hinge.
Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's right clip.
Use your fingers to push the trigger toward the right as you wedge the spudger between the clip and the peg.
Use your spudger to pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
During reassembly, latch the left peg first. Once in place, push down on the trigger to latch the right peg, producing an audible "click" sound.
Check to make sure that the trigger spring is properly aligned. Test the trigger action before continuing reassembly.

Step 57

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the three 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the right bumper assembly.

Step 58

Grip the right arm of the bumper assembly and lift it off the alignment pegs.
Slide the assembly to the right to clear the tab on the left edge of the frame.
Remove the assembly.
The action and menu buttons membrane might stay stuck to the underside of the bumper bracket. If so, remove it.
During reassembly, line up the bumper bracket with the alignment posts in the frame as you set it into place.

Step 59

If the action and menu buttons membrane stayed on the bumper bracket, skip this step.
Remove the action and menu buttons membrane from the frame.

Step 60

Use tweezers to remove the four action buttons, A, B, X, and Y.
During reassembly, don't worry! The buttons are keyed—they can only be reinstalled in one orientation.

Step 61

Use tweezers to remove the quick access button membrane.

Step 62

Use tweezers to remove the quick access button.
This button is keyed so it only fits in its recess in the correct orientation.

Step 63

Use tweezers to remove the menu button.

Step 64

Use tweezers to remove the view button.

Step 65

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four 5 mm‑long screws securing the right touchpad board.

Step 66

Use your fingers to remove the right touchpad board.

Step 67

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four 6 mm‑long screws securing the right touchpad.

Step 68

Remove the right touchpad.
If you're having trouble removing the touchpad, lift the edge of the Steam Deck OLED and push the touchpad through from the front.

Step 69

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four 5 mm‑long screws securing the left touchpad board.

Step 70

Use your fingers to remove the left touchpad board.

Step 71

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the four 6 mm‑long screws securing the left touchpad.

Step 72

Remove the left touchpad.
If you're having trouble removing the touchpad, lift the edge of the Steam Deck OLED and push the touchpad through from the front.

Step 73

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the two 3.8 mm‑long screws securing the top left and bottom left corners of the motherboard shield.

Step 74

Lift the top edge of the motherboard shield up and flip it over to the right of the motherboard, over the battery.
Be careful not to crease or strain the cable.

Step 75

Use an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the black sticker connecting the heat sink to the fan.

Step 76

Try not to tear the heat sink sticker, as you'll reuse it during reassembly.
Slide the tip of an opening pick under one edge of the heat sink sticker.
Peel the sticker up until you can grab it with your fingers.
Gently remove the sticker from the heat sink and fan.
During reassembly, place the sticker back in its original location. The residual adhesive should stick well.
If the residual adhesive isn't sticky anymore, tape the outside edges of the sticker to the heat sink and fan with small strips of tape.

Step 77

Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the three 3.3 mm‑long screws securing the heat sink.
During reassembly, install the screws in the order marked on the heat sink mounts: 1, 2, then 3.

Step 78

Lift the heat sink from the motherboard and remove it.
Depending on the age of your device, this might require some force. A twisting motion may help loosen the thermal paste.
Before reinstalling the heat sink, follow this guide to clean the heat sink and APU and reapply thermal paste.

Step 79

Use the point of your spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the audio board ZIF connector in the upper right corner of the motherboard.
Use tweezers or your fingers to grip the cable's pull tab and pull it straight out of its socket to disconnect it.

Step 80

Use your fingers or a spudger to gently lift the white locking tab on the audio board socket to release the cable.
Avoid bending the socket against the board—if you can't get your tool underneath, push up on alternating sides of the tab to lift it.
During reassembly, gently press down on the locking tab to secure the cable.

Step 81

Use tweezers or your fingers to pull the audio board cable out of its socket to disconnect it.
With the locking tab released, the cable will slide out with little to no resistance. If it doesn't, check that the white locking tab is fully released.
During reassembly, ensure that the locking tab is in its unlocked, lifted position before inserting the cable.

Step 82

Be careful not to damage the speaker mesh underneath the speaker.
Insert the flat end of your spudger between the right speaker and the frame.
Slowly pry up the speaker to separate the adhesive securing it.
If the speaker feels stubborn, lightly heat it using a hair dryer.
During reassembly, make sure that the speaker mesh lays flat against the frame before reinstalling your speakers.

Step 83

Be careful not to damage the speaker mesh underneath the speaker.
Insert the flat end of your spudger between the left speaker and the frame.
Slowly pry up the speaker to separate the adhesive securing it.
If the speaker feels stubborn, lightly heat it with an iOpener or hair dryer.
During reassembly, make sure that the speaker mesh lays flat against the frame before reinstalling your speakers.

Step 84

Place the motherboard shield back onto the motherboard to protect it during the rest of the repair.
Optionally, you can secure the shield with its two 3.8 mm‑long screws to prevent it from falling off as you move the Steam Deck OLED.

Step 85

Lay a soft, clean cloth on your work surface.
While holding the motherboard shield in place, flip over your Steam Deck OLED and lay it screen-side-down onto the cloth.

Step 86

Insert the tip of an opening pick under the right-side ambient light sensor to separate it from the top right corner of the screen recess.
Lower your pick flat to the midframe and reinsert it under the metal tab located next to the ambient light sensor.
Be careful not to damage the cable or separate it from the underside of the metal tab—the adhesive is strong, and the cable is fragile.
Slide your pick under the tab to separate it from the midframe.
Don't insert your pick deeper than the width of the cable to avoid damaging it.

Step 87

Repeat the previous step to separate the left-side ambient light sensor and metal tab.
Remember to not insert your pick deeper than the width of the cable to avoid damaging it.

Step 88

Press the flat end of your spudger or your fingers through the bottom left cutout in the screen recess and separate the antenna from the front shell.
Only apply enough force to separate the antenna from the black plastic front shell and not the gray midframe. This doesn't require much force.
Repeat for the antenna in the bottom middle of the screen recess.

Step 89

Flip your Steam Deck OLED back over and lay it screen-side-down.
Use your T6 Torx driver to remove the six 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the midframe to the front shell.

Step 90

The midframe is almost free. The front shell secures it with clips, alignment posts, and ports along the top edge.
Rotate the device so the power button is closest to you.
Grip the bottom arms of the midframe and brace your other fingers against the front shell.
Use your fingers to pry the bottom edge of the midframe away from the front shell.
If you feel resistance, the antennas have re-adhered to the front shell. Be gentle and stop prying to check the antennas, if necessary.
It may be helpful to stand the Steam Deck OLED on its top edge to see the antennas as you pry.

Step 91

Continue holding up the bottom right arm of the midframe with one hand.
With your other hand, pry the top edge of the front shell (near the volume buttons) away from the midframe.
Lift the top right corner of the midframe away from the front shell until the headphone jack comes free of its cutout.
If you feel resistance, either the front shell is caught on the midframe or the screen-side sensor cable is stuck to the midframe. Work slowly and inspect these areas as you pry.
During reassembly, squeeze the top edge of the front shell onto the midframe until it snaps into place.

Step 92

Don't lift the midframe all the way out, yet—the audio board cable prevents the midframe from lifting more than half of an inch (~1.25 cm).
Repeat the previous step for the top left corner of the midframe, prying the front shell (near the power button) away from the midframe as you lift the midframe about half an inch (~1.25 cm) up.
Remember to inspect the frame and the screen-side sensor cable if you feel resistance.
During reassembly, squeeze the top edge of the front shell onto the midframe until it snaps into place.

Step 93

Insert the flat end of your spudger against the audio board cable in the cutout in the midframe.
Hold the cable's pull tab clear of the cutout and lift the midframe over the cable.

Step 94

Remove the midframe.

Step 95

During reassembly, follow these instructions to align the front shell onto your midframe:
Flip the midframe over, screen-side-up.
Hook the top edge of your replacement front shell over the top edge of the midframe, aligning the buttons and ports with their cutouts.
Grip the right end of the audio board cable and thread it through its cutout in the midframe and over the motherboard. Use a spudger or tweezers to angle the cable away from the midframe as you thread it.
Ensure the left end of the audio board cable threads over the audio board and doesn't become trapped underneath.