Power Supply Removal

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the smaller sticker near the bottom of the back panel for two minutes.

Use a pair of angled tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the larger sticker near the center of the back panel.

Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape up a corner of the larger sticker until you can grip it with a pair of blunt tweezers.

Use blunt tweezers to peel back the sticker to reveal the second screw.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.

Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.

Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.

Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.

Remove the back panel.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:

One 10.3 mm‑long pancake screw

Two 9 mm‑long screws

Use your fingernails or a pair of angled tweezers to firmly grip the edges of the fan cable connector.

Pull the connector straight out of the socket to disconnect it.

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.

Before installing the fan, make sure it's clean! Use a dust blower or compressed air to blow off any dust or debris, and wipe the fan clean with a clean cloth.

Note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the locking tab holding the base to the shell.

Keep the locking tab held open for the next step.

With the locking tab held open, grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.

Remove the base.

Use a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.

Use an iOpener or a hair dryer to heat the USB port cable.

Slide an opening pick under the USB port cable to separate the adhesive securing it.

Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.

Move the USB port cable out of the way of the chassis.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.

With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm‑long green screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

Grip the chassis and pull it towards the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.

Use two hands to lift out the chassis to remove it from the shell.

Two pegs on the chassis with cutouts on the bottom of the shell.

Three pegs in the shell with cutouts on the chassis.

Gently place the chassis heatsink-side down on a clean work surface.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm‑long screws securing the antenna board to the center chassis.

Grip the top right corner of the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:

Two 13.1 mm‑long screws

One 35 mm‑long screw

Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.

Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.

Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the board shield:

Seven 8.7 mm‑long screws

Two 35 mm‑long screws

One 13 mm‑long screw

Hold the power supply cable out of the way and lift the board shield straight up to remove it.

Open the lid on the power supply's plastic cable guide.

Use your fingers to pinch the power supply's two‑pin power connector, so the locking tab opens outward.

With the locking tab open, lift the connector straight up and out of its socket.

Repeat the previous step to disconnect the power supply's 10‑pin connector.

Pull the end of the rubber strap down and away from the chassis to unlatch it.

Pull the chassis strap off its three alignment posts and unlatch it from the sides of the power supply.

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the corners of the power supply:

Three 35 mm‑long silver screws

One 8.7 mm‑long black screw

Lift the power supply straight up and remove it.