iPhone XS Lower Speaker Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 50

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

The iPhone XS uses both the primary loudspeaker and the earpiece speaker together to produce stereo sound. Use this guide to replace the primary loudspeaker at the bottom of the phone only. Replacing this speaker can help resolve issues such as loss of sound, poor sound quality, and distorted sound.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Der Original Akku ist codiert. Egal, ob man einen zweiten Apple Original Akku oder einen neuen Fremdakku einbaut erscheint bereits in den Einstellungen eine "Wichtige Batterienachricht" mit einem roten Punkt. "Unbekanntes Bauteil" und die "Informationen zum Batteriezustand" sind nicht verfügbar. Diese Nachricht verbleibt immer und nervt auf Dauer immens.

Der Akku muss angelernt werden und dieses können von jetzt an nur authorisierte Apple Servicebetriebe und diesen ist es durch Apple verboten die notwendige Info weiterzugeben.

Dies ist nicht zu verwechseln mit der bereits bekannten Rekalibrierung seit iOS 14.5.

Seit dieser neuen Codierung kostet der Akkutausch bei Apple auch nicht mehr 75 € sondern aktuell 99 € (Stand Novmber 2023 in Deutschland).

Damit sind künftig alle nicht authorisierten Servicebetriebe raus - denn wer will schon dauernd diese Mitteilung auf dem Bildschirm haben?

Überlegt vorher, ob unter diesen Bedingungen ein eigener Akkutausch noch sinnvoll ist .....

Manfred Wachtel -

Lieben Dank @manfredwachtel ! Mehr Infos dazu haben wir auch in unserem Blog zusammengefasst: https://de.ifixit.com/News/78890/teileko...

Sandra Hiller -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

The anti clamp is a much needed tool

It makes opening the phone a breeze.

Lon

[deleted] -

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

It seems like I need a third hand to do this. To hold the phone; hold the suction cup; and push the pick in the space.

haroldappel -

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Step 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 14

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 15

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Open from the LEFT. Photo confused me and I came very close to damaging my phone by opening from the wrong side.

charlotte -

Step 16

Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

The ribbon makes the 1.3 mm screw a little tricky. Use one hand to hold the display at a 90 degree or smaller angle to create the slack necessary to get the screw driver in place.

charlotte -

I tracked my screws by using my kids fridge magnets to hold each screw size and placing a piece of masking tape below with the screw size.

charlotte -

I stripped a screw ugh

Tresia -

Where can i buy a One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

Ismail -

FYI: I used a tiny piece of scotch tape to hold those 1mm screws in place while aligning the magnetic screwdriver. Otherwise they are so tiny the magnetic bit pulls them right out the hole.

Jeff Miller -

Step 17

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

During reassembly, pause here to check function. Gently reattach the top of the display to the base to test face ID.

charlotte -

Step 18

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 19

Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

In my phone the connector made poor contact with the socket resulting in no sound audible through the phone receiver/headset. There was an overhang of insulation close to the socket which I believe may have prevented a good connection. So if you have these kinds of audio problems you might see if this is the problem.

goblazers -

Step 20

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Shine a bright light here to help you align the connector. Eventually, the right side snapped in first.

charlotte -

On reassembly, use the pad of your fingertip to reconnect.

charlotte -

Step 21

Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Reassembly: reconnecting the press connectors upon reassembly was so hard, even for the ones not seated in a recessed location !! It took me two days to get them reconnected. What helped me was to shine bright lights on all sides of the iPhone and then hold the iPhone vertically like a book and press it in that way. They are now all in, but the touchscreen functionality has disappeared :( so I will need to reconnect that one.

natialollie -

Step 22

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

Will replacing camera and sensors fix damaged face I'd

Siddhartha Chowdhury - 04/03/20

No, FaceID will be disabled because the original sensors are paired with the logic board.

Arthur Shi - 04/03/20

Step 23

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

I wish the reassembly directions were separate. I forgot to pause here to do the waterproof seal.

charlotte -

Geez, I blazed right past that small line to replace the waterproof seal. Needs to be called out much larger.

Jeff Miller -

Step 24

Remove the five screws securing the two brackets below the Taptic Engine and main speaker:
One 1.0 mm tri-point Y000 screw
Two 1.3 mm Phillips screws
One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

Bonjour,

Plus pratique avec une Y000. Dans mon cas c’était impossible en Y00.

Bonne journée. :)

Pascal Prugna -

got stuck on the 1.8 mm screw and had to abort. The Phillips head provided “PH000” didn’t quite fit and stripped the screw.

Jimmy Zhang -

kit doesn’t come with the right screwdrivers for this step!! :(

R.J. -

I ended up skipping this step through 32. It’s not necessary to take the speaker and taptic thing off. I just used the thin black spudger flat edge and pried under the battery on the L-shaped edge and dislodged the adhesive and then did the same on the top edge. You will end up bending the old battery but that’s ok—just don’t poke it. keep poking the flat edge of the spudger in there kind of like a knife to break the adhesive. once you get at least two spots of the adhesive pulled, the rest comes up quite easily when you lift the whole battery.

R.J. -

I agree with R.J. The bracket screws are minute. They are much easier to remove than to put back. Avoid taking them out if you can.

Kevin Bennett -

Step 25

The brackets are lightly adhered in place.
Gently lift to unstick and remove each bracket, being careful not to bend it.
If necessary, apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. (Putting an iOpener on the brackets is not recommended, as this may bend the spring contacts along the top.)

Step 26

Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker connector cover.

screew is 1,81mm

Boni Zei - 28/04/20

Step 27

Remove the speaker connector cover.

Step 28

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

Step 29

When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the speaker flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, bend the cable toward the battery so the speaker has room to come out.
Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker slightly.
When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.

Step 30

While prying up the speaker, use tweezers to peel away the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker.
If necessary, apply a little heat to soften the adhesive and make the bumper strip easier to separate.

Step 31

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

Step 32

Remove the speaker.
The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.
To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

Why is the speaker gasket not included or offered as required parts when you sell a battery?

Daryl - 15/09/22

I thought my speaker gasket was also missing, however looking back into the part box I found it tucked under the flap at the other (unopened) side of the box. Glad I took a second (and closer) look. IFIXIT needs to do a better job securing very small parts as it is very easy for these types of parts to get jostled during shipping and then could fall out or stuck in the box unnoticed. I've purchased iFixit products for more than 10 years and am super satisfied their quality in parts and provided instructions. Hopefully they'll make some adjustments to their shipping containers as I'd love to continue using them.

gelatofanatic -

My speaker gasket was stuck to the inside of the box also. Unfortunately it has the back peal removed and has stuck itself to the cardboard box. I tried to remove it but it was firmly attached. Bummer. This is my first iFixIt. Please package it more carefully as the other person said.

Austin Abercrombie -

I can't find mine in the part box. Is it possible it was excluded?

Jeff Feazell -

It might have fallen out. Search in the crevasses of the box. If you still cannot find it contact iFixit.

Dane Elliott-Dyson -

Update to last comment, I looked again at the listing for the battery with and without the "fix it kit". I ordered without, and apparently, the speaker gasket is part of the kit. Will need to order separately and take the phone apart again and replace the seal and battery adhesive again to install the gasket.

Jeff Feazell -

It's kind of ridiculous that the gasket is ONLY included with the kit, that includes a bunch of tools that I already have too many of (yes, I've bought several screen kits...). The fact is, to properly do the repair, you require the gasket. As such, it really should be included with the battery part and not only sold with the entire kit. Most of us do not need yet a nother suction cup, more screwdrivers (ok, maybe the bits), etc. My first few orders, I bought the kit because the extra cost gave me more bits, handle, spudgers (always need more), etc. However, I didn't need any of those for this repair so I opted for only the part - the battery.

I am so irked that I have to redo this again just because ifixit put the gasket with the kit and not the part that requires it. It's not even highlighted AT ALL that the gasket is required and not included. I'll have to find a way to bring this up to ifixit.

Jim Shaw -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

436473 Reputation

2 comments

hi there need a little help need the bracket part where the five screws go one of the tabs brock on the one i have

william albertson - 18/12/18

Had the same problem. One of the little tab / springs was damaged on the bracket below the main speaker. Didn't think it would be that much of an issue until I started using phone. On occasion, pressure on the lower part of screen creates crazy phantom touchscreen activity. Cannot locate a replacement anywhere on the site.

ELLO WEE -