Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra USB-C Port and Charging Board Replacement

Written By: Clay Eickemeyer

Comments: 10

Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra USB-C Port and Charging Board Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Follow this guide to replace the USB-C port and charging board on your Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra.

Before disassembling your device, completely discharge the battery. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Note: Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the bottom edge of the phone.
Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.
If you accidentally inserted the SIM eject tool into a microphone hole, don't worry! You most likely didn't damage the microphone.

Step 2

Let your phone's battery drain to below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

I try to find the correct celsius value to heat the bag or direct temp to the sides of the phone. A reference should be a good thing to have. I have a heat bed I use to heat it up. I think 80c can work

Tobias Müllauer -

Step 3

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:
There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.
The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Step 4

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 5

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted near the bottom of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 6

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 7

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom right corner.
Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 8

Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 10

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom left corner.
Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 11

Slide your opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive, stopping when you reach the power button.
Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.
Leave the pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 13

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top right corner.
Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 14

Slide the pick to the top left corner to slice the adhesive.
Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras or sensors.
Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.
Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top left edge.
Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top left corner.

Step 16

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.
Slide the pick toward the bottom camera to slice through the remaining adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Step 17

Grab and remove the back cover.
If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.
If you're using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide.
If you're using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

Step 18

The wireless charging coil is lightly adhered to the battery.
Be careful not to strain or tear the display interconnect cable under the right side of the charging coil.
Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery.
Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard.
Repeat for the wireless charging coil press connector.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 20

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the NFC antenna and charging coil.

Step 21

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 22

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.
Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.
Don't pry against the battery. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.
During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 23

Grab and remove the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame.
The wireless charging coil holds these parts together.

Step 24

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 25

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable's press connector from the motherboard.
Repeat for the secondary interconnect cable.

Step 26

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable's press connector from the charging board.
Repeat for the secondary interconnect cable.

Step 27

Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the frame.

Step 28

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the charging board.

Step 29

Insert the pointed end of your spudger under the charging board opposite the USB-C port.
Pry the charging board up from its recess until you can grab it with your fingers.

Step 30

Grip the charging board by its corners and slide it out of its recess in the frame.
Remove the charging board.
During reassembly, reinsert the charging board at a downward angle to guide the USB-C port into its recess.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Clay Eickemeyer

Member since: 19/09/22

77552 Reputation

9 comments

Do you have access to a Samsung S10 SM-G973U USB-C port charger?

FULLTILT007 -

Hi! Would you be able to clarify which part you're asking about? We do sell that specific charging port, here. This replacement involves micro-soldering, and you would start at the S10 motherboard removal. If you're looking for an easier part to replace, such as the guide we are on now, we don't sell an equivalent kit for the S10.

Clay Eickemeyer -

After finishing this in about an hour, I would definitely recommend a heat gun over the Iopener. I spent around 15 minutes trying to pry the case open with the Iopener and found that it does get hot enough, but it doesn't seem to put that heat into the phone very well. I had the back cover off in around 5 minutes with a heat gun. Second, I would recommend buying the Ifixit precut adhesive seal kit, it is a few dollars, and you can be sure that you maintain the water proof seal on the phone. I did not need two of the seals, but I would have felt more secure if I had a backup in case I misaligned it and needed to start over.

Marcus Brown -

I'm assuming this will also replace whatever module detects moisture?

Ian S -

Most smartphones have multiple water damage indicators all around the device in the form of small non-electronic pads that discolor after exposure to water. If you're referring to an issue where persistent "Moisture Detected" type warnings are preventing you from charging your phone, then multiple causes, both software and hardware, could be factors. If, after troubleshooting, you rule out any software issues, then this repair is likely to fix a hardware or corrosion issue in your port. Good luck!

Clay Eickemeyer -

This was a helpful guide. Thanks for putting it together!

Michael Sunlin -

Are you still restocking the part needed for this fix?

B.H. -

I replaced the USB-C port on S22 U, but charging still doesn't work.Wireless charging works flawlessly. I would appreciate any advice.

Alem H. -

It could be an issue with the interconnect cables bridging the USB-C port board and the motherboard, either the cables themselves or their connection to the board. I would try to reseat the interconnect cable press connectors and inspect the cables themselves for any damage.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -