iPhone 12 Battery Replacement

Written By: Adam O'Camb

Comments: 49

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

iPhone batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. After that, your iPhone may need to be charged far more frequently, and iOS may warn you that performance is affected (in other words, your phone will run slower). Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to like-new performance.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: On iOS 17.6 and earlier, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery after the repair, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning. On iOS 18 and newer, authenticate your new battery using Apple's Repair Assistant.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the volume button edge of the iPhone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.

Step 2

Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it's in the proper orientation inside the tray.
A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

Step 3

Caution: Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit?

Heather Furnas -

Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit? (I would like to know this as well.)

CaliforniaGunner -

Step 4

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 5

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 6

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 7

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 8

Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 9

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
Never leave your hair dryer in one spot for an extended period of time.

Step 10

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.

Step 11

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

This seems impossible. I've been trying for an hour with heat and rocking, and the screen doesn't budge. :(

Aubi Abramowitz -

this is impossible, will take years

Evan Z -

Don’t give up! Use more heat and a tad more force. I know you may fear breaking it more, but as long as you don’t stick the prying tool too far or tug too hard, you can do it! I have faith that you can do it!

Rachel Kelley -

I'm in the same boat, this isn't coming off. I've tried the hair dryer as well as the heating pad from ifixit. Any other ideas?

The suction cup comes off before the screen will

Brian Melcher -

Is there a better tool for this? Just saw a video on YouTube where a kid pryed it open with no heating/etc. in 5 seconds.

Brian Melcher -

I've changed the batteries in probably a half dozen iphones of different models. But 25 minutes of heating and pulling had no effect on iPhone 12

Ryan Thornburg -

Welp. I finally ended up breaking the screen attempting this. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR! Not worth the broken screen and losing the cost of shipping both ways when you return the battery.

Ryan Thornburg -

thx, I ll go to an apple repair center

Ronald Geerligs -

Back (and bad...) experience ! Even if you heat a lot, the screen is hardly sticked. Take care, before sliding the mediator under the screen, this one should be moved up, at least 2 mm. On my side i have slided around 1 mm and .... inserted the mediator between the glass screen and the screen structure ring.... result : glass break and screen to change (my initial exercise was the battery removal !). I feel that next time i will visit a repair center...

Gilbert -

Pro tip for anyone having trouble with this. You have to use multiple rounds of heat and pulling. Use a hair dryer and not the iOpener that comes with the fix kit and get it just too hot to touch then quickly start pulling and wiggling it up and down. Once it cools down grab the hair dryer again and repeat it a couple times until you start to get a big enough gap.

I just did this yesterday and it took around 5 rounds of heating and pulling to get it to seperate enough from the body.

Oliver Pressello -

It's important to insert the pick under the bezel. I just delaminated my screen. The screen was probably fine, but it was glitching, so I wanted to check for a bad connection. Anyway, now I get a new screen.

Under the bezel, eh.

Chris Green -

After reading this almost a year later to the day I last commented on it, I now know that the best way I have found to remove a screen, from pretty much any phone, not just this one, is heat (I use a heating pad on 80 degrees celsius) and before putting the phone on the heating pad, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol around the edges that you will be sliding your pry tools in, and I leave it on for 10 min. I then take it off, add more alcohol, and then put it back on the pad for another 5 min. Also, while I am sliding my tools around the screen, I continuously add more alcohol, and if it takes a really long time, then more heat as well. Heat, alcohol, and patience, lots of patience, and you should be good. Hope this helps, good luck!

Rachel Kelley -

Can confirm, this does indeed work. Just keep warming it up, lifting up and down, and repeat when phone goes cold. After around 10 rounds it would move enough to where I could see inside the phone when lifted. You can then insert pick

Tip: You can also try to apply heat and lift the other corner, just enough to make it move slightly. This will ease pressure needed to separate the glue on the other side as-well.

Thomas -

No worries guys! it’s completely doable! You just need to be patient and keep trying multiple times

Giordano Urettini -

I don't doubt that you folks eventually got this open, but how on earth do you not lose your mind with the suction cup popping off every 5 seconds? Agree with Ryan above, have replaced batteries on several other iPhone generations with nowhere near this much effort. Still working on it going on 1 hr, about 10 rounds of hair dryer heat. Did Apple use a stronger adhesive for the 12?

davidum -

Success. iOpener doesn't get the phone nearly hot enough. Multiple rounds of hair dryer + isopropyl alcohol dribbled in b/w case and screen while pulling up on suction cup. For me, the bottom left hand corner (volume rocker side) seemed to lift up first, so I moved the suction cup to that corner while doing the heat + alcohol.

davidum -

When I changed the battery on a 7+ instead of the suction cup/heat method I used an Cacto blade inserted horizontally along the bottom edge to break the seal. Would this work on the 12?

mikefunkpa_c -

I struggled with this step, but eventually got it. Use LOTS of isopropyl alcohol, and soak the entire perimeter. Let it sit for 30 seconds after application, then heat it up, then pull with the clamp and rock back and forth. Reapply the alcohol and repeat until it works. Took me about 30 mins, but I eventually got it up just enough for the first pick. The iOpener is completely useless, I just used a shrink wrap gun and made sure to hold it 8-12 inches from the phone on the lowest heat setting.

Wesley Kelly -

Step 12

Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 13

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.
Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.

Step 14

Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 15

Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPhone to separate the top adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the top sensors.
Leave the pick in the top left corner before continuing.

Step 16

Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.

Step 17

There are delicate cables along the left edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 18

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
Apply the twisting force gradually.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, reheat the left edge.

Step 19

Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

i did this and the shroud with the earpiece speaker still stuck with the phone so its just wedged in there i cant get it out

lil teslas -

Must have slid a pick in too far as the front sensor ribbon in step 27 was broken…<sigh>. Any chance that sensor is easy to replace?

Jon -

Step 20

Remove two 1.1 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Ouch, I see a broken flat here…

Alessandro Sordelli - 20/05/21

Can I use a y 0.6 if I don’t have y000

kellciou cr -

Yep! The measurements for Y000 are 0.6 mm.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Step 21

Remove the cover.

On my original display on an iPhone 12, there is no metal hinge as shown here and therefore no place for it when closing the phone. Have double-checked model and the original display - and it is just not there. Is there another model based on serial number?

Hinge marked: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/asztgi60g...

Best regards,

Carsten

Carsten Feltman -

Step 22

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 23

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 24

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 25

Use a Y000 driver to remove four screws securing the front sensor connector cover.
Three 1.1 mm long screws
One 1.4 mm long screw

Step 26

Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.
Remove the cover.
During reassembly, insert the clip on the right edge into its slot first, then hinge the rest of the cover into place.

Step 27

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

Step 28

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 29

Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.6 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 30

Remove the loudspeaker.

Step 31

Use a Y000 driver to remove the two 1.4 mm long screws securing the SIM card reader connector cover.

Step 32

Remove the SIM card reader cable connector cover.

Step 33

Use the point of a spudger to pry the SIM card reader cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 34

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the SIM card reader.
Two 1.4 mm screws
One 1.1 mm screw

Step 35

Remove the Taptic Engine cable connector bracket.

Step 36

Use a standoff or a small flathead driver to remove the 2.82 mm long standoff screw securing the SIM card reader.
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 37

Remove the SIM card reader.
Before reinstallation, make sure the SIM eject plunger is pushed into the edge of the phone.

Step 38

Use the point of a spudger to pry the Taptic Engine cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.

Step 39

Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine.
Two 2.8 mm long standoff screws
One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

Step 40

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 41

The battery is secured to the rear case with four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two on the bottom edge of the battery, and two on the top edge.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.
In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. These "command-strip" style adhesives lose their stick when stretched, so you can remove the battery with ease.
If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for tips on removing broken strips.

Step 42

Peel down the first battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.
Caution: Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

Ihr verwendet hierbei einen breiten Tweezer welcher nicht in der Werkzeugliste genannt ist.

Daniel -

Step 43

Peel down the second battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.

Step 44

Grab the first pull-tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
If any of the adhesive strips break off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 45

Grab the second pull-tab with your fingers and pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Follow the same procedure as with the previous strip: don't press down on the battery, keep the strip flat and unwrinkled, and pull at a low angle.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, continue with the next step.

Step 46

Peel up the two remaining battery adhesive pull-tabs to un-stick them from the top edge of the battery.

Step 47

Using the same procedure as before, pull the remaining two tabs, one at a time, to stretch and remove the remaining adhesive strip holding the battery in place. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.
Be careful not to fling the battery from the iPhone as the final adhesive strip comes out.
If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
Otherwise, continue with the next step below.

Step 48

If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

Step 49

Remove the battery.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
If your new battery didn't come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

After your repair, depending on the replacement part, you may be able to calibrate it using Apple's Repair Assistant, available as of iOS 18. Update your device, navigate to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the onscreen prompts.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Answers community for help.

Author

Adam O'Camb

Member since: 11/04/15

206065 Reputation

6 comments

bravo! thank you

Forr Rest -

Good work.

A few words of advice

If you don't have the original disassembly kit, be really careful with the LCD, it's as crunchy as anything. Heat a lot (100-120C) and if you're careful, a few drops of isopropyl will dissolve the annoying double-sided tape - but don't pour it there (you'll destroy the display), just a few drops and always wait a bit and move the pry bar Most pry bars for separating the LCD from the frame are very thick, it is better to use durable foil, metal plates or high-quality paper playing cards.

Don't be lazy to remove the SIM box and taptic engine, it will be easier to remove the straps under the battery. If you have twitches, isopropyl and heat will help ''''

Before gluing it (I recommend the original gluing kit), carefully clean the surfaces so that there are no old tape clumps and verify all functions. Do the programming of the original battery on the disassembled piece and all tests including face ID, SIM card, vibrations, if you play with shuffling electronics and JCID cable

milosbartu -

Hallo , ich habe den neuen Akku eingesetzt und jetzt erscheint in den Einstellungen: Batterie nicht erkannt unbekanntes Gerät.

Woran liegt das ?

Verdieck -

Da Apple-Akkus verschlüsselt sind, wenn sie nicht mit den vom Originalgerät ausgelesenen Daten übereinstimmen, sind der Akku von Drittanbietern, Apple und der offizielle Akku unbekannte Teile, wenn Sie einen offiziellen Apple-Akku kaufen, sind nur einige Reparaturdienste von Drittanbietern von Apple autorisiert, sie können den offiziellen Diagnosedienst von Apple verwenden, um den Zustand des Akkus wiederherzustellen. oder wenden Sie sich an den autorisierten Reparaturservice von Apple, um die Batterie auszutauschen, und die Batterie des Drittanbieters muss die Batterieschutzplatine des Originalgeräts ersetzen, um den Batteriezustand wiederherzustellen

recall0320 -

biggest mistake of my life first i had bough a used phone that got repaired then the battery went inflated and then i bough the set and all things werent origial like the speaker and other things so stupidddd........... then i PAID 40 DOLLARS I WOULD EVEN GO TO A APPLE STORE TO PAY 100 TO GET IT FIXED OMG ONE TIME AND NEVER i was sitting at the cold ass winter breeze out and got almost freezed im not gonna do that anymore and brake my body

Simon Muehlhaupt -

Sehr gute Anleitung. Hat mir wirklich viel beim Austausch des Akkus geholfen. Ohne solche Anleitungen würde ich mich nicht an eine solche Aktion herantrauen.

Vielen Dank.

Achim Röver -