Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra Laser AF and Motherboard Cover Replacement

Step 1

Let your phone's battery drain to below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

I try to find the correct celsius value to heat the bag or direct temp to the sides of the phone. A reference should be a good thing to have. I have a heat bed I use to heat it up. I think 80c can work

Tobias Müllauer -

The iOpener did not heat up enough to preform this step. I had to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive. Only takes about 30 seconds to get enough heat on the phone to start to be able to pull the shells apart.

Anthony S -

Step 2

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:
There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.
The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Step 3

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

I found the suction cup included with the kit did not allow enough leverage to slide the pick into the phone. I ended up having to purchase their Anti-Clamp "Clampy" as well.

Once I used "Clampy" with a heat gun, the phone opened right up.

Anthony S -

Step 4

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted near the bottom of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom right corner.
Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 7

Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom left corner.
Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Take your time with this corner, I ended up breaking the rear glass here. I found sliding the pick in deeper and cutting the adhesive from the inside out worked the best.

Anthony S -

Step 10

Slide your opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive, stopping when you reach the power button.
Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.
Leave the pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top right corner.
Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 13

Slide the pick to the top left corner to slice the adhesive.
Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras or sensors.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.
Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top left edge.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top left corner.

Just use the very tip of the pick, go deeper when you feel it slide without much resistance. You will know when you get through all adhesive. The feeling is much more smooth.

Anthony S -

Step 15

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.
Slide the pick toward the bottom camera to slice through the remaining adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Step 16

Grab and remove the back cover.
If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.
If you're using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide.
If you're using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

Adhesive may be able to be reused when you assemble.

Anthony S -

Step 17

The wireless charging coil is lightly adhered to the battery.
Be careful not to strain or tear the display interconnect cable under the right side of the charging coil.
Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery.
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Apply a bit of heat here as well, with either a hair dryer of heat gun. It doesn't hurt. The pick has trouble cutting otherwise.

Anthony S -

Step 18

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard.
Repeat for the wireless charging coil press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 19

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the NFC antenna and charging coil.

Easy screws to loose. I use a magnetic mat so I can keep track of them.

Blue painters tape also works, due to very weak adhesive. Just set screws of the back until reassembly.

Anthony S -

Step 20

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 21

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.
Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.
Don't pry against the battery. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.
During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 22

Grab and remove the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame.
The wireless charging coil holds these parts together.

Step 23

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

When reassembling, plug phone in and turn on. Make sure everything is connected correctly.

Anthony S -

Step 24

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the laser autofocus module press connector.

Step 25

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 26

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover and the frame.
Pry up on the cover to unclip it from the frame.
Remove the motherboard cover and laser AF module.
During reassembly, press down on the cover to secure its clips to the frame.

Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra Laser AF and Motherboard Cover Replacement

Introduction

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Author

Clay Eickemeyer

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