iPhone 16 Pro Max Loudspeaker Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 16

iPhone 16 Pro Max Loudspeaker Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This guide shows how to remove and replace the loudspeaker or lower speaker in your iPhone 16 Pro Max.

If the sound coming through your iPhone's bottom speaker is faint or crackling, your loudspeaker may need to be replaced.

You'll need replacement back glass adhesive to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Tesa 61395 Tape

Step 1

Allow your iPhone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your iPhone.
Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.

Step 2

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 3

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.

Step 4

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 5

The next four steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down four steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
The Anti-Clamp applies suction to both the screen and the back glass. To open only the back glass, you need to secure the screen with tape. You can also check out the full instructions on how to use this tape.
Cut two strips of tape, apply them along the long edges of the iPhone, and fold them over the screen to secure it.
Make sure the tape is only securing the screen and not the back glass.

Step 6

Pull the Anti-Clamp's blue handle backward to unlock the arms.
With the back glass facing up, slide the arms over the right edge of your iPhone, with one suction cup on the back glass and the other on the screen. Center the suction cups near the bottom edge.
Support your iPhone so it rests level while between the Anti-Clamp's arms—a small box works well.
Squeeze the cups together to create suction.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 7

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle one full turn (360 degrees) or until the cups start to stretch.
As the cups stretch, make sure they stay vertically aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and apply tape for the cups to stick to.
If you don't have tape, you may warm up the suction cups to help them stick.

Step 8

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
Be careful not to heat the iPhone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.
Wait up to a minute for the adhesive to separate and a gap to form between the back glass and the frame.
If a gap doesn't appear after one minute, apply more heat and rotate the handle a quarter turn. Let the Anti‑Clamp and time do the work for you.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Remove the Anti-Clamp using the pull tabs on the suction cups.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 9

The next two steps show how to create an initial gap using a suction handle.
Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
You can also use an iOpener to heat the back glass. Follow these instructions to heat and apply the iOpener properly.

Step 10

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
If a gap doesn't appear, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 11

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the following steps, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the following areas:
A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Step 12

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
If the adhesive feels difficult to slice, reheat the edge for a minute and try again.
Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 14

Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.
Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.
Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge and top-right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 16

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, stopping above the volume up button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Step 18

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.
Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping below the volume down button.
Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 19

At this point, the back glass should be free from the frame. If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with your pick to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.
Swing open the back glass to the right of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.
Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.

Step 20

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Step 21

Lift and remove the battery connector cover.

Step 22

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side.

Step 23

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

Step 24

Lift the back glass connector cover straight up and remove it.

Step 25

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.

Step 26

Remove the back glass.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone. Temporarily reconnect the battery and back glass, power on your iPhone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.
Use this guide to reapply adhesive and install your back glass.

Step 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
One 2.9 mm‑long screw
One 1.3 mm‑long screw
One 2.4 mm‑long screw

Step 28

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.
Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.
During reassembly, make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.

Step 29

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.

Step 30

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.

Step 31

Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

Step 32

Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.

Step 33

Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.
Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.

Step 34

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 35

Use the point of a spudger to pivot the corner bracket up.

Step 36

Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

Step 37

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.
Be careful not to pry against the battery.
Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 38

Remove the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Step 39

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the bottom microphone.
Don't pry against the battery, or you may damage it.
You'll feel some resistance as the microphone releases from its frame gasket.
Remove the bottom microphone.

Step 40

During reassembly:
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the old adhesive gasket from the bottom of the frame.
If your replacement microphone comes with an adhesive gasket pre‑installed, remove the liner to expose the adhesive.
If your replacement microphone didn't come with a gasket pre‑installed, apply a new gasket to the frame or to the microphone itself.
Reinsert the microphone at a downward angle before pressing it flat to the frame and continuing reassembly.