Meta Quest 2 USB‑C Port and Headphone Jack Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 5

Meta Quest 2 USB‑C Port and Headphone Jack Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This guide shows how to remove and replace the USB‑C port and headphone jack for your Meta Quest 2.

The procedure requires extensive disassembly of your headset. If your battery is worn, consider taking this opportunity to replace it—it's normally hard to reach but is easily accessible during this repair.

Note: You'll need a long PH00 bit or a dedicated PH00 screwdriver to remove some recessed screws.

Tools

Step 1

Hold the power button for three seconds to fully turn off your headset.
You'll hear a power down chime, and the LED next to the power button will turn off.

Step 2

Grasp and pull on the nose section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.

Photos of each step and interim made this guide so easy to follow.

For.The.Tech.Of.It -

Step 3

Grasp and pull on the top section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.

Step 4

Remove the facial interface.
During reassembly, align the facial interface to the headset and use your fingers to press along the perimeter to clip it back in.

Step 5

Use a Torx T2 driver to remove the six 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the eyepiece trim.

Step 6

Insert an opening pick into the seam between the eyepiece trim and white outer shell, near the nose cutout.

Step 7

Slide the opening pick to the right along the seam to release the clips securing the eyepiece trim.
Pry with the opening pick to release the clips securing the right side of the eyepiece trim.
Leave the opening pick in the seam to prevent the clips from reengaging.

Step 8

Repeat the prying procedure along the left edge to release the clips securing the eyepiece trim.
During reassembly, press your fingers along the perimeter of the eyepiece trim to clip it back in place.

Step 9

Don’t try to fully remove the eyepiece trim in this step. It’s still connected to the headset by a short cable.
Lift the eyepiece trim slightly and tilt it towards the top edge of the headset.
Set the trim down on your work surface, making sure not to strain the cable.

Step 10

Use the point of a spudger to flip open the black lock tab on the ZIF connector securing the face sensor cable.

Step 11

Use tweezers to pull the face sensor cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 12

Remove the eyepiece trim.

Step 13

During reassembly:
Make sure the lens spacing matches the spacing indicator. This allows the indicator peg to sit correctly in its notch.
If the lens spacing doesn't match the indicator, manually adjust the lens with your fingers.

Step 14

During reassembly, the face sensor cable can be tricky to connect. Follow these tips to connect the cable:
Thread your fingers through the eyepiece trim’s eyeholes and grasp the edges of the sensor cable.
Slide the sensor cable into the socket until the first set of tabs rests in the socket. This should flip the lock tab down partially.
Use a spudger to press the lock tab down towards the cable to lock it in place.

Step 15

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 7.7 mm‑long screws securing the front cover to the headset:
One recessed in the top-left corner
One recessed in the top-right corner
Three along the lower edge

Step 16

The front cover is still held in place by clips along the bottom and side edges.
Insert an opening pick into the seam between the bottom edge of the front cover and the headset.
Pry with the opening pick to release the front cover clips.

Step 17

Slide the opening clip along the seam and pry to release all the clips securing the front cover.

Step 18

Remove the front cover.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the metal neck of the top-right antenna cable.
Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.

Step 20

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the battery cable bracket:
One 4.4 mm‑long screw
Two 2.3 mm‑long screws

Step 21

Use tweezers or your fingers to grasp the battery cable bracket.
Twist the cable bracket slightly so that its bottom left corner unclips from the motherboard.
Remove the battery cable bracket.

Step 22

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the motherboard.
The battery press connector can disconnect accidentally during reassembly. Check this connector before you attach the bracket.

Step 23

Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable near the fan assembly.
Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.

Step 24

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the antenna assembly to the headset:
Four 4.4 mm‑long screws
Two 4.8 mm‑long screws
Two 10.7 mm‑long screws

I love the way you color-coded each set of screws to help with organization!

For.The.Tech.Of.It -

Step 25

Use your fingers to flip up the antenna assembly enough to access the cable underneath it.

Step 26

Use tweezers to unclip the antenna cable from its metal clip.

Step 27

Remove the front antenna assembly.

Step 28

Use tweezers to grab the fan connector and carefully slide it out of its socket.

Step 29

Use the point of an opening pick to loosen the adhesive securing the LED flex cable from the top of the fan assembly.

Step 30

Remove the two screws securing the fan assembly to the headset:
One 4.4 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 3.6 mm‑long Torx T2 screw

Step 31

Lift the fan assembly and remove it.

Step 32

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.3 mm‑long screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 33

Use your fingers to lift the heat sink and remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
You can reuse the thermal paste if you keep it clean. Otherwise, use a spudger to scrape off the old paste and apply a small amount of viscous thermal compound (such as K5 Pro) to the processor.

Step 34

During reassembly, stop here and check if these twelve connectors are properly connected to the motherboard:
Two speaker connectors
Seven ZIF connectors
Two press connectors
One antenna connector
There are additional connectors on the motherboard, but they shouldn't be connected at this point.

Step 35

Use tweezers to grip the left speaker cables at the base of their motherboard connector.
Lift the connector gently straight up to disconnect it.
During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to press the speaker cable into the rubber holding clip.

Step 36

Repeat the disconnection procedure for the right speaker connector.
During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to press the speaker cable into the rubber holding clip.

Step 37

Use tweezers to gently peel the black tape covering the two top flex cables.
Set the tape aside to be reused during reassembly.

Step 38

Use a clean fingernail or a spudger to pry up the lock tab securing the top left camera cable.

Step 39

Grasp the top left camera cable with tweezers and slide it out of its ZIF connector.

Step 40

Move counter-clockwise around the motherboard and disconnect the remaining six ZIF connectors:
Power button and LED board
Bottom left camera
Bottom right camera
Top right camera
Face sensor interconnect cable
Indicator LED cable

Step 41

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable.

Step 42

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB‑C and headphone jack cable.

Step 43

Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the side antenna cable.
Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.

Step 44

Remove the five screws securing the motherboard to the headset:
Four 3.8 mm‑long Phillips screws
One 6 mm‑long 3.5 mm hex standoff screw

hex and left down screw with washer

k i -

Step 45

At this point, the motherboard should be loose, with some thermal paste sticking it to the headset.
Use a spudger to pry up and separate the motherboard from the headset.
If it feels like the motherboard is caught on something, check that all the cables are disconnected from it.

Step 46

Remove the motherboard.
You can reuse the thermal paste if you keep it clean. Otherwise, use a spudger to scrape off the old paste and apply a small amount of viscous thermal compound (such as K5 Pro) to the processor.

Step 47

Use your fingers or tweezers to peel and remove the two camera covers from the top cameras.
During reassembly, align the cutouts on the camera covers to their respective pegs on the headset.
The camera covers have different alignment cutouts and aren't interchangeable.

Step 48

Peel and remove the black tape covering the antenna cable.
Set this tape aside to be reused during reassembly.

Step 49

Use tweezers to lift and unclip the black antenna cable from the metal grounding clips.

Step 50

Use a spudger to pry up the black lock tab securing the left microphone flex cable to the left interconnect cable.
Use your fingers or tweezers to slide the microphone cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 51

Repeat the procedure to disconnect the right microphone cable.

Step 52

Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the battery flex cable to loosen the adhesive securing it from the headset.

Step 53

Some interconnect cables have been removed in the following images for clarity purposes. You don't have to remove them as part of the procedure.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the screen and lens assembly to the frame:
Two 6.5 mm‑long screws
Two 7.7 mm‑long screws

Step 54

Grasp the screen and lens assembly with your fingers.
Slowly lift and separate the assembly from the outer shell, taking care to reposition any cables that get in the way.
Remove the screen and lens assembly.

Step 55

During reassembly, be careful not to trap the twelve cables as you insert the lens assembly into the outer shell:
Three cables along the top edge—two flex cables and one LED flex cable
Two cables in the top right corner—the battery connector and an antenna cable
Two cables along the right edge—an antenna cable and a wide flex cable
Two flex cables along the bottom edge
Three cables along the left edge—one antenna cable, one flex cable, and one speaker cable
You can use a rubber band to help secure the cables out of the way.

Step 56

Use tweezers or your fingers to guide the left speaker cable out of its two plastic clips.
During reassembly:
Clip this cable neatly into the guide clips to prevent it from getting pinched by the screen and lens assembly.
The first guide clip should clip behind the rubber stop on the speaker cable. This anchors the cable while giving it enough slack for the speaker arm to swivel.

Step 57

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm‑long screws securing the left outer speaker bracket to the outer shell.

Step 58

Use a spudger to pry the outer speaker bracket off of the gaskets securing it to the speaker assembly.
Remove the left outer speaker bracket.

Step 59

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 4.5 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C port and headphone jack to the outer shell.

Step 60

Use your fingers or tweezers to pull the USB‑C port and headphone jack off of the screw posts.

Step 61

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the USB‑C port and headphone jack to its bracket.

Step 62

Use tweezers to grasp the screw post on the headphone jack, closest to the USB-C port.
Lift the edge to swing the headphone jack module out of its recess.

Step 63

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the USB-C port out of its recess.

Step 64

Remove the USB-C port and headphone jack from its bracket.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

272294 Reputation

2 comments

thank you for the guide, I was able to change the charging port and is now working. unfortunately, the headset is not able to see the controllers. by any chance you know what might cause this?

thank youuu

gonzalo escamez -

Had this just happen to me too I can get a charge now but once i turn it on it boots up takes me to the lock screen then locks out the controllers and headtracking just to go to a black screen and stay there until i try and restart it again. I'm guessing it might be a bad connection on either the proximity sensor or the cameras but I'm not sure

Joseph Maldonado -