Totma

town in Vologda Oblast, Russia

Totma is a historic northern Russian town in Vologda Oblast

Cathedral of the Ascension

No less interesting than its better known, touristy neighbor, Veliky Ustyug, this is an ancient, historic town of the Russian North, lying on the Sukhona River. The town bears witness to its Russian explorers and sailors who opened up Siberia and Alaska to Russia. Evidence of this is on every corner, be it monuments, temples, ships of authentic Totem Baroque style, and even images of the American black-brown fox on the town's coat of arms. Several interesting natural sights are nearby, along the Sukhona River.

A visit here will be especially interesting for Orthodox pilgrims, travelers interested in Russian history and architecture, and adventurous road trippers. Summertime is the best time to visit.

Understand

Totma is the administrative center of the Totemsky District, located on the Sukhona River.

History

Orientation

The main part of Totma is on the left, high bank of the Sukhona River. There is practically nothing to do by the river, with the exception of a few panoramic viewpoints.

Church of the Birth of Christ

The small central part of the town is, naturally, along the river. Its grid layout is sometimes broken by the natural features of the relief, hollows, and streams. The town center is essentially bounded by Kirov Street on the north, the river to the south, in the east by Dmitrovsky (or a little farther the Korepovsky Stream), and in the west by the curiously-named Pesya Denga river (Dog Money). The latter has nothing to do with dog currency; the name comes from the Finno-Ugric Pes-Edenga.

The central streets are Lenina and Sovetskaya, intersecting with Belousovskaya, connect the Totemsky Cathedral Hill, the main shopping square, and park areas. There is no clearly marked embankment in the city, but there are several walkways to the river down steep banks, with good views.

The outskirts of Totma are former villages, some of which you must visit: Zelenskaya Sloboda to the west of the center, as well as the village of Varnitsa in the north of the city. Babushkina Street leads to the northwestern outskirts of the city, where you'll find Spaso-Sumorin Monastery.

Get in

By car

From Moscow go along federal highway M8 “Kholmogory” via Rostov, Yaroslavl, Vologda, Kadnikov, and exit at Chekshino P7 to Totma. The quality of the road from Chekshino to Totma is not bad, though there are some rough spots, which are being actively repaired. From Totma, the P7 highway continues south over the bridge towards Nikolsk, and then from Chekshino to the east towards Veliky Ustyug along the Sukhonsky Trakt (240 km distance, 90% of the distance is paved). There are several gas stations in Totma, including a Lukoil, and refueling is a good idea, since there are no more until Ustyug.

На автобусе

From Vologda to Totma there are buses and minibus taxis.

🌍 Bus station (Автовокзал). (updated Jul 2018)

Get around

View over Totma from the Church of the Entry into Jerusalem

Taxis in Totma

See

Religious architecture

Do

Buy

Eat

Holy Trinity Church

Drink

Sleep

Go next

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