Meta Quest 2 Headset Battery Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 11

Meta Quest 2 Headset Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This guide shows how to remove and replace a worn out battery in your Meta Quest 2 headset.

The battery is positioned above the screen and lens assembly and requires significant disassembly in order to reach it.

Note: You'll need a long PH00 bit or a dedicated PH00 screwdriver to remove some recessed screws.

Tools

Parts

Tesa 61395 Tape

Step 1

Hold the power button for three seconds to fully turn off your headset.
You'll hear a power down chime, and the LED next to the power button will turn off.

Step 2

Grasp and pull on the nose section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.

Photos of each step and interim made this guide so easy to follow.

For.The.Tech.Of.It -

Step 3

Grasp and pull on the top section of the facial interface to unclip it from the headset.

Step 4

Remove the facial interface.
During reassembly, align the facial interface to the headset and use your fingers to press along the perimeter to clip it back in.

Step 5

Use your fingers to grasp the right strap near the headset.
Peel the right strap away from the headset arm to unclip it.

Step 6

Repeat the procedure to peel the left strap away from the arm to unclip it.

Step 7

Separate the hook and loop strip on the top strap.

Step 8

Unthread the top strap from its bracket.
Remove the head strap.

Step 9

Use a Torx T2 driver to remove the six 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the eyepiece trim.

Step 10

Insert an opening pick into the seam between the eyepiece trim and white outer shell, near the nose cutout.

Step 11

Slide the opening pick to the right along the seam to release the clips securing the eyepiece trim.
Pry with the opening pick to release the clips securing the right side of the eyepiece trim.
Leave the opening pick in the seam to prevent the clips from reengaging.

Step 12

Repeat the prying procedure along the left edge to release the clips securing the eyepiece trim.
During reassembly, press your fingers along the perimeter of the eyepiece trim to clip it back in place.

Step 13

Don’t try to fully remove the eyepiece trim in this step. It’s still connected to the headset by a short cable.
Lift the eyepiece trim slightly and tilt it towards the top edge of the headset.
Set the trim down on your work surface, making sure not to strain the cable.

Step 14

Use the point of a spudger to flip open the black lock tab on the ZIF connector securing the face sensor cable.

Step 15

Use tweezers to pull the face sensor cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 17

During reassembly:
Make sure the lens spacing matches the spacing indicator. This allows the indicator peg to sit correctly in its notch.
If the lens spacing doesn't match the indicator, manually adjust the lens with your fingers.

Step 18

During reassembly, the face sensor cable can be tricky to connect. Follow these tips to connect the cable:
Thread your fingers through the eyepiece trim’s eyeholes and grasp the edges of the sensor cable.
Slide the sensor cable into the socket until the first set of tabs rests in the socket. This should flip the lock tab down partially.
Use a spudger to press the lock tab down towards the cable to lock it in place.

Step 19

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 7.7 mm‑long screws securing the front cover to the headset:
One recessed in the top-left corner
One recessed in the top-right corner
Three along the lower edge

Step 20

The front cover is still held in place by clips along the bottom and side edges.
Insert an opening pick into the seam between the bottom edge of the front cover and the headset.
Pry with the opening pick to release the front cover clips.

Step 21

Slide the opening clip along the seam and pry to release all the clips securing the front cover.

Step 23

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp the metal neck of the top-right antenna cable.
Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.

Step 24

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the battery cable bracket:
One 4.4 mm‑long screw
Two 2.3 mm‑long screws

Step 25

Use tweezers or your fingers to grasp the battery cable bracket.
Twist the cable bracket slightly so that its bottom left corner unclips from the motherboard.
Remove the battery cable bracket.

Step 26

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the motherboard.
The battery press connector can disconnect accidentally during reassembly. Check this connector before you attach the bracket.

Step 27

Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable near the fan assembly.
Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.
Guide the antenna cable out of its metal clip holding it in place.

Step 28

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the antenna assembly to the headset:
Four 4.4 mm‑long screws
Two 4.8 mm‑long screws
Two 10.7 mm‑long screws

I love the way you color-coded each set of screws to help with organization!

For.The.Tech.Of.It -

Step 29

Use your fingers to flip up the antenna assembly enough to access the cable underneath it.

Step 30

Use tweezers to unclip the antenna cable from its metal clip.

Step 32

Use tweezers to grab the fan connector and carefully slide it out of its socket.

Step 33

Use the point of an opening pick to loosen the adhesive securing the LED flex cable from the top of the fan assembly.

Step 34

Remove the two screws securing the fan assembly to the headset:
One 4.4 mm‑long Phillips screw
One 3.6 mm‑long Torx T2 screw

Step 36

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.3 mm‑long screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

Step 37

Use your fingers to lift the heat sink and remove it.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
You can reuse the thermal paste if you keep it clean. Otherwise, use a spudger to scrape off the old paste and apply a small amount of viscous thermal compound (such as K5 Pro) to the processor.

Step 38

During reassembly, stop here and check if these twelve connectors are properly connected to the motherboard:
Two speaker connectors
Seven ZIF connectors
Two press connectors
One antenna connector
There are additional connectors on the motherboard, but they shouldn't be connected at this point.

Step 39

Use tweezers to grip the left speaker cables at the base of their motherboard connector.
Lift the connector gently straight up to disconnect it.
During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to press the speaker cable into the rubber holding clip.

Step 40

Repeat the disconnection procedure for the right speaker connector.
During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to press the speaker cable into the rubber holding clip.

Step 41

Use tweezers to gently peel the black tape covering the two top flex cables.
Set the tape aside to be reused during reassembly.

Step 42

Use a clean fingernail or a spudger to pry up the lock tab securing the top left camera cable.

Step 43

Grasp the top left camera cable with tweezers and slide it out of its ZIF connector.

Step 44

Move counter-clockwise around the motherboard and disconnect the remaining six ZIF connectors:
Power button and LED board
Bottom left camera
Bottom right camera
Top right camera
Face sensor interconnect cable
Indicator LED cable

Step 45

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable.

Step 46

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the USB‑C and headphone jack cable.

Step 47

Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the side antenna cable.
Lift the antenna connector straight up to disconnect it.

Step 48

Remove the five screws securing the motherboard to the headset:
Four 3.8 mm‑long Phillips screws
One 6 mm‑long 3.5 mm hex standoff screw

hex and left down screw with washer

k i -

Step 49

At this point, the motherboard should be loose, with some thermal paste sticking it to the headset.
Use a spudger to pry up and separate the motherboard from the headset.
If it feels like the motherboard is caught on something, check that all the cables are disconnected from it.

Step 50

Remove the motherboard.
You can reuse the thermal paste if you keep it clean. Otherwise, use a spudger to scrape off the old paste and apply a small amount of viscous thermal compound (such as K5 Pro) to the processor.

Step 51

Use your fingers or tweezers to peel and remove the two camera covers from the top cameras.
During reassembly, align the cutouts on the camera covers to their respective pegs on the headset.
The camera covers have different alignment cutouts and aren't interchangeable.

Step 52

Peel and remove the black tape covering the antenna cable.
Set this tape aside to be reused during reassembly.

Step 53

Use tweezers to lift and unclip the black antenna cable from the metal grounding clips.

Step 54

Use a spudger to pry up the black lock tab securing the left microphone flex cable to the left interconnect cable.
Use your fingers or tweezers to slide the microphone cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 55

Repeat the procedure to disconnect the right microphone cable.

Step 56

Slide the point of an opening pick underneath the battery flex cable to loosen the adhesive securing it from the headset.

Step 57

Some interconnect cables have been removed in the following images for clarity purposes. You don't have to remove them as part of the procedure.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the screen and lens assembly to the frame:
Two 6.5 mm‑long screws
Two 7.7 mm‑long screws

Step 58

Grasp the screen and lens assembly with your fingers.
Slowly lift and separate the assembly from the outer shell, taking care to reposition any cables that get in the way.
Remove the screen and lens assembly.

Step 59

During reassembly, be careful not to trap the twelve cables as you insert the lens assembly into the outer shell:
Three cables along the top edge—two flex cables and one LED flex cable
Two cables in the top right corner—the battery connector and an antenna cable
Two cables along the right edge—an antenna cable and a wide flex cable
Two flex cables along the bottom edge
Three cables along the left edge—one antenna cable, one flex cable, and one speaker cable
You can use a rubber band to help secure the cables out of the way.

Step 60

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 4.5 mm‑long screws securing the battery to the outer shell:
Two along the front edge
Four along the back edge

Step 61

Use your fingers or tweezers to remove the top strap bracket.

Step 63

Slide an opening pick under the face sensor interconnect cable to loosen the adhesive securing it to the battery.
Remove the sensor interconnect cable.
Transfer the cable to your replacement battery. Be sure to align it using the two alignment cutouts, and use some double-sided tape such as Tesa tape to secure it.

You can remove the three T2 screws and to lift the metal cover off of the battery assembly to access the cell. The cell is secured with weak adhesive. Pour a bit of IPA into the tray and after a few minutes, use picks to pry the cell free of tray. Take your time with this to avoid cracking the tray.

Once the cell is free, you can carefully peel away the strip of black tape from the top of the cell which allows you to slide the plastic cap off the cell and expose the main positive and negative terminals that directly connect the cell to the protection pcb. This provides a safer way to test the cell.

You can detach the cell from the protection board and replace it with one that will fit the tray or try to charge it.

My cell measured 2.0V. I am attempting to use a cheap TP4056 module to charge the cell up to full. A TP4056 will trickle charge a low cell up to about 3.5V and then will switch to normal charging rate up to 4.2V. I'll post a follow up comment if I have any success with this.

Jason Buschman -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

272294 Reputation

7 comments

Life is too short.

Adam Genesis -

I followed this to change the battery in my son's headset amd I have to say it was a life saver. Very well written and detailed, the photos and coloured circles were of particular help. Thanks for the effort - I'm about to use it again to replace the motherboard! Really frustrating that with a few simple design changes Meta could have made this a five minute job, but well done for helping us all out! :)

Paul Newman -

This was a well written and very thorough how to guide that tool a lot of dedication and I commend you for it. I am contemplating taking on this endeavor on behalf of my adult son who was gracious enough to allow me to use his machine and I am now a huge fan, just in time for the battery to wear out. Still debating if I will attempt but know for sure I would not even begin.to consider it without your guide. Thank you for such a selfless endeavor!

Michael Johnson -

Many thanks!!!

Hugh Calder -

I disassembled my quest because I have water damage. I have cleaned all corrosion, but I would like tot test the battery before I reassemble. How can I check if the battery is in good condition?

Cas -

This guide made the job fun. Thanks!

john -

where do you get the replacement battery? Thank you!

Kathryn Greacen -