Microsoft Surface Pro 11 Battery Replacement

Written By: Spencer Day

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Microsoft Surface Pro 11 Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace a dead or worn-out battery in your Surface Pro 11.

Your devices's lithium-ion battery has a limited lifespan. If your Surface Pro 11 doesn't hold a charge, dies unexpectedly, or requires more frequent charging, it might be time to replace the battery.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

You'll need replacement screen adhesive to complete this repair.

Note: Surface Pro 11 replacement parts differ depending on whether your device has an LCD or OLED screen. Before purchasing parts and consumables, make sure you know which type of screen your device has so you can select the correct parts for your repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before starting this repair, allow your laptop's battery to drain below 25%. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.
Unplug all cables and fully shut down your laptop.

Step 2

Lay your Surface Pro screen side down and open the kickstand to about a 90‑degree angle.

Step 3

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the 2.4 mm‑long screw securing the SSD.
Removing the SSD also functions as a battery disconnect and should be done before all major repairs.

Step 4

Don't pull up at a sharp angle, or you may damage the SSD and its socket.
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the notched edge of the SSD enough that you can grip the bottom corners with your fingers.
Use your fingers or tweezers to pull the SSD straight out of its socket and remove it.
During reassembly, getting the SSD fully inserted in its socket can be tricky. If you're having trouble, hold the SSD in place and use the flat end of a spudger to push on the notched edge.

Step 5

Use your finger to firmly press down on the SSD door indent until the door pops up.
Remove the SSD door.

Step 6

When separating the screen from the frame, don't insert your tool more than the following measurements on the given edges. Otherwise, you may damage your device's internals.
2 mm on the left, right, and bottom edges
Don't insert your tool at all near the front facing camera on the top edge
8 mm along the top edge (everywhere besides the front facing camera area)

Step 7

Mild adhesive secures the perimeter of the screen to the frame. Heating the screen will soften the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the right edge of the screen for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun. But be careful, as the screen and battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 8

Remember not to insert your pick more than 2 mm on the right edge.
Insert the tip of an opening pick under the screen near the bottom of the right speaker cutout.
Slide your pick towards the bottom edge and slightly rotate it so the tip goes under the notch in the screen.

Step 9

Slide your pick down the right edge to separate the adhesive securing it.
Leave your pick inserted under the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Step 10

Heat the bottom edge of the screen with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive.

Step 11

Remember not to insert your pick more than 2 mm on the bottom edge.
Insert a second pick under the bottom right corner of the screen and slide it along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave your second pick inserted under the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re‑sealing.

Step 12

Heat the left edge of the screen with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive.

Step 13

Remember not to insert your pick more than 2 mm on the right edge.
Insert a third pick under the bottom left corner of the screen and slide it up the left edge, stopping when you get to the bottom of the left speaker cutout.
Leave the pick inserted under the screen to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 14

Heat the top edge of the screen with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive.

Step 15

Insert a fourth pick under the screen near the top of the left speaker cutout.
Slide your pick towards the top edge and slightly rotate it so the tip goes under the notch in the screen.

Step 16

Remember not to insert your pick more than 8 mm on the top edge.
Slide the pick along the top edge and stop before you get to the front facing camera.

Step 17

Be very careful not to touch the front facing camera lens with your tool.
Remove the pick enough that it can pass above the front facing camera.
Slide the pick along the top edge until it's past the camera.

Step 18

Insert your pick 8 mm under the screen and slide it to the top right corner to separate the remaining adhesive.

Step 19

Insert the flat edge of two picks under the screen, below the two speaker cutouts.
Use the picks to gently pry up the screen, fully separating it from the frame.
Don't try to remove the screen yet, as a ribbon cable still connects it to your device.
If the screen feels stuck anywhere, use your pick to separate the adhesive in that area. Remember not to insert your pick too far under the screen.

Step 20

Once the screen is fully separated, flip the top edge over the bottom edge and lay the screen down flat, being careful not to strain the ribbon cable.

Step 21

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the conductive tape off the copper shield, near the center of your device.

Step 22

Insert an arm of a pair of angled tweezers in one of the gaps on the edge of the screen cable shield.
Use your tweezers to gently pry up and remove the shield.
Try to deform the shield as little as possible—you'll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 23

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the notched corner of the screen cable press connector and pry up to disconnect it.

Step 24

Grip the screen with both hands and remove it.
During reassembly, follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive and install your screen.

Step 25

Use the flat end of a spudger or a clean fingernail to flip up the metal buckle on the Surface Connect port cable.

Step 26

Use tweezers or your fingers to firmly grip the Surface Connect port cable close to the connector head and pull it straight out of the socket.
During reassembly:
Remove any adhesive liners from the Surface Connect port cable or bottom edge of the fan.
Use tweezers or your fingers to insert the cable's connector into its socket.
Flip the metal buckle over the connector and firmly press around its perimeter until it snaps into place.
Firmly press the cable into place on the fan to secure it with the adhesive.

Step 27

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 3.6 mm‑long screws securing the Surface Connect port to the frame.

Step 28

Mild adhesive secures the Surface Connect port cable to the bottom edge of the fan.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the Surface Connect port cable for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to lightly heat the cable. But be careful, as the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 29

Grip the Surface Connect cable by the end with the motherboard connector and peel the cable from the fan.
During reassembly:
Don't secure the Surface Connect port cable with adhesive yet—wait until you've reconnected it. Otherwise, the cable may not reach its socket if positioned incorrectly.
If you're reinstalling the original port, the adhesive should be sticky enough to reuse.
If the adhesive isn't sticky enough, or if you're installing a new port and it doesn't come with adhesive pre‑installed, apply a strip of thin, double‑sided tape to the bottom edge of the fan (not the cable). If your tape has a liner on top, don't remove it.

Step 30

Lift the Surface Connect port out of its recess in the frame and remove it.
During reassembly:
Put the Surface Connect port into place so its cutouts go over their frame posts. Make sure the port is fully in its cutout—the outer edge should be flush with the frame.
Install the two screws that secure the port.
The screws will be drawn to the magnet in the port. You may need to use a pair of tweezers to hold them in place.

Step 31

Use the point of a spudger to lift the two pieces of silver conductive tape from the top left corner of the thermal module.

Step 32

Use the point of a spudger to lift the black conductive tape on the thermal module's top edge, detaching it from the frame.

Step 33

Use the point of a spudger to lift the black locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector, near the center of the fan's left edge.
Use tweezers to grip the cable's plastic pull tab and gently slide the cable out of its socket.

Step 34

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the 14 screws securing the thermal module and fan assembly:
Eight 2.6 mm‑long screws
One 2.8 mm‑long screw near the top of the fan's left edge
One 3.7 mm‑long screw near the center of the battery's bottom edge
Four 2.4 mm‑long CPU tension screws in the center of the thermal module
During reassembly, first install the four CPU tension screws in an "X" pattern. For example: top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left.

Step 35

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the left and right edges of the thermal module, near where the copper heat pipes bend.
Thermal paste bonds the thermal module to the motherboard. Depending on the age of your laptop and condition of the paste, this may take some force.

Step 36

Don't lift the assembly by the fan or you risk bending the thermal module.
Use two hands to lift the thermal module straight up and remove it.

Step 37

During reassembly:
If you're installing a new thermal module, check if the bottom has thermal paste pre‑installed. If it does, do not apply thermal paste—you only need to clean the CPU.
Follow this guide to clean the thermal module and CPU and apply thermal paste.
If you're installing a new thermal module, you don't need to clean it.

Step 38

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the battery press connector from a short edge and disconnect it.
Prying from the long edge risks damaging the connector and socket.