Google Pixel 8a Vibration Motor Replacement

Written By: Spencer Day

Comments: 0

Google Pixel 8a Vibration Motor Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to replace the vibration motor, also known as the vibrator, in your Google Pixel 8a.

If your phone doesn't vibrate anymore, or the vibrations suddenly feel weaker, your vibration motor might need a replacement.

You'll need replacement back cover and flash unit adhesives to complete this repair.

Note: Any repair can compromise the water resistance of your phone. Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the back cover adhesive.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Let your Pixel's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Unplug all cables from your phone.
Completely power off your phone.
Press the power and volume up buttons at the same time to bring up the shutdown menu.

Step 2

Firmly press a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the left edge of your phone until the tray ejects.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 3

The back cover is secured with adhesive around the perimeter and near the cameras. To avoid damaging your phone's internals, note the following:
Unless stated otherwise, don't insert your tool more than 3 mm (the width of your opening tool's flat section) around the edges.
Don't insert your tool under the edges of the camera bump.

Step 4

Your opening tool has a flat end and a curved end. During the opening procedure, use the flat end and angle it so the tool's sharp edge points upward.
Insert the edge of an opening tool between the back cover and the frame, starting with a sharp corner of the tool to help separate the adhesive.

Step 5

Slide your opening tool along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive securing the back cover.

Step 6

Slide your opening tool around the bottom right corner and up the right edge, stopping at the bottom of the camera bump.
Remove your opening tool from under the back cover.

Step 7

Insert your opening tool under the top right corner of the back cover, just above the camera bump.
Slide your opening tool along the top edge, stopping at the top left corner just above the camera bump.
Remove your opening tool from under the back cover.

Step 8

Insert your opening tool under the left edge of the back cover, just below the camera bump.
Slide your opening tool down the left edge to separate the adhesive.

Step 9

A strip of adhesive above the camera bump secures the top edge of the back cover.
Insert an opening pick under the top left corner of the back cover until the tip is close to the top edge of the camera bump.
You can insert the opening pick more than 3 mm along the top edge.
Slide the pick to the right, stopping when you reach the right edge of the cameras.

Step 10

A final strip of adhesive below the camera bump secures the back cover.
Insert the flat edge of an opening pick under the back cover, just below the camera bump.
Insert a second opening pick in the same spot on the other side.

Step 11

Pry up simultaneously with both picks and apply constant pressure to separate the final piece of adhesive securing the back cover.
Be careful not to bend the back cover. If the adhesive feels stubborn, rotate the cover side-to-side to further loosen the adhesive.
If the adhesive isn't separating, you can lightly heat the back cover just below the camera bump with a hair dryer or iOpener to soften the adhesive.

Step 12

Remove the back cover.
During reassembly:
Now is a good time to test your phone before sealing it up. Power it on and check that it works. Power it back down before you continue reassembly.
Follow this guide to apply new adhesive and install your back cover.

Step 13

Use a hair dryer to heat the flash unit to soften the adhesive securing it to the logic board cover.
Alternatively, you can use an iOpener or heat gun to warm the flash.
Only heat the flash so it's warm to the touch. The battery and surrounding components are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 14

Slide your pick under the top edge of the flash and lift to separate the adhesive securing it to the cover.
Be careful not to slip and tear the flash cable, as it's very fragile.
During reassembly, follow this guide to replace the flash adhesives.

Step 15

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
While the Pixel 8a uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the 15 screws securing the logic board cover:
Thirteen 4.3 mm‑long screws
Two 1.9 mm‑long screws

Step 16

Be very careful not to damage the spring contacts around your phone's perimeter. Only insert your tool where instructed.
Insert an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the logic board cover and pry up to release the clip.
Insert the tip of a spudger under the notch near the top right corner of the logic board cover (just below the screw hole) and pry up to release the clip.

Step 17

Slowly lift the top edge of the logic board cover and thread the flash unit through its cutout.
During reassembly, thread the flash through its cutout as you lower the logic board cover into place.

Step 18

Remove the logic board cover (which has the wireless charging coil connected to it).

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the metal cover on the right edge of your phone.
During reassembly, place the upper left corner of the cover under the hook on the logic board before laying it into place.

Step 20

This guide was shot with the Verizon model (G8HHN) Google Pixel 8a, which has an extra cable and connector for the 5G mmWave antenna (just to the left of the battery connector). If you have the non-mmWave model, just skip any steps that mention the antenna cable.

Step 21

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right edge of the battery press connector and pry straight up to disconnect it.
To reconnect a press connector, align it over the socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. It might take a few tries to align the connector.
To prevent damaging the surface mounted components around the battery and 5G mmWave connectors, only pry where instructed.

Step 22

Insert the point of a spudger under the bottom edge of the 5G mmWave antenna press connector and pry straight up to disconnect it.

Step 23

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the 4.3 mm‑long screw securing the earpiece speaker to the frame.

Step 24

Lift the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and remove it.
When reinserting the speaker during reassembly, make sure the graphite film is out of the way. Then, insert the speaker at a downward angle and push it towards the front of the phone so the gasket goes into its cutout in the frame.

Step 25

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 4.3 mm‑long screws securing the antenna housing.

Step 26

Insert an opening pick under the left edge of the antenna housing and pry up to release the clips securing the housing.
Repeat the process on the top edge to release the remaining clips.
During reassembly, press firmly around the perimeter of the housing to engage its clips.

Step 27

Lift the antenna housing and remove it.

Step 28

Be careful not to touch the rear camera lenses during the next two steps.
Use the point of a spudger or your fingernail to pry up and disconnect the press connector just above the battery.

Step 29

Slide the tip of your opening pick under the right edge of the front-facing camera cable and lift to detach it.
If the pick can't slide under the cable, lightly heat the cable with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath.

Step 30

Move the battery and 5G mmWave cables out of the way of the battery.

Step 31

Be very careful not to damage the spring contacts on the edges of the logic board. Only insert your tool where instructed.
Insert the tip of a spudger under the notch near the top right corner of the logic board and pry up to unclip the board.
Repeat the process to unclip the other side of the board, using the notch to the left of the cameras.

Step 32

The logic board is delicate. Be careful not to bend it as you free the lower edge from the frame.
Before trying to remove the board, make sure you removed the SIM tray.
Lift the top edge of the logic board from the frame.
Pull the top edge of the logic board to the right of the frame so the cutouts of the board lift over the vibration motor and protrusions in the frame.
As you pull, guide the charging port out of its recess in the frame.
Don't fully remove the logic board yet, as it's still connected to the frame by the screen cable.
During reassembly, push the logic board toward the bottom of the frame and press the charging port down until the bottom edge sits flush with its protrusion in the frame.
Make sure the flash, front-facing camera, and press connector don't become trapped under the frame.

Step 33

The logic board might fall out of place during this step. Hold it steady, but avoid gripping it by any of the camera lenses or connectors.
Apply a suction handle to the left side of the screen with the handle facing down.
Prop up the left side of your phone so it stands upright.
If you don't have a suction handle, prop up the phone against a sturdy object, such as a heavy box or thick book.
Tilt the logic board down and lay it flat, gently guiding the delicate graphite sheet around the cables.
Be careful not to touch the thermal pads on the underside of the logic board.

Step 34

Be very careful not to puncture the battery during this step.
Hold one hand above the display bracket when prying it up, as the bracket can easily eject.
Use the tip of one arm of your angled tweezers to pry up the top edge of the display cable bracket from the center of the logic board.
Be very careful not to damage the board under the bracket's socket. Only insert your tweezers just enough to pry up the bracket.
Remove the bracket.
During reassembly, hook the bottom edge of the bracket into its slot on the logic board and press down firmly on the top to snap the bracket back into place.
If your display cable bracket is bent and doesn't fit, replace it with a new one.

Step 35

Insert the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail under the top edge of the display cable press connector and pry straight up to disconnect it.
The tension in this cable makes it tricky to reconnect. If necessary, hold the neck of the cable in place with tweezers and align it over the socket before pressing down to secure it.

Step 36

Remove the logic board from the frame.

Step 37

If the front sensor rubber gasket stayed on the frame or became misaligned, remove it and set it aside.
During reassembly, place the gasket over the front sensor on the logic board, with the smaller cutout toward the top.
Avoid touching the sensor with your fingers or tool.

Step 38

During reassembly:
Check the condition of the thermal pads—they'll be on the bottom of the logic board or the corresponding spot on the right side of the frame.
If you're reusing your logic board and either of the thermal pads are damaged, remove the old pad, clean the surface with highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%), and apply a new pad.
If you have a new logic board and it doesn't come with thermal pads pre-installed, apply the new pads now.

Step 39

Slide one arm of a pair of angled tweezers under the vibration motor and lift to separate its adhesive.
Make sure the arm is under the vibration motor body before you pry—prying just on the contact pads can break them.

Step 40

Remove the vibration motor.
During reassembly:
Use a spudger or tweezers to remove any old adhesive from the frame.
Remove any liners from your new vibration motor and press it into place.
If your vibration motor doesn't come with adhesive pre-installed, apply thin double-sided tape to the motor before pressing it into place.