iPhone 11 Battery Replacement

Written By: Jeff Suovanen

Comments: 85

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

iPhone batteries degrade with use—over time, they lose their ability to hold a full charge. Apple's batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. When your battery's chemistry is degraded, it may also cause your iPhone to run more slowly. Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone 11 to full performance.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: After the repair, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

You'll need replacement adhesive in order to complete this repair.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

the right screws wouldn’t come off

Yusef San Inocencio - 19/04/21

ok one came of but my right wont come of either!!!!

Aisa Jawara -

Hello guys, I still haven't found away to power off the iphone without using the screen. Cheers!

danielaguirre93 -

You can try this.

Quickly Press and release the volume up button.

then Quickly Press and release the volume down button.

then press and hold the power button and wait until it turns off.

worked for me :D

Benóný Egilson -

Where does one get replacement seals? Is this the same as the display assembly adhesive?

Brian Baker - 20/07/23

not of the screwdrivers i have seem to be able to turn the screws

Aisa Jawara -

how do you change battery of an iPhone 11 and still the battery health shows, do you use a software for that?

Great Me -

Battery health won’t show on a non Apple battery.

DON’T forget to discharge old battery before removing it. Very impressive fire (and smoke!) if you puncture it. Ask me how I know

Doug Harrowing -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

the picture shows 3 cm but the description says 3 mm's. Which one is it?

John Pena -

That is a misunderstanding. It is a ruler with a scale for cm, it shows 0.3 cm, i.e. 3 mm.

VauWeh -

Oh, come ON!

Big Ed -

It will ALWAYS be millimeters on a phone, but this step is ridiculous, skip it!

Leif DeWolf -

It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.

Jaleeljb97@icloud.com -

No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?

Jackson Castiglione -

Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.

Shourob Datta -

For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you

Henry Scheibehenne -

Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!

Leif DeWolf -

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.

어짜피 못쓰고 버릴 거라면, 이것보다 인두기를 직접 대는 방식을 추천 합니다. 어짜피 유리라 연기나 반응도 없고 무엇보다 금방 열기가 올라와요.

코딩의달인 -

Gut gehen auch Kirschkernsäckchen. Damit hatte ich Erfolg!

Hoetgen -

Step 8

If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

This turned out to be the most difficult part for me. My old ifixit suction cup didn't suck hard enough to generate enough force to pry the display from the case. I ended up applying heat at least a dozen times, and I had to pull up on the suction cup forcefully over and over and over while repositioning it several times. I finally had success inserting my pick into the tiny gap after 30 or so rapid tugs on the suction cup.

matthew r -

I pulled the screen by accident instead of the bottom layer, now what?

Alvaro -

I have the same question

Konstantinos Solakoglou -

After heating (I used a hair dryer for 4-5 mins, moving around whole frame, to make sure was pretty hot, then let sit for 1 minute), insert a razor blade between the bezel and the frame, at the bottom edge. Lever upwards, the screen will easily pull away. You won’t even need the suction cup.

Damian -

Step 10

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage internal components.

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Instructions are confusing as the last step says not to insert at certain points, while this says to slide all the way up the right side - is it that sliding is ok but inserting isn't (whatever that might mean) or just not more than 3mm?

Peter Hill -

Just slide slightly and the display will rise without problems on all iPhone models, sometimes if I have long nails I even insert a fingernail and lift the display.

Tonynox -

Step 13

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Step 14

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the Face ID sensor array.

Step 15

Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.

Step 16

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Prop the display up against something sturdy.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

Step 17

To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
Be careful not to strain or tear the display cables.

Step 18

Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

During reassembly, I had to connect my phone to the charger before it would power up.

Austin Culberson -

Die Schrauben sind wahnsinnig kurz, tatsächlich winzig klein. Nach dem Herausdrehen könnte es im ersten Moment so aussehen, als habe man die Schrauben ausgebohrt anstatt herauszudrehen, sie sind jedoch sehr schnell gelöst und liegen dann entweder im Gehäuse oder sind neben dem Gehäuse herausgefallen. In jedem Fall sollten sie nie auf den Boden fallen, da sie dann kaum mehr auffindbar wären.

Bernd Sonneck -

I got to this point thinking/hoping I could eek by with a Y1 orY0 or even a PH000 driver but no such luck. The Y000 is in fact necessary. Finishing this repair will have to wait for now.

ALSO thanks Apple, there is ABSOLUTELY no reason AT. ALL. to use so many random, oddball screw heads, BUT to make self repairs more difficult and expensive. A real F-U to the consumer!

John M -

Step 19

Remove the bracket.

Step 20

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.

Step 21

Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Bernd Sonneck - 27/12/23

Step 22

Remove the bracket.

Step 23

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.

Be mindful when reconnecting LCD panel connector and digitizer connector. It’s looks very similar. These 2 ribbon connectors a slightly different.

Pay attention.

Josmaknolavic -

내 아이폰이 디스플레이 분리 단계를 거친 후, 전원이 들어오지 않습니다. 층전기를 꽂아도 배터리에 미세한 전기 반응이 느껴지지 않고, 탭틱 엔진도 작동하지 않게 되었습니다. cpu 온도는 여전히 뜨껍습니다. 내 마더보드가 디스플레이 분리 후 갑자기 고장난건가요?

Protoncal -

Hast Du das Problem gelöst?

Bernd Sonneck -

커넥터 핀을 빼거나 다시 넣기 위해 구부러졌을 수 있습니다. 핀이 구부러진 경우 돋보기 등으로 살펴보고, 그렇다면 적절한 매장에 가져가세요.

Hampter -

Hier war mein Problem schon gelöst. Durch einen Sturz hat sich der Touchscreen Stecker gelöst. Wieder eingesteckt funktionierte die Touch-Eingabe wieder.

Hoetgen -

Step 24

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 25

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

After this step its probably a good idea to test the new screen (you dont have to plug in the front camera assembly)

Richard Kraus - 16/04/21

Not a technician, so correct me if I'm wrong: I think that it's at this step of reassembly (before you reattach the screen) that you apply waterproof glue, if you have it.

Athanasius Pernath -

You are both correct. Testing the screen before putting on adhesive means the screen can be returned if faulty. Many places will not accept a screen return that has adhesive on it.

So if it works apply adhesive at this point. When testing don’t just rely on Apple logo test touch functionality also .

Daniel - 25/08/24

Step 26

Using a Phillips driver, remove the five screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:
Four 1.6 mm screws
One 1.3 mm screw

The top right screw (1.6 mm marked red) is actually different from the other three 1.6mm screws as it's thread is slightly thicker.

Florian -

yep same experience here

Kai Mcpherson -

Yes, same here. The guide should be updated.

Maximilien Tirard -

Step 27

Remove the lower bracket.

Step 28

Use tweezers to lift and remove the black tape and rubber pad covering the Taptic Engine connector.
Use a little heat from a hair dryer or iOpener to make the tape easier to peel up and re-adhere later.

Step 29

Remove the five screws securing the speaker and brackets:
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
One 3.1 mm standoff screw
Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws

In my experience, the two green screws are not interchangeable

PJ McConnell -

the two green srews are not equally thic

Theo -

Wtf? I buy a repair kit and it doesn’t have all the screwdrivers I need?

JMD -

The repair kit does not have bits for all the screws

marios -

The battery kit includes the bit for the standoff screw marked in yellow.

marc -

I can't get it to remove with any of the three provided bits. Doesn't even engage.

Carey Dissmore -

The green screw for the ground clip is longer than the second green screw. Keep the ground clip with that screw

marc -

Step 30

Remove the small grounding clip on the top right corner of the speaker.

Salut comment je peux trouver cette pièce ?

kenyfaya973 - 25/12/20

Step 31

Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

Step 32

Lift and push aside the small board covering the remaining speaker screw in the bottom right corner of the iPhone.
Remove the 2.4 mm standoff screw underneath.

Use the standoff bit that should be in the box with the battery and adhesive.

marc -

Step 33

Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

Step 34

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

You want to pull the speaker out exactly as they have shown. If you rock it the other way, it will pull off the board that's not mentioned, but still pictured against the edge of the phone. Also, the kit frustratingly doesn't include the speaker gasket. So get that before you start, or you'll be remolding the used gasket.

Tim Taylor -

Step 35

Remove the speaker.
Optionally, to help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the speaker's adhesive gasket during reassembly:
Peel away any remaining adhesive with tweezers.
Prep the area underneath by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly.
Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

It seems that a bracket which held a screw to the charging port is holding the part to the phone even though adhesive and all screws are removed, not sure why but I can't remove the speaker. I had this same problem with another bracket of the speaker which held a screw but ripped it off the lower speaker part as i couldn't get it unattached from the screw port. All screws and adhesive were removed, I don't understand what is wrong

Daniel Frey -

do you sell the speaker's adhesive gasket replacement?

thuan nguyen -

Do you sell the speaker adhesive? It's unfortunate to have gotten this far and feel ill prepared to replace something that seems very important. You guys should have included it or indicated it as a highly recommended option.

stevenalias -

Im Reparatur-Kit ist keine Ersatzdichtung für den Lautsprecher enthalten! 😢

Bernd Sonneck -

Step 36

Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 1.8 mm screws securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 37

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Step 38

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 39

Six pieces of stretch-release adhesive hold the battery in place—three near the top edge, and three near the bottom.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at one end, which is lightly adhered and folded onto the top of the battery.

Step 40

Peel back the three battery adhesive pull tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

Step 41

In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. The adhesive releases as it stretches.
If the strips break, don't panic! Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.
To increase your odds of success:
Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.

Step 42

Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the other strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 43

Repeat the above steps to remove the other two adhesive strips near the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Step 44

Peel back the three battery adhesive tabs from the top edge of the battery.
Don't touch the Face ID sensor modules near the top of the iPhone.

Step 45

Pull the top adhesive strips out one at a time, using the same method you've used to pull the bottom strips.
Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.
If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.

Step 46

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).
After about a minute, gently lift the battery.
The battery should come free with minimal force. If not, add a little more isopropyl alcohol and try again. Do not bend or puncture the battery.

This is a very good tip, it is hard to remove all the adhesive without breaking one of them, but the alcohol is very helpful.

gustaudio - 14/08/23

Step 47

If your battery is stuck and an appropriate liquid solvent is not available, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch, but no more.
Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss) underneath the battery.
Wear gloves to protect your fingers, or wrap each end of the string around a tool.
Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
Start from the top or bottom edge of the battery, and pull toward the middle. Don't pull the string through the middle third of the battery, or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath.
If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

Step 48

Remove the battery.
Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.

Author

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06/08/13

436473 Reputation

23 comments

Also, it would be nice to have a step by step of how to reprogram the new battery to bypass the “non-genuine warning”

Olamide Olayinka -

I have been looking for a solution for this! Seems the only way is to remove the BMS board from the original battery. Requires soldering.

Mohammad Ali -

Yea. There's a step by step guide on how to do just that here

Joseftech -

Apple specifically does this to prevent 3rd parties from repairing their products. A Simple google search would have yielded this.

Brian Kennally -

"A simple google search would have yielded this" 🤓🤓🤓

Freddy Jackson -

Anyone figure out a way to hide the badge on the settings icon?

Elon Gated -

La guida consiglia di rimuovere molte parti, in realtà basta solo rimuovere lo schermo ed acquistare una batteria già assemblata.

Io personalmente o impiegato 45 minuti andando molto lento e molto attento alle mie operazioni.

mario giorno -

When opening up a phone, why doesn't ifixit recommend to use a static electricity grounding wrist band since such charge can damage phone electronics if not grounded? (Apple technicians use such).

How come ifixit does not give advice after a battery change how to reprogramme the phone to its full functioning capability since some are lost when a battery is replaced? (Apple technicians include this service in a battery change).

What are the statistics on after market batteries not performing as good as OEM parts and what are statistics where such after market batteries harm the phone? All batteries are made in China but Apple endorsed battery makers are required to adhere to strict standards.

L D -

Just noticed on the video at 6:02-6:03 the screw is being screwed into the wrong hole on the speaker and at the wrong stage

Also keeping the black rubber pad cover the tactic engine connector should be mentioned earlier in the video

Apart from that - great video

Ian -

Thanks for this guide! I successfully replaced/upgraded my wife's battery. She'd had this phone for 2+ years and it was time. Replaced it with one of the increased capacity batteries available on Amazon. Removing the old and installing the new battery was easier than I thought it would be. Opening the dang thing was the hardest part.

matthew r -

Successfully completed using this guide. Thanks Jeff

Tim H -

Die Anleitung ist, wie immer bei IFIXIT, super verständlich! Ich bin jedoch nur bis Schritt 25 gefolgt und habe die haptic engine und den Lautsprecher nicht ausgebaut. Das Akku ließ sich auch so mit etwas Geschick und den richtigen Werkzeug (z.B. einer guten Pinzette für die Klebestreifen) und etwas Isopropanol aus einer Spritze (100%) gut lösen. Eine alte EC-Karte o.ä., um vorsichtig (!) von oben unter den Akku zu kommen kann helfen (das Akku nicht stark verbiegen!). Ab hier wieder zusammengebaut - und voila! Einiges an Arbeit erspart. Einziger Nachteil: die unteren Klebestreifen am Akku reißen leicht, da man diese wegen der haptic engine nicht flach herausziehen kann. Aber mit ein paar Tropfen Isopropanol kein Problem und Fehler beim Zusammenbau werden evtl. vermieden, da weniger Schritte beim Aus- und Einbau notwendig sind. Ich hoffe, der Tip hilft dem ein oder anderen, die Reparatur zu vereinfachen. Würde mich freuen. Ist übrigens nicht mein erster Akkuwechsel :-)

Uwe Schmitt - 25/12/23

Your tutorial help me a lot thanks for your contribution !

Rémi Lefebvre -

If anyone wonder you can actually change you battery without removing taptic engine and the speaker

Rémi Lefebvre -

Probably not, it would be impossible to peel the strips out I’m pretty sure.

Dalton Owen -

Hat jemand Erfahrungen mit Akkus welche eine grössere Kapazität aufweisen als die originale? Halten die wirklich länger, bzw wie ist die Qualität der Zellen? Gibt es da Erfahrungswerte?

Softstarter -

Moin, ich habe die Ladebuchse meines iphone 11 gewechselt weil es zuvor nicht geladen hat. Nun Läd es Trotzdem nicht mehr. Woran kann das liegen?

Ferhat -

Hallo, ich gebe hiermit ein Update zu meinen ersten Kommentar. Ich habe einen Nagelneuen Ladeadapter gekauft und der hat nicht Funktioniert. Daraufhin habe ich Ladebuchse und sogar das Akku ausgetauscht und es hat trotzdem nicht funktioniert. Dann habe ich mir einen anderen Kabel bestellt. Statt USB-C auf Lightning "was nicht Funktioniert hat" benutze ich "USB auf Lightning was nun funktioniert" Ich habe den alten Akku auch wieder eingebaut uns es funktioniert einwandfrei :D Hat jemand einen reim hier drauf warum es der USB-C Anschluss auf Lightning nicht Funktioniert?

Ferhat -

BE WARNED!! Do not be fooled I bought the screen kit from here and it never arrived and I never got my money back too. Good luck to you. I been trying to reach DHL only to find out the product was never send. What a wast. How are they allowed to run a scam

Dano -

Actual hours spent is more like 5, when including ALL aspects of repair including gathering parts and tools, deciding which parts and tools are needed, thoroughly reading entire instructions several times, fiddling with battery that won't come out, worrying about overheating phone while trying to loosen screen and bezel, picking up the tiniest screws on earth and trying not to lose them. Perhaps a person who does this several times could reduce that time, but most people only ever do this once.

Robert Morgan -

Doing this somehow broke the digitizer in my screen, and now 100$ is down the drain.

Dalton Owen -

Shourob Datta -

Unbelievably detailed instructions!! Im impressed - and pretty convinced I shouldn't try it LOL!

Mary Sheppard -