Muck

Muck is one of the Small Isles off the west coast of Scotland. It's the smallest of the four inhabited Isles, about 2½ miles east-west by a mile north-south, and has no shop, church or even a letter-box. It's low-lying and its east is fertile, with a range of accommodation, so in summer its resident population of 40 is doubled; its west is rugged, with rough grazing. Muck is owned by the MacEwen family, who've lived and farmed here for a century. Back in 1785 the owner hated being called "Lord of Muck" and tried to persuade Johnson & Boswell that it was "Monk". The name probably means pigs (Gaelic mouach) but is now thought to refer to porpoises, "sea-pigs", which abound in these waters.

The island website has far less info than you'll find by reading here.

First get to Mallaig by train, bus or car. You'll need an overnight stop before taking the Calmac ferry onward next morning, except perhaps for the weekend afternoon sailings.

The ferry sails to different Small Isles on different days. April-Oct it calls at Muck and returns to Mallaig on Tu, Th, Sa and Su. Day trips from Mallaig to Muck are possible on Saturday, with 4 hours ashore. Nov-March the ferry calls on M, W, F and Sa; day-trips are not possible.

Sightseeing trips from Arisaig frequently visit Muck from May to September.

All routes are for foot passengers only; dogs and bikes are welcome but you can't bring a vehicle. Return fares until end of March 2025 are adult £11, child £5.60.

🌍 Muck ferry pier is on the south-east corner of the island at Port Mòr (Gaelic for "Big Port": can there be a smaller one?). It's just a slipway with no waiting room, toilets or the like. With your own boat, either anchor here or at Gallanach on the north side.

Walk. Muck is crossed by a single-track lane of 1½ miles, from the jetty at Port Mòr in the south to Gallanach in the north. It's not worth bringing a bike, and of course you can't bring a car.

Note that as well as the OS Landranger 39 and Explorer 397 maps covering all the Small Isles, Muck is also covered by Explorer 390 for Ardnamurchan.

• 🌍 Sean Bhaile was the former main village, abandoned when the islanders were evicted in the 19th century. It's little more than low outlines in the fields. It's also called A'Chille or Keil meaning the church at its south corner, and pieces of 7th / 8th century grave markers have been moved to within the Green Barn.
• 🌍 Caisteal nan Duin Bhain is a natural table of rock that was fortified with a drystone wall. It's maybe Iron Age, with other buildings added in late medieval times.
• 🌍 Toaluinn is the faint outline of a large oval building, believed to be Viking. Prehistoric pottery was found here.
• 🌍 Gallanach is the settlement at the north end of the road, with the island's best beach.
• 🌍 Ard nan Uan cairns are a pair at the tip of the promontory west of Gallanach. They're maybe Bronze Age, 2000 BC. Part of the north cairn has been used as the MacEwen family grave. Eilean nan Uan ("Isle of Lambs") is the tidal islet below.
• 🌍 Eilean nan Each ("Isle of Horses") is the uninhabited islet to the north, with Eilean nan Uan almost bridging between it and Muck.
• 🌍 Beinn Airein at 137 m / 449 ft is the highest point, with views of the island and beyond.
• 🌍 Fang Mhor is a promontory that appears to have been walled off to create a defensive dun, date unknown. There are sea cliffs along this part of Muck.

Flying the flag for agriculture on Muck

• Hike: Walk Highlands describe walks to Caisteal an Duin Bhain (2 miles), Gallanach and Aird nan Uan (4 miles), Beinn Airein (4 miles) and a circuit of the island (8 miles).

• The Green Shed in Port Mòr is an arts and crafts shop, generally open in summer whenever ferries are calling.

Bring your own provisions, the island cafe has closed.

Bring your own. There is no pub, off-licence, brewery or distillery.

Gallanach beach and distant view of Eigg

• The Bunkhouse, Port Mòr, ☏ +44 1687 462042, bunkhouse@isleofmuck.com. Self-catering hostel with 3 shared rooms and one double, plus small kitchen and living room. Can by rented by the bed or in its entirety for groups, including out-of-season. It's a quarter-mile north of the ferry pier. (updated Jul 2024)
• Port Mòr House is a self-catering house, summer only, with 9/10 bedrooms, sleeps 14. It's the white house west side of the bay from the pier; it no longer operates as a hotel. ☏ +44 1687 462218 or email ewanandjudy@gmail.com.
• Gallanach Lodge is an eight-bedroom luxury Nordic lodge at the north end of the island road. It's intended for shooting & fishing parties, but they may have availability for individuals.
• Gallanach self-catering cottages are available for let, weekly Saturday to Saturday in summer, more flexibly out of season, tel +44 1687 462362.

- New House is a 1930s timber cottage, with one double, two twins and four single rooms.

- Gallanach Cottage at the end of the road is a traditional cottage with three bedrooms.

- Seileachean, a converted stone barn, has one double bedroom with single top bunk.

• As of July 2024 there is 4G from all UK providers on Muck thanks to Hebnet, a community initiative that relays mainland networks from one island to another.

• Saturdays in summer a day-trip is possible from Muck to Eigg, with 3 hours ashore. Transfers are possible on other days to Eigg and Canna but not Rùm.
• Eventually you have to return to Mallaig on the mainland, and you can only reach Rùm by doubling back via Mallaig.