Sony DualSense Controller Trigger Assembly Replacement

Written By: Sam Omiotek

Comments: 66

Sony DualSense Controller Trigger Assembly Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the trigger assemblies on a Sony PlayStation 5 DualSense controller.

These assemblies contain both the triggers and the adaptive resistance motors.

Note: This guide is for DualSense controllers with an FCC ID ending in 1. Check the back of your controller to verify your model. If yours ends in A, there will be differences in the internal design.

Tools

Parts

PlayStation DualSense Controller v1 Trigger Button Cover Set

Step 1

Disconnect and power down your controller before you begin.
Insert an opening pick underneath the middle trim at the bottom-right corner of the controller to release the clips securing it to the case.

Step 2

Slide the opening pick along the lower-right edge of the middle trim to release the clips securing it to the case.

Step 3

Insert an opening pick underneath the middle trim at the bottom-left corner of the controller to release the clips securing it to the case.

Step 4

Slide the opening pick along the lower-left edge of the middle trim to release the clips securing it to the case.

Step 5

Use your fingers to lift up the bottom edge of the middle trim to release the remaining clips.
Lift the middle trim over the joysticks to remove it.

Step 6

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap above the L1 button.
Cover the button with your thumb to prevent it from ejecting across the room.
Pry upward to remove the L1 button.

Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.

Lora Singleton -

Agree with Lora's comment above. I was able to use an old credit card to take L1/R1 out this way. I pressed down the L2/R2 button to create space to work in, then came in from between L1/L2 and R1/R2. It's easy to pop one of the outer corners first then you can work the credit card around the top and the rest falls out.

darkstar448 -

Man, if I'd just read the thumb part...

caldugen -

Step 7

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap above the R1 button.
Cover the button with your thumb to prevent it from ejecting across the room.
Pry upward to remove the R1 button.

to save a few bucks, the L1 and R1 buttons can be removed without the use of the spudger tool by using any thin prying tool and just pry the buttons from the bottom instead of the top

Alan Peng -

What I didn't see addressed anywhere (here or in other similar articles) is that replacement R1 / L1 buttons can be differ enough to be un-usable depending on which model your ps5 controller is. The ones I ordered don't fit and now I can't find a way to be sure I get the right ones because few know there's even a difference.

Walt Mather -

Did you already figured it out? The version the we need yo use?, We are in the same situation here.

Gerald Ross Rodriguez -

Lora Singleton -

Step 8

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 6.4 mm screws securing the bottom corners of the lower case.

Step 9

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 6.4 mm screws behind the L1 and R1 buttons.

Step 10

Use the pointed edge of a spudger to unclip the two clips on either side of the headset jack.

If these are similar in nature to the DS4’s clips, don’t use too much force so you don’t end up breaking them

Strings Cat -

there is a clip that holds the rear cover in place located in R1 and L1

Zargruzski nakamura -

Is there a clip in R1 and there's another in L1? Any way to see where exactly? The part of the back cover near L1 and R2 is that one that's not coming off. I can't seem to pull it off easily the way it looks in Step 11.

tofu -

For those wondering where the bumper clip is located, it's ~1cm inwards from the end of the back shell where the bumpers are. Take a spudger in that spot and lift it upwards carefully, it should disconnect the clips if they aren't already

Franz Rolfsvaag -

Step 11

Remove the rear case.
On some revisions, the rear case is held with two more clips next to the previously removed bumpers. If the rear case doesn't open without force, check for those clips.

There are four more clips/hooks hidden in the seams along the outer sides of the handles. If you pull open the controller as shown in this step, then you will shear off the two tiny clips which are right next to the R1 and L1 buttons.

Therefore, you should first release those clips by prying the seams open sideways.

I noticed this with the updated design of the controller, not sure whether the hooks are present on the first version.

The hooks are not critical for the integrity of the controller as the two halves are held together by the screws hidden under the buttons. The damage does show that the controller has been taken apart.

Nick -

Thought I'd clarify: The clips next to the L1 and R1 are on the outer side from the L1 and R1 buttons, I'd suggest zooming in on the picture to see them. They're quite easy to break, but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards

Franz Rolfsvaag -

I am still strugling to find the clips. Could someone point them out in the image with a screen shot or something like that.

aGingerThing -

I keep getting stuck at this step too with the new DualSense CFI-ZCT1WA revision. The top and bottom shells seem like they are fused together next to L1/R1 but I can't seem to be able to find where these hidden clips are located. My controller is still in warranty so I don't want to break them in case I can't fix my issue.

but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards

I tried this but it seems that the you need a lot of force and I ended up bending the tip of my spudger. Are you sure it's not the top cover that you need to pry away? The bottom cover has a ridge to make sure it's under the top cover so it's not easy to bend outwards.

@samomio I think there needs to be a step added for these new clips.

robplease -

Ok, not seeing a lot of motion on this request, so I've uploaded photos of the hooks to imgur.

Here ya go: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

Sean Murphy -

Life save Sean. Appreciate the image.

Vili -

This guide really needs an update on this. I had a really hard time getting the forward clips to release even after referring to the comments above. Pretty sure I broke them in the end. No big deal but would be great if the iFixit experts could work out a good method for releasing them.

Marcus Harvey -

I finally figure it out!!

The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.

Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.

To disassemble

1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.

2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, push your thumb on the upper shell and push outward as well (you can do this by applying pressure from the removed R1/L1 button hole towards the seam. And then it will disassemble automatically

And that's it!

Penn - 27/01/24

updated instruction:

I finally figure it out!!

The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.

Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.

To disassemble

1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.

2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, hold your thumb on the upper shell as anchor and then use your other finger to pry the bottom edge of the controller up away from the shell. If you are doing the first step, then don't worry about breaking the clip, just force it open. And then it will disassemble automatically

And that's it!

Penn -

Yes! Thanks a bunch Penn. That did the trick! Much appreciated

Sean -

I managed to do it just by pulling harder than what I was already doing. And I don't think I broke anything. So, for me at least, the technique described in this guide worked.

Riedweg Guillaume -

The video linked below clearly shows how to open the controllers with the extra clips near the L1/R1 areas.

See a video here by How To X on YouTube... https://youtu.be/djIvRoclr_E?si=dKFpQCZe...

Jason Z - 18/05/24

I really struggled with releasing the rest of the back panel (close to the shoulder buttons.) What finally seemed to do the trick for me, was doing both sides at once with upward turning motion of the back panel with the shoulder buttons approximately at the axis. Trying to release just one side and then the other felt impossible without potentially breaking the case.

dborba -

Step 12

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to disconnect the battery from the motherboard.
Grip the connector, not the wires, when disconnecting.

Tweezers aren't gonna grip that the way you need.

Leif DeWolf -

For those having trouble using tweezers to pull out the connector, you can grab below the lip of the connector and use the controller as a lever to pull it up as seen here DualSense Controller v2 Battery Replacement

This little trick helped me so much and I believe it should be shown on this guide as well.

Ezra Worthington -

Tweezers is too weak for this. I use my finger nails after removing the battery from the slot, straighten the cable lines and slowly wiggle it out.

Penn -

Step 13

Lift the battery straight out of the battery bracket.

Step 14

Grab the lower microphone ribbon cable pull tab with your fingers or a pair of tweezers and disconnect it from the motherboard.

These ribbon cables have small tabs on either side you can use to help pull out the cable. You can slightly pull up, alternating between the two sides, to slowly wiggle the connector out.

Tran Anh Nguyen -

Might be a rookie mistake, but DO NOT REMOVE THE WHITE BRACKETS, only the ribbon! If you do, you’ll have an awful time putting it back and will most likely mess it up. Yes I did.

Joris D -

I tried to use metal tweezers to pull this out and absolutely shredded the ribbon in the process. It's just a microphone so I wouldn't expect it to matter but now none of the games get any input from the controller even though the controller works fine in the home menu 🥲

Probably just use your fingers if you have the dexterity for it.

Grey -

Step 15

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 6.4 mm screw securing the battery bracket.

Step 16

Lift the battery bracket out of the motherboard.

Black and red wires fit neatly under the lower left and lower right arms of the battery bracket, to avoid potential damage when reconnecting the rear case.

Seomhnasaigh B -

This needs to be noted. Thanks!

Nick Gatti -

Step 17

Grip the right trigger assembly ribbon cable pull tab with a pair of tweezers or your fingers and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Do not completely remove the ribbon cable yet.

Step 18

Grip the right trigger assembly ribbon cable pull tab with a pair of tweezers or your fingers, and pull up to disconnect it from the trigger assembly.
Remove the ribbon cable.

Depending on the revision of your controller, these ribbon cables may be slim and white and if you remove it completely, you might have to remove and tear down the trigger assembly to get the ribbon cable back in.

Robert Borrero -

Step 19

Grip the left trigger assembly ribbon cable pull tab with a pair of tweezers or your fingers and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Do not completely remove the ribbon cable yet.

Step 20

Grip the left trigger assembly ribbon cable pull tab with a pair of tweezers or your fingers, and pull up to disconnect it from the trigger assembly.
Remove the ribbon cable.

Step 21

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to grip the upper microphone ribbon cable pull tab, and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

what is the white thing soldered to the motherboard called where the mic ribbon cable plugs and where can i find the part?

Abhi K - 03/01/23

@abhik13943 did you ever find this part?

DaMej2895 -

unfortunately, no. i'm just using my controller without a mic.

Abhi K -

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to grip the touchpad ribbon cable pull tab, and pull it straight out of the motherboard connector.

Step 23

Carefully guide the joysticks through the front case and lift the motherboard out.
Do not completely remove the motherboard. There are four soldered wires tethering the motherboard to the vibrator motors.

Pushing on the joysticks makes this much easier.

zidek22 -

My motherboard wouldn't just lift right out. So I noticed there's also a pair of barely visible small black clips, one on each side of the motherboard, holding it down. One is right beside the battery connector and the other's directly across on the opposite side of the motherboard right beside the ribbon cable connector.

Jason Mulholland -

Such a good observation!

zidek22 -

Just push on the sticks. Pops out like a charm, zero effort.

Italian Retro Guy -

Step 24

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 8.5 mm screws securing the light guide.

Mine didn't have this piece

John -

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the light guide bracket.

Step 26

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the light guide.

Where do i buy a new light guide?

Jasper Nuyts -

Step 27

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the speaker from the midframe.
Be sure to reinstall the speaker in the correct orientation with the foam pad on the left side and the gold contact points on the right.

Speaker may be attached to the motherboard via the foam pad.

Daniel Geppert - 24/05/21

Step 28

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 6.4 mm screws securing the midframe to the front case.

Step 29

Carefully lift the midframe and motherboard up and out of the front case.
Be careful not to strain the vibrator motor wires.
During reassembly, feed the touchpad's ribbon cable back through its rectangular opening in the midframe.

Feed the ribbon cable back through the rectangular slot in the midframe during reassembly.

Seomhnasaigh B -

Thank you for catching this!

Sam Omiotek -

Step 30

Flip over the midframe and motherboard.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 6.4 mm screws securing the trigger assemblies to the midframe.
If only one trigger assembly needs to be replaced, only remove the screws for that one.

My controller doesn’t have these screws. Any idea how to release the trigger assemblies from the midframe?

GreenPlaidJackets -

Step 31

Carefully flip the midframe and motherboard over.
The trigger assemblies are loose and may fall out.
Remove the trigger assemblies.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Sam Omiotek

Member since: 25/02/19

81109 Reputation

20 comments

So after I completed this my L1 stopped working how do I fix that? Lol the L2 R1 and R2 work fine

Chris Doyle -

i know this is pretty long after you posted but could you tell me where you found the spare part?

Christos -

Ali express has everything since after warranty sony won't even look at your machine. Even for profit. Usbc port on the controller has no strength and I've had 2 go and that was from gentle use when I only had one controller then the second one did it so I had to buy 2 at once.

Joey Strong -

How do I find these parts? I’ve looked online for ps5 trigger assemblies and I can’t find them.

Avonlea -

hello. did you find the trigger spare part assemblies? I am also looking for it but unfortunately couldn't find them yet.

Sezer Metin -

ps5 adaptive trigger replacement

kasynlife -

Also looking for the trigger assembly part, would assume since the author made a guide on how to replace they would know where to get the parts? Would appreciate a response from the author

Joshua Jewison -

hello. If you found the spare trigger asm. parts, can you also advice me? I am also searching but couldn't find them yet.

Sezer Metin - 30/08/22

***I dont know if u are still looking for the triggers. I fond this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...

Janis Kaiser -

Dear Sam Omiotek, I really appreciate your explanation, it's really usefull. If you also know where can we find spare parts, can you please let us know? Thanks in advance

Sezer Metin -

found this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...

Janis Kaiser -

My dog chewed up one of my PS5 controllers and the L2 trigger was jammed. With the help of this brilliant guide, and an electronics essentials kit, I disassembled the controller and filed down the chewed up sections. Now my controller is good as new and my girlfriend can continue playing Hogwarts Legacy. Thank you ifixit!

Snookeroo -

My controller is completely diffrent from these toutorials im seeing, i live in sweden is there a diference in the controller makings? Or has the latest gen of controllers changed since i this post was made

Zippiach -

Alright its a new gen controller and the FCC ends with a A, is there no new tutorial for the controllers and i havent found any screws on the triggers that lets me disassemble the trigger. I think im &&^&@@.

Zippiach -

What do you do if the R2 trigger is jammed? I noticed that I broke the assembly cable of my R2 trigger and ordered one soon. I took out my broken cable but it's still registering that I'm pressing it. Need help on this one, Thank you so much!

Es Pangatlo -

I never would have thought to remove the L1 and R1 to get to the screws. Thank you!

chazdevereaux -

I'm going to connect my logic analyzer to the usbc port so we can identify the pins that actually use data because there's no way it's using the full spec for data transfer for firmware. After certain updates your controller is a paperweight. I've repaired a few now and half of them have torn traces because like the hdmi port there isn't enough inherent mechanical strength like a traditional serial controller port. Funny how it's been the same 2 wire data protocol for 50 years yet the usb ports since they went from mini to micro breaks if you look at it. I install mini USB wherever I can.

Joey Strong -

I completed the replacement of the trigger assembly, but r2 does not register at all and r1 is constantly on. Tried with three different units and known good ribbon cables. Also tried in known good board and get the same issue. Any advice?

Mattrz Novak - 04/07/23

On the R2 button, check that the flexible cable has not been damaged. If it is, you will need a new flexible cable. Does the L2 button work? The solution might be that the flexible cable has not been properly inserted and is not sending input to the L2 and R2 buttons. As for the R1 button, check that the button has not been damaged; it's a possible explanation for why it remains pressed. Try cleaning the R1 button thoroughly, dirt and debris could be the cause trapping the button and preventing it from releasing. Let me know if you have resolved the issue.

Massimiliano Stefania -

I used this guide to replace a broken spring in the L2 trigger. It went pretty smoothly thanks to this info, and I actually had to do the whole thing twice. Once to first find the fault and put controller back, then a second time to install the spring again later. The spring replacement isn't explicitly covered, but I was able to wing it by looking at the remaining intact spring. The springs are hard to handle due to their small size and the degree of compression required for install.

Rohan Lowe -