Removing the lid

Written By: Matt Falcon

Comments: 4

Difficulty

Easy

Steps

Time Required

3 minutes

Introduction

Tools

Step 1

Ensure the AC supply to the JuiceBox is disconnected before continuing. If the unit is plug-in, this is easy to simply ensure the box is unplugged from the NEMA 14-50 wall outlet. If hardwired, high-voltage safety training is recommended.

Step 2

Place JuiceBox on a horizontal surface for easiest work.
Three different types of screws were used throughout the history of JuiceBox versions.
Philips #2 (silver screw)
2.5mm hex (rusted black screw)
T20h security Torx (black screw)
If you have a 2.5mm hex screw, be extremely careful with it - they are easy to strip and tend to bind. Use exactly a clean 2.5mm hex bit - don't substitute a Torx or other size. Press down and turn counterclockwise strongly and carefully to unscrew.
Once 4 screws are removed, if your box has LEDs, pay close attention to the next step before proceeding.

Step 3

If your box has LEDs, slowly tilt the edge of the case away, revealing the ribbon cable connected to the board.
Lift the lock in the direction of the ribbon cable, and you should feel the ribbon cable release.
You may now remove the ribbon cable from the board, and place the lid aside.
During reassembly, note that the ribbon cable contacts should face opposite the lock slider (as in photo). To re-insert the ribbon cable, first release the lock, insert the cable, then press the lock back down to latch it in place.

There is a smaller blue wire that comes from the charging cable and runs to the circuit board. That blue wire is not present on replacement cables. What does it do and is it necessary?

smithem -

There are 4 wires essential to any cable that claims to be a J1772 charging cable. Ground (PE), line 1, line 2/neutral, and the Pilot (CP) wire. Optionally, a 5th wire may be present in some cables, Proximity (PP), and can be left out.

If your cable only has 3 wires (line, line, ground), it's not a J1772 cable, and lord only knows how it was manufactured and sold.

The station can't operate with just line, line, and ground, as it can't detect/signal to the car without the small Pilot (CP) wire. So yes, the blue wire is necessary and should be spliced (e.g. wire tied) to the blue (or often, orange) wire.

Matt Falcon - 17/12/23

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Matt Falcon

Member since: 09/05/15

2616 Reputation

2 comments

Thank You! Since Enel X is bankrupt, is there a way to reset Amperage reduction setting back to full by pulling a coin battery or something on the PCB or a jumper?

danwat1234 -

Enel is still active as of today. You should be able to re-connect your box via wifi to internet, and there server. Though a warning - it takes about 3 attempts and you still have to wait ~15~24 hours for your blue led to stay On. Once On, you can access from the Enel X app and reset your Current setting. Then once server is disconnected....one day soon, your charger will stay at that Current until your on-board battery dies. I'm in process of retrofitting a WiFi controller (Alexa, etc) so you can charge (w/o any current protection) at desired time-of-day. If you are interested, I can be reached here; pmp at christmas-songs-parody dot com

labear -