iPhone XR Screen Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb

Comments: 164

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

If your iPhone XR screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when your phone is powered on, use this guide to restore your iPhone to working order with a new screen, a.k.a. display assembly.

This guide is meant to be used with complete replacement screens only. The replacement screen should come pre-mounted on a frame and have a thin metal LCD shield pre-installed on the back. If that LCD shield is missing, follow this more in-depth guide to replace the screen while keeping your old LCD shield.

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
There's a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.

In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!

Erica - 27/07/20

Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.

Chilinh Nguyen -

I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.

J Olin -

Can it be dead?

Lulu navarro -

If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?

David Julian Krause -

how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?

Beth Jackson -

Spoiler alert! I just followed all the steps and if you bought the anti-clamp you might save a lot of time and some unreversible steps.

I recommend that you read all the steps before beginning and follow the steps up to the point where the guide removes the screen (step 23). After that read again the precautions of step 41 and try the next thing:

- Using something like the iOpener hot bag, heat up the back side of the phone where the battery is glued to for some minutes

- Alternatively use a 3d printer heat bed at 60 degrees Celsius

- Once the back of the phone is hot to the touch, enough to make it uncomfortable to the touch, find a portion of the battery with a smooth surface and attach the anti-clamp to it and the back of the phone

- Follow the steps 4 and 5 to detach the battery from the frame

If this procedure works you will not have to remove some elements such as:

- lower speaker black tape (step 28)

- lower speaker water proof gasket (step 33)

I hope that someone find this helpful. Happy fixing!!

Julio Beltran -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

This looks like a repeat of Step 3.

GenjideGaulle -

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.

[deleted] -

Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.

Arthur Shi -

Step 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.

Colin Wylie - 10/01/21

When using an iOpener, rest the glossy (transparent) side on the phone so it contacts the phone and conducts heat easily

Afiq -

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.

Dave - 15/07/22

An edit to my above comment: by digitzer, I mean the LCD shield. My apologies.

Dave -

Yeah it’s helpful to just look at the screen they sent you. You’ll have a better idea of where to pry or stick your razor blade under!

ryandlent -

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick at the marked spots, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?

Irwin Cantor -

You can use some Isopropyl alcohol in a syringe with a thin needle to soften even more the adhesive around the screen. But be careful so as not to overdo it. Just a few drops. It will become more easier to remove the screen.

Dan Brock -

Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!

ingwis -

Hi there!

Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Step 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 14

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 15

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!

Doug Trout -

If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.

Richard Deubler -

What about the sticky black adhesive clinging to the inside of the case?

Ronald -

Step 16

Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.
Remove the bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.

Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.

Erica - 27/07/20

+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.

Shan Potti - 24/12/20

Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…

Shan Potti - 24/12/20

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 18

Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.
Remove the bracket.

What if the screw is damaged and you can’t get one out?

Kashawn Benjamin -

Same issue here. These screws are a lot thighter than the others. Maybe add a caution notice to be patience with these ones.

What you can try is superglue to make it attached to the screw.

Lennard -

Step 19

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 20

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?

Andrew Pierson - 12/05/20

Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged

Daniel Maldonado - 30/04/21

Step 21

Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:
One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw
One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw
Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws
Remove the bracket.
Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It's secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

Phillips screw 1.3 mm on last step is not working. The small clipped bracket has been damaged. This screw perhaps should be the first, before 1.2 Y000. - To be confirmed by others.

Dmitri - 25/08/19

I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!

Jeff Suovanen - 02/09/19

I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff

fabianowens - 13/09/19

I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.

Stow - 08/04/21

Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please

Squishy Horses - 01/07/20

I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?

Phillip Gross - 22/12/20

My clip broke too! on iphone XR. Any word on necessity?

Beth Buer - 02/07/20

I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.

Carlos Oulman - 11/09/20

I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.

Kyaw-Zin Win - 25/09/20

this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.

Justin Parsons -

I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.

pgrobin - 29/11/20

Is this small bracket important if broken??

Phillip Gross - 22/12/20

Mine is broken

Easy Repair - 02/01/21

Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??

Marcos Fernández - 08/01/21

I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?

Larry Jorgenson -

On the 1.3 mm screw I actually chose not to remove it. I broke it loose then used the tip of the spudger to simply twist the bracket out of the way, with the screw still attached. Then I could remove the larger bracket.

mpalma - 16/05/21

Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:

1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.

2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.

3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.

Daniel Brehm - 26/05/21

The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.

Debbie Thompson -

None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?

Jonatious Joseph Jawahar -

Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws

Graham Hammell -

Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked

Graham Hammell -

I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all

steve.arfa -

Broken the clip. Is this important??

kyledrumtutor -

Yikes, broke mine too. Oh god. Think perhaps the delicate 1.3mm should come out first when everything else is secure...

Ronald -

Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.

doug68242 -

I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(

It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.

It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.

Richard Croyle -

Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)

Richard Croyle - 16/12/23

do you think it would be possible to repair without the use of microsoldering?

i brought a new bracket set for the xr and replaced the old one but even with that nfc/apple pay still doesn't work. i'm questioning if i put a wrong size screw or something else

prolificgmabit -

Step 22

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.

Tristan England - 25/10/19

Step 23

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

unclear if this is where screen removal ends

Daniel Maldonado - 30/04/21

I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.

amclean78 -

I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!

Martin Kappeyne -

Step 24

Remove the four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:
Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm Y000 screw

Do you really need to do step 21-30, because it says to replace, do it in reverse. Which means you are taking the components off and putting them back on without touching the screen? sorry if this is a dumb question, i’ve never done this before.

ExplodingRage - 20/05/20

Good question! It depends on which guide you are completing. If you are replacing the screen, you do need to complete steps 21-30, in order to remove the front assembly and transfer it to your replacement screen. The front assembly contains the Face ID hardware, which is biometrically linked to the logic board.

Now, if you are completing other guides, you may not need to remove the front assembly. Guides should have the steps slotted in only if they are pertinent to the procedure.

Arthur Shi - 20/05/20

amclean78 -

Im reassembling and notice there are no threaded screw holes to secure the speaker/sensor assembly on the new display. no way to secure it at all. Do i not need to secure it?

Ashley Fitzgerald - 25/05/20

Hi Ashley,

There should definitely be screw holes to secure the assembly to the new display. If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support, and we will sort things out for you!

Arthur Shi - 26/05/20

Same. No screw holes. Now what?

M Schmidt - 03/02/21

Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

Arthur Shi - 03/02/21

Step 25

Using tweezers, gently flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

I don’t understand. It clearly appears that one should stop disassembling after this step. Peeling off the tape here should provide access to the solder connections. Why remove a bunch of other adhered parts? ESD concerns?

Of course, taking care not to transmit heat to the screen assembly below would be prudent. But it’s unlikely much if any heat would conduct even without using any sort of insulating spacer, assuming one’s soldering technique is acceptable. With a thermal mass that small, overheating the connection is the big concern. Especially since it is lead-free solder.

(It has a high melting point. If you didn’t already know that, this is definitely not the best project to develop your soldering skills! You can still do it, but should def practice on similar connections until you feel proficient. Lifting a pad or overheating a nearby component are both dangers. Yet, the cost of the part is low enough you could buy two (just in case) and still come out ahead of Apple’s fee. Use flux or you’ll struggle!)

Ryan Lewis - 13/01/20

Hey Ryan,

You are right in that after this step, you could de-solder and replace the earpiece individually, if you choose to do some careful de-soldering and soldering. Alas, not everyone has the background and skill to do so! By instructing users to replace the complete assembly, we bypass the need to solder, and allow a wider audience to successfully complete the repair.

Arthur Shi - 13/01/20

When reassembling or placing the whole sensor module on a replacement screen, make sure to gently rock the speaker back into place. There is a rubber gasket lip around the speaker that must be seated all of the way against the screen and speaker grill to function properly. You should feel a gentle click when is goes in. If is not seated correctly it still easily can be screwed in making it difficult to tell if the speaker is in correctly.

Colin Wylie - 10/01/21

Hey, I actually ended up accidentally ripping that ribbon off the speaker. What happens now?

lanize -

Step 26

Use a hairdryer, a heat gun, or a heated iOpener applied to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Review steps 24-29 prior to doing this. Step 27 shows removing ambient sensor. It is attached….barely…to the rest of this assembly. I thought I was being overly cautions, and it still broke. Don’t be afraid to use heat. Do not force. Any resistance, do not force it.. Heat it up and then try. Other than that, sound and camera works fine, and it appears that FaceID works. Not my phone, so I can’t test that part without unlocking customer’s phone. No error messages appeared, so Im assuming all is good. With the touch home button on older models, if touch wouldn’t work, you’d receive a message as soon as you booted the phone up. OK.. That’s enough. Just be careful over the next 5 steps..

Shawn Bailey - 05/09/20

Step 27

Carefully slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel. If the microphone remains difficult to separate, apply more heat.

Step 28

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

what happens if the metal plate from the sensor separates from the flood illuminator module?

Yeison rodriguez -

At this point I thought looking at the image that I was lifting the speaker away and tore off the thin cable completely unaware. Please read and view the next two instruction stages before doing this one and then come back and ensure you keep the speaker very close to the screen as you do it.

Sally-ann -

Step 29

Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.

I tore the ribbon cable that connects to the light sensor, what do I do? will the phone work even if the sensor doesn’t?

wittyahole - -

When you are putting this clip on, you can practice without putting the light sensor on it. It takes some practice. I also may not stay on tightly but it's not a big deal.

J Olin -

This clip is a nightmare to get back on!

Ronald -

I gave up trying to get the clip back on. Appears to function properly without it.

Paul Chipelo -

Definitely one for the tweezers in order to get the brackets little sleeve to fit back over the backet/post sticking up

Jono Official -

Step 30

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.
The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

On picture two, the thin transparent thread between the sensor and the display is not the “very thin flex cable” they are talking about but just some glue remains. In my case this thread of glue was sticking onto the sensor in the exact same way which made me suspicious at first.

Konstantin - 18/02/21

The top part of the ambient light sensor easily breaks off from the bottom part. In that case do not despair. Pry the stuck part from the old display and transfer it to the new display. Put the assembly back together without glue. It should hold together just fine. Usually the auto brightness feature will still work.

Heiko Quant - 08/06/21

I broke the flex cable from the light sensor that connects to the rest. Anything I can do?

Matias Bedoya -

Step 31

If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
If the white diffuser strip is detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

so I was able to wiggle the part out and everything came out except the white strip, like a sticker coming off the bottom so my situation isn't displayed in the diagrams is that white strip important? should I remove it and try to adhere it to the bottom of the ambient light sensor?

Shadowind98 -

Step 32

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

To replace just the earspeaker, you will have to re-use the the flex assembly which is soldered to the earspeaker…….

the 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.

Alan Sears - 04/11/19

forgot to mention to take the clear plastic mold off from the old screen!!

BKimc - 06/11/19

Before attaching the sensor module to your replacement screen, ensure there is nothing blocking the earpiece screen on the new screen part. Mine had a mfg defect or something where there was a black foam like film on the outside of the speaker grill that I couldn’t remove with tape or sticky putty. I had to blow through the back of the grill with a computer duster compressed air can. Otherwise the call volume via the earpiece is extremely low, even when turned to max volume.

Colin Wylie - 10/01/21

Hey there, if I have an iPhone bit damage and I remove the top speaker and sensor and put it on my other iPhone XR. Will it work? It is original iPhone XR and please let me know

Nash G Krish - 15/01/21

The Face ID hardware is paired to the logic board and will not work if you transfer the front sensor assembly. Everything else should work.

Arthur Shi - 21/01/21

Are you suposeted to do it backwards when your done

hewi fewi - 31/01/21

super gemacht , danke der olli

schlüppi punkstrumpf - 21/03/21

The iPhone XR Screen Replacement Kit comes with an adhesive replacement on a blue plastic sheet. I didn’t know what this was and thought it was just protection for the screen during shipping.

Don’t throw it out - At this step 29 remove the old adhesive using this guide -> iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

Don’t be dumb like me.

Toby BC -

I would definitely add a step at the end –
30) Replace the adhesive seal -> iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement.

Steve Koontz -

How do I configure True Tone on the new screen?

Armando -

You need to use an EEPROM programmer. This will read code from the old screen to the new screen (assuming the replacement screen is of decent quality and supports True Tone programming). Check out YouTube and you will find plenty of information on how to do this. It really should be mentioned in screen replacement guides/videos, that if you just replace the screen without this specialist equipment, the True Tone function is not available. This is the same for all iPhones that have True Tone.

Mark Affleck - 05/01/23

i just saw recently where the ear hole in the new display was occluded - needed to drill it out. can see with a microscope - may want to check this before reassembly.

greg -

Add a comment: remove blue protective covers from back of screen when installing

Martin Kappeyne -

Thanks! I left them on until I got everything hooked up…..so frustrating lol

ryandlent -

Removed the big blue one but couldn’t get the little one with what looked like a QR code on it. It goes literally between the 2 cables.

ryandlent -

Thanks for the excellent guide! My replacement screen came with no sensor bracket, so I had to remove that from the old screen and remove the earpiece grill from the new screen (because the old grill remained attached to the bracket).

Goda Choi -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

206065 Reputation

47 comments

Man, you guys have the best jobs. You get to take apart electronics and make outstanding repair guides for a living!

[deleted] - 25/11/18

Where I can buy the screen?

Slava Slava - 17/12/18

Hi, you can buy the screen here in our store! Good luck with your repair!

Adam O'Camb - 18/12/18

What about the half dozen other steps of removing the back plate, transferring components and reassembling the device?

Conrad - 04/04/19

We put those steps into a separate guide, since not everyone needs them! If you need the more in-depth version, look here.

Jeff Suovanen - 20/08/19

My screen is replaced, but the small bracket straight from the ambient light sensor (step 26) is broken. Is this or will it become an issue?

hnsclmns - 12/06/19

Has anyone Noticed the LCDs on the X series replacement screens crack very easily or is it more than likely I’m just receiving cheap parts?

Zach Grangroth - 25/07/19

Any idea if you will be selling the iPhone XR Display Assembly Adhesive, Item code: IF408-008? If not, any recommendation for where to get this? Thank you,

james tullbane - 25/07/19

@jtullbane It’s available again—not sure why we had the product disabled. Thanks for asking!

Jeff Suovanen - 26/07/19

Thanks for the write up. I just replaced my screen with your kit and I’m unable to use FaceID. I’ve reset it it but I am unable to set it up fresh as the system can’t detect my face during the setup wizard. What is interesting though is that Animoji are correctly projecting my face. Does anyone’s have any tips for further debugging before I take it apart again

Andrew Matheny - 14/08/19

In my experience this is usually a hardware rather than a software issue. Double-check the tips in the final step. Make sure there’s no dust or fingerprints on the Face ID lenses and projector. Make sure nothing was damaged during the repair, particularly those thin flex cables. Reseat the connectors, reassemble, and test again. If all else fails, try reinstalling the old screen and see if you get Face ID back—in theory, a defective coating on the new screen could interfere with the Face ID hardware. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 14/08/19

When you buy the screen, does the necessary screwdrivers come with or do you have to purchase them separately?

Cody Kowalski - 10/09/19

Hi Cody,

If you purchase from iFixit, you have the option of buying either the replacement part by itself, or in a kit with all the necessary tools and adhesives. As of now, we don’t have a kit built for the screen, so you would need to supply your own tools.

Arthur Shi - 12/09/19

what is the small bracket for in step 18?

yhwhelrey0 - 14/09/19

Why caméra icône on the screen is gray

valayrih - 29/09/19

any know what the small bracket is for in step 20, that @iFixit tells us not to lose

Griffin - 29/12/19

Awesome repair guide. I just finished with my screen replacement and am amazed at how relatively simple it was. I only have one critique and that is to add a bit driver to the tools required. I didn’t realize that the ph000 and the y000 were thinner than regular bits so it took a little bit more time for me. All that said I am happy with my repair and thank you guys for the fight for the right to repair. You all are awesome

Eugene Rodriguez - 26/01/20

The adhesive for the XR is only available from the US store but I need to get it in the EU one. Is there a link for it in the EU store not the US one?

chris mccooey - 31/01/20

Does the part you sell have the lcd shield included?

also what is the thermal paste on this model….other sites say “thermal paste pre installed” what does that mean?

mamashannon4u - 02/02/20

Hi! The part we sell is only the LCD panel and digitizer only. It does not have the shield—you will have to transfer the part over. I’m not sure about thermal paste other sites are speaking off…it may be a poor translation to mean screen adhesives?

Arthur Shi - 03/02/20

I have an two iphone xr red, one donor and one to repair, the screen works on the donor vice versa but doesnt work on the other one(touch screen work on bottom half only…) you guys know why?

Antoine RD - 07/03/20

How do I fix my iPhone XR screen? Just the glass part though & I don’t have cutting wire to separate the glass screen from the lcd pls help me

Aleha - 04/04/20

tried it step by step, and my phone won’t cut on..

jj imel - 05/05/20

I am not a seasoned technician by ay stretch of the imagination, though I have tinkered with many things over the years. I followed the guide step by step, and took my sweet time. So far, the phone and all of it’s peripherals work like and look new, face recognition included. I highly recommend the iFixit Mako Driver kit for this project, but I suppose that as long as your tools are of a high quality, you won’t have many if any issues. I used a cheap low wattage heat gun, but after completing this project, I have drawn the conclusion that I really wish that I had the iOpener and am going it order soon. I also could have used a few high quality spudgers and prying/seperator tools. This was a great step by step guide, and I believe that a budding professional could likely take any advice that they can find on iFixit. Excellent work.

Ryan Kennedy - 30/06/20

I recommend buying the magnetic project pad or be well prepared to organize the screws and parts. The screws are tiny, so you might consider a head-mounted magnifier if your vision isn’t perfect. Excited to have this repair under my belt and not have to run to the genius bar for cracked screens any longer.

Jean-Paul Cozzatti Cozzatti - 08/07/20

When you buy a new screen are you buying a new LCD thingy ma bob, or do you have to buy that separately? If it’s all together I should be good to just follow these steps right?

Leah - 08/10/20

Hi Leah!

The LCD is just another term for the screen, so yes, all screen kits should come with it. However, iPhone screen kits get a little confusing. Some kits come with more components pre-installed than others. Our kit currently requires you to transfer the LCD shield from your existing iPhone, so it will require a few additional steps. Here is the proper guide for the part we sell.

Arthur Shi - 12/10/20

Im not an idiot and have done repairs to MacBooks and even replaced batteries on two iPads. I preface what I am about to say with that so if it’s simply user error, I no longer should be allowed to use an iPhone much less repair one.

I am on step 13 and I cannot for the life of me get the screws out for the battery piece. I have no less than 4 iPhone repair kits so that’s a minimum of 4 screwdrivers that should fit. Nope. They aren’t stripped (yet). I don’t know what help you can provide other than confirm that it’s possible that I was multiple kits for iPhone repair that simply don’t have the correct screwdriver gauge needed for an iPhone XR?

Cary Serrano - 08/10/20

Do you need to have the new screen reprogrammed from the old screen to keep true tone?

Jeremy Jett - 04/01/21

Great job. I would like to ask what speaker is it when you voice text? Thank you

Billy Ferguson - 12/02/21

I replaced my screen and lighting connector port assembly and now I dont have Airplay anymore. What did I do wrong and how do I fix that.

Wynand - 03/04/21

Thanks guys!! Helped me a lot!

A nice thing would have been to include removing the plastic “guides” for the earpiece, speaker and cameras. I couldn’t line mine up so I just went without it. Still works perfectly fine but for someone to whom this may be important, would have been a nice inclusion.

All in all, thanks for your help!!

tw1st3d -

Did this today. Happy with the new screen. Most difficult steps 27-29 and of course screwing little screws back. Took 2hrs.

Gary -

This guide helped me execute my screen replacement flawlessly! Thank you!

Mike Ross -

Will Face ID work? Or will it be bricked completely with a replacement screen. Will it work if I clone the data using the chip cloner?

Ethan V -

Hi Ethan,

If you successfully transferred over the front-facing sensor assembly to the new screen, Face ID will work!

Arthur Shi -

Thanks for the write up. Helped me to replace the screen on my partner’s phone.

Neil -

I have to say that I went into this one feeling pretty pessimistic, but figured I could live with a busted phone and an additional $120 for a display as my worst case scenario. So, when I turned it on and everything worked as new? Well howdy doo! These instructions were excellent. THANK YOU!

J Olin -

What kind of screwdriver I need for the 2 screws in the front

colin17harris -

Thank you! I have been using ifixit for years. Repair went great!

fehrfam6 -

Je viens de terminer avec succès le remplacement de l'écran sur iPhone XR selon ce tutoriel très bien fait.

2h30.

La principale difficulté concerne les manipulations de ces microscopiques vis.

Si elles tombent, considérez qu'elles sont perdues. Donc préparez l'environnement de travail en conséquence. ( une serviette de bain sur votre surface de travail afin d'éviter le rebondissement de la vis si elle vous échappe)

merci mille fois a Ifixit et au concepteur de ce auto.

Ricardo -

Just wanted to thank you amazing bunch of people for another perfect guide - you really are a godsend. Your work is much appreciated!

Matt -

Super gute Anleitung. Hat alles problemlos funktioniert. Vielen Dank dafür!!!

Christoph Franke -

Excellent instructions. Worth going at it very slowly, gently applying sufficient heat so things come apart. Took five minutes to get the screen out. The Ifixit kits and sucker puller work well + the magnetic work tray to keep everything contained. Most of all, the right screwdriver tips. I thought I had everything - but not a P000 Y shape! Many of the screws are unbelievable small, and make your fingers and your other tools look like sausages. One thing extra: my new screen came with a protective blue plastic layer on the back. When reassembling, steps 31-30, this needs to come off, otherwise it leave a tag sticking out. For removing all traces of the old glue seal and bedding it a new one, it's worth reading the separate instructions. Quite tricky and you get one shot. When it comes to the final mating of the parts, important to hook in the tangs at the top of the phone and keep some pressure on, to locate the bottom end correctly. Very happy when it all came back and functioning.

Iain Boyd -

Hello, good repair guide. But I feel that it is missing couple more steps to explain how to fit the adhesive of the new screen before to reassemble it all.

I have bought the screen with adhesive in the EU store of iFixit.

Julien Boeuf -

Thanks so much for this excellent guide! Another electronic device saved thanks to a clear and well written iFixit.com guide! Keep up the amazing work!!!

RealityMan -

Thanks so much for this excellent guide!

Javad -