iPhone XS Rear-Facing Cameras Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 37

iPhone XS Rear-Facing Cameras Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to remove and replace the rear cameras in the iPhone XS. The rear camera assembly consists of two individual modules: one wide-angle camera and one telephoto camera. Both modules are replaced as a single unit.

Both iPhone XS and XS Max use the same camera; the part can be swapped freely between the two models.

Note: This guide instructs you to completely detach the display cables and remove the display assembly in order to better access the rear cameras—however, it's possible to remove and replace the rear cameras with the display cables still connected. Advanced readers may skip disconnecting the display in order to save time, as long as the display is properly supported and the display cables are not damaged.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Der Original Akku ist codiert. Egal, ob man einen zweiten Apple Original Akku oder einen neuen Fremdakku einbaut erscheint bereits in den Einstellungen eine "Wichtige Batterienachricht" mit einem roten Punkt. "Unbekanntes Bauteil" und die "Informationen zum Batteriezustand" sind nicht verfügbar. Diese Nachricht verbleibt immer und nervt auf Dauer immens.

Der Akku muss angelernt werden und dieses können von jetzt an nur authorisierte Apple Servicebetriebe und diesen ist es durch Apple verboten die notwendige Info weiterzugeben.

Dies ist nicht zu verwechseln mit der bereits bekannten Rekalibrierung seit iOS 14.5.

Seit dieser neuen Codierung kostet der Akkutausch bei Apple auch nicht mehr 75 € sondern aktuell 99 € (Stand Novmber 2023 in Deutschland).

Damit sind künftig alle nicht authorisierten Servicebetriebe raus - denn wer will schon dauernd diese Mitteilung auf dem Bildschirm haben?

Überlegt vorher, ob unter diesen Bedingungen ein eigener Akkutausch noch sinnvoll ist .....

Manfred Wachtel -

Lieben Dank @manfredwachtel ! Mehr Infos dazu haben wir auch in unserem Blog zusammengefasst: https://de.ifixit.com/News/78890/teileko...

Sandra Hiller -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

The anti clamp is a much needed tool

It makes opening the phone a breeze.

Lon

[deleted] -

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

It seems like I need a third hand to do this. To hold the phone; hold the suction cup; and push the pick in the space.

haroldappel -

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Step 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 14

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 15

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Open from the LEFT. Photo confused me and I came very close to damaging my phone by opening from the wrong side.

charlotte -

Step 16

Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

The ribbon makes the 1.3 mm screw a little tricky. Use one hand to hold the display at a 90 degree or smaller angle to create the slack necessary to get the screw driver in place.

charlotte -

I tracked my screws by using my kids fridge magnets to hold each screw size and placing a piece of masking tape below with the screw size.

charlotte -

I stripped a screw ugh

Tresia -

Where can i buy a One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

Ismail -

FYI: I used a tiny piece of scotch tape to hold those 1mm screws in place while aligning the magnetic screwdriver. Otherwise they are so tiny the magnetic bit pulls them right out the hole.

Jeff Miller -

Step 17

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

During reassembly, pause here to check function. Gently reattach the top of the display to the base to test face ID.

charlotte -

Step 18

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 19

Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.

goblazers -

Step 20

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Shine a bright light here to help you align the connector. Eventually, the right side snapped in first.

charlotte -

On reassembly, use the pad of your fingertip to reconnect.

charlotte -

Step 21

Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.

natialollie -

Step 22

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd

Siddhartha Chowdhury - 04/03/20

No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.

Arthur Shi - 04/03/20

Step 23

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

I wish the reassembly directions were separate. I forgot to pause here to do the waterproof seal.

charlotte -

Geez, I blazed right past that small line to replace the waterproof seal. Needs to be called out much larger.

Jeff Miller -

Step 24

Remove the two screws securing the rear camera cover:
One 1.4 mm Y000 screw
One 2.0 mm Phillips screw

Step 25

Lift the camera cover from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it.
To reinstall the camera cover, follow the images exactly in reverse: first, lower the outside edge until the two protruding gold tabs on the cover are slotted securely into the bracket on the outer edge of the camera module. Then, hinge the cover closed.
If the two gold tabs are not seated correctly, the cover will not lay flat.

Step 26

Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the two camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

Step 27

Insert both tips of your tweezers or a pointed pry tool at the bottom right corner of the camera, between the camera assembly and the iPhone's frame.
Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.
The camera assembly is not glued down, but it is firmly press-fit into place. A spudger or plastic pry tool may not be strong enough to lever it out.

Step 28

Remove the rear-facing camera assembly.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

436473 Reputation

2 comments

I have some dark spots on my main camera and i notice some dust behind the lens cover, do you think it as to do with it?

Thank you

Emmanuel Neff - 20/09/21

hola, les hago una consulta a los técnicos. Tengo un Xs que empezó con un problema de cámara, el problema es que algunas veces enfoca y otras no. Yo abro la cámara y la principal (1x) si no está muy cerca el objeto que quiero no lo enfoca. Que puede ser? Tengo q cambiarle la cámara?

Santino Guantay -