Setomaa

Setomaa is in Võru County in southeastern Estonia. Everything in Setomaa is the same as in Estonia, just completely different. Setomaa has always been a border area — between Western and Eastern culture and religion — and because of this it has its own kind of people who are neither this or that, just Setos.

• 🌍 Värska is a small borough (alevik) in Setomaa Parish. In 2021 Census, its population was 414. It's the most populous village of the parish.
• 🌍 Obinitsa
• 🌍 Meremäe

The Seto Külävüü ‒ literally, the "Seto Village Belt", is Setomaa's main tourism route. It winds like the undone belt of a traditional folk costume from one Seto village to another. It is like the backbone of Setomaa, to which are fastened villages, churches, cafes, museums, and the like. One end of the Külavüü is at Võõpsu, Setomaa's northern gateway, and it winds through Värska and Saatse to Obinitsa and Meremäe, making knots through neighbouring places -- like Tsiistre in Võrumaa -- and then ending at the Luhamaa border crossing. This imaginary line could also move forward through the historic heart of Setomaa, part of which is in the Russian Federation.

This region has throughout history been under the jurisdiction of various Russian entities. Because of this, the Setos are Orthodox Christians and churches, chapels, and holy days are of special importance to them. What is distinct us that on church/chapel days, Setos go to the cemetery to feast and celebrate at the graves of the departed, a celebration that the Setos call kirmas.

The Setos have their own folk song tradition, the Seto leelo, which differs significantly from Estonian runo folk songs.

Seto cuisine is almost the same as Estonian cuisine, only different, be it by preparation method, combination of ingredients, or serving style.

• 🌍 Seto Museum of Farming, Pikk 56, Värska, ☏ +372 505 4673. June 1-August 31: Su M 10:00-16:00, Tu-Sa 10:00-18:00; September 1-May 31: Tu-Sa 10:00-16:00, Su M closed. A museum of the Seto people's farming culture and practices. It showcases traditional farm construction, ancient work tools, and craftwork. It also organizes Seto cultural events which present Seto folklore and traditions, such as "Lace days" (Estonian, pitsipäevad) where visitors have the opportunity to watch and help create colorful Seto lacework among other traditions. (updated Jun 2023)

• The Tsäimaja cafe in the Värska Farm Museum offers Seto national dishes from handmade clay dishes and plays Seto music. On the first floor of the house, there is a classroom which is suitable for smaller groups.