Google Pixel 6a Battery Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 90

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Use this guide to replace the battery in your Google Pixel 6a.

Note: this guide was made using the Verizon GB62Z model, which features a 5G mmWave antenna. Ignore the steps that include the 5G mmWave antenna if you have a different model, as the procedure is identical.

For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Google Pixel 6a Battery - Genuine

Step 1

Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.
Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.

I can't turn off the phone because the screen is broken. Hence why I am trying to replace it.

fixedgerald -

I managed to turn my phone off by playing with the buttons on the side. I can't tell you exactly how I did it, but it is possible.

YuropeCat -

Strongly recommend before you start, get a headlamp like for camping and make sure it's charged up good. Even next to a bright south facing window I had difficulty with the shadows inside the phone and along the edges. Headlamp helped.

EMC -

Fully turn off the device by holding down the Volume Up button and the Power button.

Emanuele Artusi - 07/11/24

Step 2

Before starting your repair, take note of the following:
Screen seam: This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. Do not pry at this seam.
Bezel seam: This is where the plastic bezel designed to protect the screen meets the frame. It's held in place by plastic clips. This is where you should pry.

Don't actually perform this step now - read a few more steps first!

Brian Sweeney -

If changing the glass on only would you not separate the screen seam?

Brettstann -

Step 3

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
If your screen is cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over the right edge of your phone.
Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction.
If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 4

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 5

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp so it lays on the right edge of the phone.
You can also use a hair dryer or heat gun—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

What's a good temperature to set to hotplate to for a repair like this?

David -

I used a hair dryer to heat up the adhesive. Unfortunatly the IOpener did not work for me. Even with the hair dryer, it was quiet difficult to soften the adhesive. It might have been due to the phone beeing only a few months old.

It was quiet difficult to seperate the screen, but it eventuelly worked. I feel like it took the heat a while to move through the cover and heat up all of the adhesive. After almost giving up, I tried again after a few minutes without heating it again and it suddenly worked. So keep that in mind.

LetsTryThisNext -

Agree with LetsTryThisNext's comment -- it takes a while for the adhesive to loosen. Expect to be at it for 20, 30 minutes -- with the iOpener not working (for me either), re-microwaving the iOpener, then hair dryer, then suction cup not sticking, etc. Good idea to give it a few minutes between each heating attempt.

Steve -

The iOpener worked for me - once I got the expectation right that it was going to take a while.
Went through about 5-6 cycles of:
* Heating for 40 seconds (1100W microwave); applying to phone for 2 minutes; heating for 30 seconds; applying to phone for 2 minutes; allow to cool for 10 minutes

Could probably have done with one more cycle to get glue even more sticky TBH but when it lifted it was obvious.

Karl Laird -

Took me 3 heat cycles with the iOpener. Basically I did 30 seconds in 1000W microwave and left to heat adhesive for 5 mins, then after stuggling to get the pick in for a few minutes, I did 10 seconds microwave then a couple of mins warming adhesive and a couple of mins failing to get the pick in. Then on 3rd attempt after anothe 10mseconds in the microwave, i got in easily. Seems like the adhesive really takes a while to melt. I also improved my technique with the suction cup which seemed to help lift the screen. Once you are in it is easy to release the remaining clips.

Mark -

Hair dryer on high for about 10 seconds did the trick. Had to blowdry it about 3 times. iOpener did not get hot enough

Leon - 16/07/23

iOpener did not work for me as well. The hairdryer approach, as Leon mentioned, worked for me, too. I used the Jimmy tool to get access for the picks.

Alex -

I started with a single edge razor blade and made 1-2 inch cuts to the bezel seam, then applied the opener with a hair dryer on low about 6 inches away. After no more than 2-3 minutes I applied the suction cup, and used a combination of the straight edge razor and picks to open the screen. It was very easy.

SteveDK -

The iOpener worked for me, but I went for multiple applications to loosen the adhesive. I think the pins are too big and that's the main issue for people. I used a thin cutter to make a wedge. It probably ran the risk of some damage to the battery. I'd recommend something plastic, thin, and preferably somewhat wide to make enough space for the iFixIt wedges.

YuropeCat -

The iOpener worked for me. I just insisted on using it until the screen visibly moved upward (some creaking is also noticeable). It was heated for 35/45 seconds with 800 watts in the microwave oven every 10/15 minutes.

Emanuele Artusi - 07/11/24

Step 7

Apply a suction cup to the screen, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the bezel and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Would be helpful to have alternative solutions offered here for those with shattered screens, since suction cups don't work.

Paul York -

Hi Paul.

Thank you for your comment! I have updated the step to provide an alternative solution for shattered screens.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl - 22/11/22

Would just like to note that in my particular case even tape or super glue did not work, due to the screen being shattered right along the spot where you need to place the suction cup. I ended up resorting to inserting a razor blade into the seam to open it just enough to insert the pick.

mkirwin -

I'm in the same boat as mkirwin no amount of pulling with the suction cup worked, I had to use a razor blade to get the seam separated enough to insert a pick. Maybe I didn't heat up the adhesive enough but that stuff is super strong

Tanner Davis -

If your suction cup is not working properly: Heat it up a little bit and it will have a lot more suction.

LetsTryThisNext -

Ditto, needed to use a razor blade to get it started. Thank you mkirwin & Tanner D for posting that tip here.

Steve -

I'm having trouble pulling on the suction cup, keeping the phone down and inserting the pick all at the same time. The suction doesn't hold unless I use my other hand to keep the phone down, but then I can't use the pick. Is there a way Im supposed to keep the phone locked down?

Jemay A Fassom - 20/06/23

Would something like this suffice in lieu of a razor blade?

I, too, cannot a gap with the suction cups.

https://www.amazon.com/JerryRigEverythin...

badlydrawnface - 19/09/23

After hours of not getting any movement at all, I ended up putting a hot pack (like for a sore back) under the phone and the iOpener on top, on the right side, and that was enough to get through this step...

Jessie -

This is really misleading, the iOpener doesn't work very well to heat it up, I've spent hours on this, and the tabs are definitely not enough to get it started on their own.

Stuck -

Same as the above comments, got nowhere with the opener + pick, had to jam a razor blade in first, and then used picks.

Lee -

same as others, needed metal to open the initial gap in the side of the screen. A razor blade worked right away after struggling with the plastic picks for 30 minutes. A tiny, pixel-sized dot of damage to the entry point but you would have to look very close to see it.

Greg K -

If your screen is broken, the suggestion of using tape is not a bad one at all. I did end up pulling glass shards off the old screen too.

YuropeCat -

Pick is nowhere near good enough to start the process, and the suction cup is really weak. I didn't have an iOpener because I didn't want to buy it. I had one or two cracks near the middle of the screen, not that bad but enough that pulling the suction cup just made it come loose. I had to 1) apply packing tape to the screen, 2) soak the suction cup in a bit of near-boiling water for a minute or two, 3) use the edge of my pocket knife (had no razor blades), and most importantly 4) hold the phone with the bottom edge against my chest, top edge in my off-hand, point the screen toward my offhand, and pull the suction cup with my offhand. This position was WAY easier than having the phone flat on the desk.

EMC - 02/11/24

If the screen glass is particularly broken and/or the suction cup has lost elasticity: rely heavily on clear wide packet tape by putting a smooth layer on the screen and sticking another raised layer over it so you can grip it with your hand.
Use the Jimmy if the opening pick is not thin enough to fit through the slot, being extremely careful not to smear the phone shell and not to abruptly insert the pick inside the phone causing serious damage to internal components. Then use it to create just enough space to insert the first pick, then continue with the picks.

The Jimmy is also useful for cutting the strands of adhesive that stick to the screen and make it difficult to separate from the shell, while keeping in mind the warnings in the previous point.

Emanuele Artusi -

Step 8

While still applying suction, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
Carefully push the pick in while prying to reposition the opening pick into the bezel seam.
Only insert the pick up to 3.5 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

Unfortunatly my plectrums I got with the pro tool kit bent way too easy to open up this first crack between screen and housing. But the reason might have been, that the adhesive was not soft enough yet

LetsTryThisNext -

I gave up with the suction cup. My screen was too cracked. Instead, after applying heat to loosen the glue, I used a very tiny flat head precision screwdriver to prise the screen open. Not recommended as it leaves a tiny scratch, but saves a lot of hassle. See also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxdaaTd7....

Robert Baker -

Step 9

Slide the pick along the right edge to release the plastic clips securing the bezel to the frame.
Position the pick at the top-right edge before moving to the next step.

Step 10

Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the phone to release the clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top-right corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.
Only insert the pick up to 4 mm to avoid damaging the internals.

Step 11

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the top edge to release the clips.
When slicing around the front camera, only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the lens.

Step 12

Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the phone to release the clips.
Leave the opening pick in the top-left corner to prevent the clips from re-locking.

I found that using the side of the pick instead of the point made it easier to keep from over-inserting the pick and it provided more area to keep the glass separated from the frame. It was also easier to slide it around the edges this way. Still had to use the point to get under the frame initially.

mark schneider -

Step 13

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created.
Slide the pick along the left edge to release the clips.
Only insert the pick up to 3 mm to avoid damaging the internals.
Repeat the rotating and sliding procedure for the remaining edge.
At this point, the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to release any remaining clips.

Step 14

Don't try to remove the screen all the way yet. It's still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
Lift the right edge of the screen up and towards the left side of the device, like opening a book.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.

Step 15

The display cable bracket is secured with metal clips.
Use tweezers to bend the bottom side of the bracket upwards, releasing the metal clip.
Remove the display cable bracket.
During reassembly, insert the top side of the bracket first before pressing down the other side. Failure to do so could result in sparks and logic board damage.

Does anyone know what happens if I lost the metal clip to secure the display cable?

Emmanuel Medina Morales -

Hi Emmanuel.

Oh no! Unfortunately, this clip is pretty important for securing your screen's press connector, and we don't sell it separately. You should be fine as long as you don't drop your phone...but you may be able to tape it down with some masking tape as a rough fix. Another alternative would be to find a destroyed Pixel 6a and scavenge the clip.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

I'm confused about the instructions and the pictures. The pictures imply that the clip should be bent, but the text may describe the method that I applied:

I inserted tweezers at the left side of the clip (there where the springy part snaps under a metal tab). By carefully placing each 'tweeze' of the tweezer on both sides of the tab, it is possible to gently pushing the springy part to the right, and then it releases without having to deform that entire bracket.

After re-reading the instructions, that may be what is implied, but if one were to look at only the pictures it could suggest something different.

Hugo van Galen -

Yes I did Hugo's method and it worked well. Using tweezers I directly pried the springy part from under the metal tab.

Joe Rayner -

Similar to above, struggled to pry this off based on the description+photos, needed to consult a separate video and a bit of trial and error to eventually release it.

Lee -

If you look right at the bottom end of the bracket there's a couple sets of holes right next to the screw. If you insert each end of the tweezers into those holes and tilt the tweezers the bracket pops right out.

Danielle Cerisier -

Danielle is right! It's absolutely the case! Dang thing flew out!

YuropeCat -

Thank you Danuelle! Worked perfectly!

Joshua Macy -

The tip from danielle worked, but I got a little spark from the metal tweezers! I hope that didn't damage anything too badly. Maybe use a toothpick or something like that to push the metal bit in.

YuropeCat -

I forgot to replace the bracket after putting the screen back on, what are the chances it is fine?

Emanuel Mustaro -

Step 16

Be very careful performing this step, as you risk damaging tiny components around the press connector.
Insert the tip of an opening pick under the bottom right edge of the display cable press connector, right above the nearby screw hole.
Pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

be incredibly careful when removing and installing the cable, the many tiny components along the edge and under the tab are incredibly fragile. This is one of, if not, the most important step.

Jeffrey Leon -

At this step I had some trouble to reattach the connector. When I pushed down one side the other would pop up again. I solved the issue by carefully pressing down both sides with the tweezers.

LetsTryThisNext -

silly me totally forgot to reattach "The display cable bracket is secured with metal clips." soooooo maybe tell silly people like me to do that at the end lol. phone will work, but i feel if i drop it the cable may disconnect.... oh well

Aleksander Szadurski (Max209) -

Don't put the ribbon back in until you have cleaned the old adhesive off and installed the new adhesive!

Wesley Shippey -

I'm struggling with the reattachment. I think I've got it and then when I try to test the screen I'm getting nothing. Even tried to attach my old cracked one and nothings happening.

Does this mean I've damaged something?

Jamie B -

Obviously the most critical step.
When reassembling 2 things helped me:
1/ You can actually let the new screen rest on the phone at a 90+ degrees angle (thanks to the small plastic edges on the screen) , which leaves you both hand free

2/ You can gently unfold the display cable to make it more flexible

Paul Jacques -

During reattachment, make sure you fully plug in the cable. I tested as indicated by turning on the screen and all seemed good. Closed down the screen and then realised it was not reacting to touch... Was very worried but reopening it, turns out I hadn't fully plugged in the screen connector. All good now

Adrien C_v__l_es -

I think this is why my screen was defected in the first place. I did not have to do anything to remove the cable. It came off just by looking at it!

Irene Coerts -

Follow very carefully the specific guide for connecting the press connectors.

Emanuele Artusi -

Step 17

Remove the screen.
During reassembly:
If you replaced your screen, check the front-facing camera hole and the sensor cutout on your replacement screen, and remove any remaining liners.
Check your phone if the proximity sensor's rubber gasket is missing—it might be stuck to the back of your old screen. Replace it if necessary.
This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily connect your screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Before continuing with reassembly, power off your phone.
Remember to reinstall the display cable bracket.
Follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive.
If you're installing a new screen, follow this guide to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.

Don't forget the display cable bracket folks! This was my first at home repair and Im kicking myself forgetting the bracket.

Tanner Davis -

me too RIP so sad

Drdynamite “Dr dynamite” - -

I just did the same thing. I feel like I pressed the connector down well enough but I wonder how long this will last until it comes loose.

This step should have been made more obvious in the guide.

Boristhespider1995 -

The fingerprint sensor calibration is impossible to complete in some cases. No matter what, I get an error "Your phone's current software version: TQ2A.230305.008.E1 is newer than this repair tool has." from the google software updater. This indicates it is a known issue "https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/2... not fixed for a year. The Google USB driver does not help if you're not on Windows and get this error. I tried on both mac and linux, no dice.

I'm SOL without a fingerprint sensor. Screen works again though, and everything else went ok with the repair.

Scott Carey -

A couple of sweaty freaky steps in there - but was able to complete successfully as a first time repairer

Karl Laird -

For anyone with issues with the Fingerprint Calibration: just spent a few hours so I figured I should post my solution.

I kept going to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/udfps and being met with error messages.

Here's what to do:

1. Go to https://developer.android.com/studio/run... and choose "Download the Google USB Driver ZIP file (ZIP)." From there, ensure you know where the USB Driver is saved.

2. Put your phone into Fastboot Mode by shutting the phone down and then starting it with both the bottom volume button and the power button.

Do not have your phone all the way in Rescue Mode or it won't work

3. Connect the phone to your PC via. USB

4. Go to Device Manager and look under "Other devices" until you find your phone

5. Right click and choose "Update Driver" and choose "Browse my computer for drivers"

6. Click "Browse" and navigate to your downloaded driver from step 1, choosing "ok" and then "next." The driver update should go through.

7. Go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/ and follow it!

Miles Wyckoff - 02/07/23

I followed this and worked perfectly, no more incompatibility issues of the software not working due to new os update.

thanks

kecher joshua -

Thank you very much for posting this -- I was helping a friend replace his screen and we would have been stumped without these directions!

zlsmith -

This worked perfectly for me as well. First I was a little worried I didn't reattach the display properly because the error message said (German): "Fingerprintsensor kann nicht gefunden werden.". However, the calibration process fixed the problem! Yay!

Laura Rahm -

You absolute legend!!

Dave Morris -

I have followed all the above steps but get the error:

Couldn't find the unique calibration software for this device

Can anyone help?

Matthew Holtom -

1. Go to https://developer.android.com/studio/run... and choose "Download the Google USB Driver ZIP file (ZIP)." From there, ensure you know where the USB Driver is saved.

2. Put your phone into Fastboot Mode by shutting the phone down and then starting it with both the bottom volume button and the power button.

Do not have your phone all the way in Rescue Mode or it won't work

3. Connect the phone to your PC via. USB

4. Go to Device Manager and look under "Other devices" until you find your phone

5. Right click and choose "Update Driver" and choose "Browse my computer for drivers"

6. Click "Browse" and navigate to your downloaded driver from step 1, choosing "ok" and then "next." The driver update should go through.

7. Go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/ and follow it!

kecher joshua -

When doing the fingerprint calibration and putting the phone into Fastboot Mode: Keep it on the screen with the red triangle (i.e. don't press the "Start" button) when plugging it in to your computer.

Matt Nesbitt -

This was failing for me until I got it all the way into rescue mode. I had the fastboot screen up and rescue mode selected, but it would not connect at the website. Once I hit the button on 'rescue' and it went into rescue mode, then it connected. Then it told me my software was up to date and I didn't need a new install.

Adrian Spidle -

Is there a way to recalibrate the fingerprint without the equivalent of a factory reset?

Adrian Spidle -

I replaced the screen through a professional and purchased it from here. I calibrated the fingerprint sensor correctly, but the proximity sensor is not working! Anyone with the same problem? Any help?

Fabry D -

IMPORTANT NOTE - if you buy the screen "part only" it does not come with adhesive!

If you already have the tools (and I have all the iFixIt stuff), ordering the "part only" means you'll have to get the adhesive separately, with another postage charge. Quite frustrating! Yes I suppose it's written down somewhere...

Ben Scott -

This looks to be no longer true--October 2024 I received a screen adhesive with my screen, and had ordered a separate one, so now I have two.

EMC -

Hi, the repair guide tells to Check the "camera area" and the "Sensor area". My replacement Display only has the black plastic part in the camera area shown in the picture. The black plastic part in the Sensor area is not there. I also checked the packaging but it is not inside. Did anybody else have this issue?

Thanks!

Markus - 14/03/24

Hi Markus!

Thanks for pointing this out. It looks like the replacement screen didn't come with the black sensor bracket. We'll adjust the instructions shortly to cover this. Sorry for the inconvenience.

If you still have your original screen, please transfer the bracket over. The bracket is adhered to the screen with light adhesive. Use an opening pick to pry it up. If it feels difficult, heat the bracket with an iOpener and try again.

Arthur Shi -

If you can't find the bracket on your original screen, it may actually still be attached to your phone. Check the motherboard as the bracket surrounds the sensor on it.

Arthur Shi -

Hi Arthur,

You are right. The replacement does not come with the bracket. It was also not in my original display but your second hint to check the phone hit it. The bracket ist still attached to the sensor.

Thanks for your Support!

Markus

Markus -

I bought several screens for 6, 6a and 7. I always have to repeat the fingerprint calibration a few times until it works.

Last one, for a 6a, changes the colour temperature randomly and also is really dark under the sunlight, and a few issues else. I think this is not related to software but a defective screen. What do you think?

BMS -

Similar to Miles' comment. The instructions in the How to Calibrate page should be modified. Steps are missing/in the wrong order. From a Windows machine, you can download the USB driver from Google, yes, but the USB driver cannot be installed to the phone via Device Manager until after you have booted the phone into Faststart mode and then connected to the USB cable.

Greg K -

For anyone who has problems calibrating the fingerprint sensor, I happened to find a pretty good solution. The only problem is that you need another Android device like a tablet or phone.

1. Go to https://pixelrepair.withgoogle.com/carri... on the working Android device

2. Follow the instructions until you are in fastboot mode on the repaired device

3. Do not select the rescue mode!!!!

4. Simply connect your repaired phone to the working Android device via USB

5. Press "Connection" on the working device and follow the instructions.

Once you have selected your repaired device, everything will go very quickly until your repaired phone reboots and your fingerprint sensor can be used again.

I already tried this with the rescue mode, but the fingerprint error was still not fixed. I accidentally connected my phone without selecting rescue mode and everything went pretty quickly to success.

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

Kor Lu -

bonjour.
il est ecrit "C'est un bon moment pour tester votre téléphone avant de le refermer. Reconnectez votre écran temporairement, allumez votre téléphone, et vérifiez toutes les fonctions. Avant de continuer le remontage, éteignez le téléphone et déconnectez l'écran.".
je ne comprends pas "deconnectez l'ecran" ??? si le but est de poursuivre le remontage il faut le laisser connecté après vérification, non ?
Merci

DONNADIEU Frederic -

Bonjour @donnadieuf32097, vous avez raison ! Merci de la remarque. Le tuto a été changé en fonction. J'espère que vous avez pu mener à terme votre réparation ! Bien à vous, Claire

Claire Miesch -

This actually went quite smoothly. Much easier repair than the previous time I did a repair (I think that was on my Pixel 3a or 4a or something). I remember in the past attaching the adhesive was a nightmare and it got totally tangled in itself, but applying it this time with the multiple liners was a breeze. In this repair, removing the old adhesive took the most time, easily 40 minutes. Total repair time was probably more like 2-2.5 hours because of the old adhesive.

EMC - 02/11/24

Removing the old adhesive will take a long time.

After the fall, my Pixel has the top corners of the metal shell slightly flattened making the final part of reassembly difficult: the new screen remained raised at the top of the phone by a millimeter. To fix it, I laid the phone with the screen facing down and on top of a mouse pad to avoid damage from scratching or breaking the glass; I pressed my fingertips on the back of the top edge steadily and energetically until I heard the click of the plastic clip securing the screen. The screen looks brand new now.

Emanuele Artusi -

Step 18

Use tweezers to peel back the silver tape connecting the midframe and the top speaker.
Don't completely remove the tape. You only need to remove the bridge between the midframe and the top speaker.

Step 19

Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the two screws on both sides of the USB-C port.

Step 20

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 16 screws securing the midframe to the frame:
Eight 4.3 mm screws
Five 2.9 mm screws
Two 4.9 mm screws
One 4.6 mm screw

I have eight 4.3mm screws and five 2.9mm screws.

M Ma -

I need help, my google pixel 6a was a refurbished phone. Upon getting to this step, five of the screws were already badly stripped so I cannot get them off. Very disappointing. Is there any hope to fix my phone still? They are the Green one, all of the orange except for they top right and the pair of red screws on the top right (not the corner right red one that is on its own on the top right).

YaBoyJamal -

Sorry to hear that! Here's a guide with some tips and tricks - hopefully one works! How to Remove a Stripped Screw

Carsten Frauenheim -

Step 21

Insert a spudger between the top of the midframe and the frame, near the front camera.
Pry up with the spudger to release the top of the midframe from its clips.

Step 22

Insert a spudger between the bottom left of the midframe and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the bottom of the midframe from its clips.

Step 23

Remove the midframe.
You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal since the midframe is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 24

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the thermal paste.
Clean any remaining thermal paste with isopropyl alcohol and either a coffee filter or a lint-free cloth.
Repeat the cleaning process for the thermal paste on the midframe.
During reassembly, follow this guide for reapplying thermal paste to your device.

Step 25

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector.

Step 26

If your device doesn't have a 5G mmWave antenna, skip the next four steps.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm screw securing the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

My 2 Pixel 6a phones do not have a 5G mmWave antenna. If yours doesn't have it either, feel free to just skip the steps mentioning it.

Vlad S - 06/10/24

Step 27

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the bracket towards the right edge of the phone and disconnect its clip.
Remove the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 28

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna's press connector.

Step 29

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the 5G mmWave antenna.

Step 30

If your device doesn't have a battery spacer, skip the next three steps.
Insert an opening pick between the plastic battery spacer and the battery.
Slide the pick forward while prying to separate enough of the spacer to grip it with tweezers.

Step 31

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the battery spacer away from the device.

Step 32

Remove the battery spacer.
If your replacement battery didn't come with this spacer, transfer it to your replacement part.

Step 33

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the plastic pull tabs away from the battery.

Step 34

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the back of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 35

Pull the tabs back and forth in a sawing motion down the length of the battery to separate the adhesive underneath.
Work slowly. It's easy to lose your grip and accidentally pull the tab up from under the battery.
If you're having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more heat and wait for the adhesive to loosen.

Step 36

Tilt the battery out of the device to separate the rest of the adhesive.
Remove the battery.
Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the device at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.
During reassembly, temporarily reconnect the battery to the motherboard to help align it correctly. Disconnect the battery after it's seated.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

To run a diagnostics test with the built-in Pixel Diagnostic tool, click here.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery after completing this guide.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

151892 Reputation

4 comments

Great instructions- all done and successful!

Many thanks

Dan Wilkinson -

The placement of the battery adhesives and display adhesives during reassembly is not clear. The battery adhesive (IF356-344-1) seems to contain other parts that do not appear in the disassembly

Dan Flynn -

Just finished this myself. Not sure why the battery adhesive package seemed to come with extra spacer pieces that didn't appear during the teardown.

Almost forgot to reapply thermal paste before putting the midframe back in, oops.

Joe Wileman -

Great instructions, I fixed it, thanks! One comment, instead of following the generic pre-cut adhesive instructions in step 36, use the Pixel 6a specific adhesive guide in step 17.

Craig -