Isla Zapatera

Isla Zapatera is the second largest island in Lago Cocibolca (Lake Nicaragua) in the southern part of Nicaragua. The island is the largest land mass of the Parque Nacional Archipelago Zapatera and is known for lush tropical forests on the slopes of a dormant volcano as well as its archaeological sites containing statues and a large number of petroglyphs (stone carvings).

The Zapatera Archipelago National Park covers an area of 12,497 hectares including the large island of Zapatera as well as Isla el Muerto and eight much smaller nearby islands. Isla Zapatera lies just 1 Km from the mainland in a shallow part of the lake. The island centers around the dormant volcano (Volcan Zapatera) that originally formed the island. The volcano stands 629 meters high and a hiking trail takes visitors to the summit. Zapatera was established as a national park was in 1983. It covers 52 square kilometers.

There are some people living on the island, but no tourist facilities at all (unless you count the dock where your boat can land). Locals on the island use solar power and have their own water sources (usually filtered lake water with chemical treatment). Needless to say, only adventurous and adaptable travelers should try this and good Spanish skills are essential.

Getting to Isla Zapatera will take a bit of effort because there are no public transport options and very few tour guides who take groups there. Most people who visit the island hire a boat from Puerto Asese in Granada. Expect to pay US$100 or more because it's about 90 minutes each way and you'll probably be expecting the boat captain to wait while you sightsee. (Bring food, drink, mosquito spray and anything else you'll need because there are no stores on Isla Zapatera). If you plan to spend a night or more, make it clear to the boat captain you negotiate with and arrange return transportation (since there are not likely to be boats waiting to be hired on the islands).

Boat to the smaller islands, walk once you're on shore.

• Stone statues from indigenous pre-Colombian cultures
• Abundant wildlife and tropical forest on the slopes of the volcano

• Hike
• Observe nature
• Fish

Zona Archaeologica Zapatera

Statue from the Zapatera archaeological zone

The entire national park is designated as an archaeological site. A large number of statues, petroglyphs, and pottery shards were discovered on Isla Zapatera. Much of the knowledge of Zapatera's indigenous heritage comes from Swedish archaeologist, Carl Bovallius, who explored Zapatera in the 1880s. Bovallius found about 20 statues in a remote area on the northeast corner of the island. Archaeologists say that the islands was home to the pre-Columbian Chorotega people between 800 - 1350 AD. While some say the island was a ceremonial religious center, others remain unconvinced as to the site's function. Looting has been a constant problem with most of the significant finds having been plundered by local amateurs and foreign visitors. The San Francisco Convent Museum in Granada has a substantial collection of artifacts from the Zapatera site, but a much larger number of relics have been appropriated over the years for private collections or foreign museums.

The petroglyphs are much older than the Chorotega people, having been dated to 500 BC. Some of the largest petroglyphs are on Isla el Muerto. Anthropologists have theorized that the petroglyphs may have been a type of map, giving directions to other sites on the lake.

There are no vendors or stores anywhere in the park.

There are no restaurants on any of the islands around Zapatera.

Bring water with you. There are no sources of potable water on the island.

There are no hotels or lodges on the island though it may be possible to arrange accommodation at the Santa Maria farm or the Sonzapote cooperative. If you can find accommodation, it will likely be with an indigenous family who make space for you and are willing to provide basic meals in exchange for a reasonable payment (probably a few hundred cordoba). Ask the boatman who takes you to the island, if he knows the island, he can probably arrange things for you.

The islands are remote with few inhabitants. Do not expect cell service, though you shouldn't be surprised to find that signals do reach places close to shore.

• Granada
• Isla de Ometepe