Introduction
This is a teardown of a Samsung WB690 bought second-hand. It contains large capacitors for the camera flash, which can shock you if you're not careful. If you follow these steps yourself, proceed with caution and make sure you know what you're doing. If you decide to disassemble a working lens, or partially working lens, be prepared for high chance it won't work at all afterwards.
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First, ensure the cover is at least mostly unclipped on all sides.
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Then, focus on fully popping off the front cover. Prying in the position shown above the battery cover is the most consistently effective. You may need to use a bit more force for this step.
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Be careful not to touch the capacitors or the internals of the camera.
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Even if the battery has been removed, the capacitors likely still hold a charge, enough to give you a nasty shock.
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Set your multimeter to the highest voltmeter setting (e.g. 600V on the one shown) and ensure the probes are connected to the correct terminals.
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Connect the red probe to the solder on the red wire and the black probe to the solder on the black wire.
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WARNING: Be careful not to touch the two probes together while doing this. It would short-circuit the capacitor and dump a large amount of charge very quickly. Also be careful not to touch the metal on the probes.
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Look at the meter reading. It could start in the >300V range. If you don't see a reading, make sure the probes are making a good connection. If they are, and you still don't see a reading, drop the voltmeter setting a couple of notches (e.g. to 20V) and try again. The capacitors may already be (mostly) discharged.
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You should see the voltage dropping as the capacitor discharges through the multimeter.
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Continue to discharge until the voltage reduces to a significantly lower level (e.g. <20V), then switch to a more sensitive voltmeter setting (e.g. 20V) to maintain accuracy and continue discharging.
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Discharge speed will slow down the lower the voltage gets. Once it slows to a crawl at a low voltage (<10V), you can intentionally short-circuit the capacitor with the probes to quickly discharge the remaining charge.
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Verify the capacitors are fully discharged using the multimeter at a more sensitive setting (e.g. 2V). The reading should be at or close to 0V. Note: If the reading starts increasing it's because the multimeter is starting to charge the capacitors. Short-circuit them one last time and turn off the multimeter.
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The trickiest part is corner by the HDMI cover. The arrow in the second image points to where the plastic cover is sandwiched between two other pieces. Don't apply extra force to the back cover until this clip is popped out.
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Unclip the ribbon cable with a pry bar.
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Remove the screen. It might be slightly stuck on one side with glue, but it should come off without much effort.
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Place it face down in the back case to protect the screen.
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Unclip the main board ribbon cable with a pry bar by pulling the black tab up and away from the cable.
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Remove the ribbon cable from the slot.
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Remove the screw holding in the main board.
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Remove the main board, pulling up and away from where the ports are poking through. You may want to help unstick the ports by pushing on them from the outside at the same time.
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Unclip the side ribbon cable.
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WARNING: If your lens is currently working, there's a high chance the following steps will break it. There are a lot of moving parts and correct reassembly is tricky. Even if you do reassemble it correctly, you might introduce extra friction which will cause the lens to jam.
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Push down on the lens to remove it from the outside housing.
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Note the alignment highlighted by the red boxes.
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The circled nubs follow the tracks on the inside of the housing, translating rotation into linear motion extending the lens outwards.
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Layer alignment.
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Most layers have a rotational symmetry of order 3 (i.e. they're identical after rotating them 120 degrees), but these layers have one correct orientation.
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The circled parts of the two layers must align. Pushing the aligned layers together closes the outer lens cover.
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