Kobo Libra Colour Screen Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 0

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen in your Kobo Libra Colour eReader.

If your screen is cracked, unresponsive, or not lighting up, you may need to replace it.

The screen part comes with the display pre‑installed into the frame, so you'll need to transfer all the internals from your old device into the new screen.

Following this guide will remove your eReader's IP (Ingress Protection) rating, making it susceptible to water damage.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

After this repair, follow this guide to calibrate your eReader to your replacement screen. If you don't, you might experience "ghosting" or visual artifacts of the E ink.

Kobo supports their eReaders with a warranty. If your device is still under warranty, Kobo may be able to help. Before starting a repair, review your warranty information or check support documentation.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Drain your eReader's battery as much as possible before starting your repair. Ideally, it should be fully discharged.
Optionally, to drain the battery faster, navigate to More → Settings → Energy saving and privacy and set Automatically go to sleep after and Automatically power off after to Never.
When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery.
Unplug all cables and fully shut down your eReader.
Your screen should be black and say Powered off.

Step 2

Flip your eReader over so the screen is facing down.
Angle an opening pick straight down, and insert its tip under the top right corner of the back cover, near the power button.
Push downward and pry up with the pick until you feel it slide between one of the clips and the frame.
You may have to test a few spots along the corner until the pick slides between one of the clips.

Step 3

Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the right edge.

Step 4

Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom right corner to release its clips.
If you're having trouble, try twisting the pick to lift the corner clips out of their slots.

Step 5

Slide the pick toward the bottom left corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.

Step 6

At this point, you should be able to grip the back cover and release its remaining clips. If not, slide a pick under the perimeter of the back cover until you can grip an edge.
Grip the right edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.
Remove the back cover.
During reassembly, align the back cover over the eReader and press along the perimeter until all its clips snap back into place.

Step 7

The entire surface of the eReader's internals is covered in a thin, plastic-like waterproof coating. Keep the following in mind as you continue disassembly:
While this won't hurt your device, removing the coating compromises the device to potential water damage.
The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.
Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating from ZIF connectors and their cables.

Step 8

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
Don't pry against the motherboard, as you risk breaking small, surface-mounted components.
Your E-ink screen will continue to say Powered off even after disconnection—this is normal!

Step 9

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board at the top left corner for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 10

Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating off the ZIF connector's locking tab—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.

Step 11

Use pointed tweezers to peel off the coating around the locking tab and its hinge on the ZIF connector.
If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the power button board and try again.
This is a meticulous process! Failure to remove enough of the coating could damage the locking tab during disconnection, so take your time!

Step 12

Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the ZIF connector.
The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, remove more coating until the tab can move freely.

Step 13

The blue pull tab on the interconnect cable is lightly held in place by the coating.
Slide an arm of pointed tweezers under the blue pull tab on the interconnect cable to separate the coating.

Step 14

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grip the blue pull tab on the interconnect cable.
You can also use blunt nose tweezers to get a better grip on the pull tab.
Pull the cable away from the ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating and disconnect the cable.
If you're having trouble, try rocking the cable side-to-side while pulling, and reheat when necessary.

Step 15

If you aren't replacing the white interconnect cable skip to this step.
Apply a heated iOpener to the interconnect cable's ZIF connector on the motherboard for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 16

Scrape off and remove the coating on the interconnect cable ZIF connector located on the motherboard.

Step 17

Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the ZIF connector.
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to grip the blue pull tab on the interconnect cable and disconnect it.
During reassembly:
Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating, heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in the connector.

Step 18

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the eReader for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive under the interconnect cable.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 19

Hold one end of the interconnect cable and use your other hand to insert the tip of an opening pick underneath it.
Peel the cable away from the frame while sliding the pick in the same direction to separate the adhesive.
Work slowly to avoid creasing or folding cable, and reheat when necessary.
Remove the interconnect cable.

Step 20

The power button board is held in place with adhesive and aligned by two pegs in the frame.
Apply a heated iOpener to the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive underneath.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 21

Insert the tip of an opening pick under a corner of the power button board.
Slide the pick along the long edge of the power button board to separate its adhesive.

Step 22

Slide the opening pick under the center of the power button board and pry up separate the remaining adhesive.
Remove the power button board.
During reassembly, follow this guide to replace the adhesive for the power button board and the interconnect cable.

Step 23

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the battery cable away the motherboard and separate the coating.

Step 24

When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery! A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and catch fire.
If your battery comes with stretch release adhesive, follow the next two steps to remove them.
Otherwise, skip ahead two steps to remove the normal adhesive.

Step 25

Grip a black pull tab and pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
You can also wrap an adhesive strip around a spudger and "roll" it for a more consistent pull.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers and continue pulling—but don’t pry under the battery.
If you can't retrieve a strip, don't worry! Remove as much adhesive as possible and skip down two steps for an alternate method.

Step 26

The battery is still lightly held to the frame by the coating.
Insert the long side of an opening pick under different edges of the battery to separate the coating.
Don't bend or crease the battery! Make sure all of the coating is separated before removing the battery.
Remove the battery.

Step 27

The next five steps show how to remove the battery using isopropyl alcohol and a plastic card.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery closest to the white interconnect cable.

Step 28

Tilt the eReader up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery.
Wait one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Step 29

Slide a plastic card under the battery to separate the adhesive and the coating.
Don't bend or crease the battery! Avoid prying or lifting up with the plastic card.
If you're having trouble, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Step 30

Slide the plastic card under the opposite end of the battery to separate any remaining adhesive and coating.

Step 31

Lift the battery out of the frame and remove it.
If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.
Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, get a new one.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install a new battery or to transfer an old battery to a new screen.

Step 32

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the digitizer cable ZIF connectors for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 33

Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the ZIF connectors' black locking tabs—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.
Use pointed tweezers to peel off the coating around the black locking tabs and their hinges on the ZIF connector.
If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the connectors and try again.
This is a meticulous process! Failure to remove enough of the coating could damage the locking tab during disconnection, so take your time!

Step 34

Use the point of a spudger to lift up the locking tabs on the ZIF connectors.
The locking tabs should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, remove more coating until the tabs can move freely.

Step 35

Apply a heated iOpener to the digitizer cable ZIF connectors for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 36

Slide one arm of a pair of pointed tweezers underneath the cables to separate the coating securing them to the motherboard.
You only need to separate enough coating so you can grip the cables with blunt nose tweezers.

Step 37

Because of the awkward angle, this step requires some patience to avoid tearing the cables. Work slowly and apply heat regularly.
Use blunt nose tweezers to pull the cables away from their ZIF connectors slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating.
Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help get a tighter hold on the cables.
Keep pulling on the cables until they're completely disconnected.
During reassembly:
Inspect the ends of the cables and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating, heating the cable and the ZIF connectors when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cables sit properly in their connectors.

Step 38

Apply a heated iOpener to the display cable ZIF connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 39

The display cable ZIF connector is larger and requires a different procedure to disconnect properly.
Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the ZIF connector's black locking tab—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.

Step 40

Use pointed tweezers to peel off the coating around the locking tab and its hinge on the ZIF connector.
If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the connector and try again.
This is a meticulous process! Failure to remove enough of the coating could damage the locking tab during disconnection, so take your time!

Step 41

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry along the length of the locking tab to separate any remaining coating.
Don't pry hard at the corners of the locking tab to avoid snapping it.

Step 42

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the middle of the locking tab and lift to unlock it.
The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, remove more coating until the tab can move freely.

Step 43

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the corner of the display cable closest to the charging port.
Pull the cable away from the ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corner.
If you're having trouble, try rocking the cable side-to-side while pulling.
Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help with getting a tighter hold on the cable.

Step 44

Repeat the previous step for the other corner until the entire cable is disconnected.
Lift up the cable and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.
During reassembly:
Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating, heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in the connector.

Step 45

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard:
Four 2.4 mm‑long screws
Three 3.9 mm‑long screws

Step 46

Use a spudger to pry up the motherboard enough so you can grip it with your fingers.
Pull the motherboard toward the opposite side of the eReader to slide it out of its two clips.
Remove the motherboard.

Step 47

Apply a heated iOpener to the plastic motherboard buffer for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive securing it to the frame.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 48

Grip one end of the motherboard buffer and peel it away from the frame to separate the adhesive.
If you're having trouble, reheat the buffer for one minute before trying again.

Step 49

The front cover is secured with clips and adhesive.
Flip your eReader over so the screen is facing up.
Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the top edge of the front cover for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive underneath.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun for 30 seconds.

Step 50

Hold the eReader so your thumbs can push the underside of the front cover off its clips while your other fingers can pull the screen in the opposite direction.
Push the top left corner of the front cover while pulling the screen in the opposite direction to release the clips and separate the adhesive.
You'll hear and feel the adhesive slowly separate as you push on the front cover.
If you're having trouble, reheat the top edge for one minute before trying again.

Step 51

While keeping the corner of the front cover separated with one hand, use your other hand to peel the left edge of the front cover off the frame.

Step 52

Continue working around the perimeter of the front cover until all of the clips release and the adhesive is completely separated.
Heat the edges of the front cover when necessary.
The larger, rounded corners take more force to release their clips.

Step 53

Lift the front cover off the frame and remove it.
During reassembly, align the front cover over the frame and press down around the perimeter until the clips snap back into place.
If the adhesive isn't sticky anymore, you can use a thin double-sided tape like Tesa tape to replace it.

Step 54

Use tweezers to peel up the light sealing tape along the right edge of the screen enough to grip it with your fingers.

Step 55

Peel the light sealing tape off the button bracket and the screen.

Step 56

Remove the button board from the screen.
You've now disassembled your eReader enough to transfer the internals to your new screen.
During reassembly, perform the following:
Before you reinstall your front cover, follow this guide to transfer your motherboard, motherboard buffer, and button bracket to your new screen.
Follow this guide to calibrate your new screen.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Remember: after repairs, your eReader is no longer IPX8 waterproof.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Make sure each of your device's main functions still work, e.g., LED backlight, touch, page-turn buttons, Wi-Fi, etc.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

151892 Reputation

Kobo Libra Colour Screen Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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