Philips Sonicare DiamondClean HX9340 Battery Replacement

Written By: oldturkey03
  • Comments: 59
Philips Sonicare DiamondClean HX9340 Battery Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

11

Time Required

30 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

The toughest part with this task is the separation of the outer shell and the inner workings. The two tabs that hold it together are hard to locate and separate. They do require a lot of force to actually get separated.

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    • Here is the Philips Sonicare handle HX9340 that no longer holds a charge

    • This is the bottom endcap that requires removal.

    • A few layers of cardboard gets wrapped around the handle to protect it from any marring or other damage.

    Die Endkappe lässt sich ohne Rohrzange relativ einfach mit dem Jimmy raushebeln.

    Martin Jaeger -

    Wenn die Bürste nicht mehr reagiert und auch nicht lädt, muss nicht zwingend der Akku mürbe sein. Bei meiner HX9370 war die Kopfdichtung undicht. Dadurch kam Wasser ins Innere. Nach trockenblasen mit Pressluft lädt und arbeitet die Zahnbürste wieder. Meine Herausforderung ist jetzt noch, eine passende Kopfdichtung zu bekommen.

    Martin Jaeger -

    Z.B. bei Amazon: https://www.amazon.de/BAAQII-Wasserdicht...

    VauWeh -

    You can remove the end cap by applying a bit of glue stick glue on the end cap and then gluing a separate glue stick to it. This way you have a pulling stick for the cap and only need to pull it out. By doing this you can easily remove the end cap without damage to the toothbrush.

    The only thing that might get damaged is the silver layer of paint on the cap.

    Tula -

    • BEFORE trying with tools, it is possible to get the cap off as well as the inner part of the toothbrush without any tools. This will not damage the toothbrush; actually it will possibly save the toothbrush from being marred.

    • Simply push the metal head at the top of the tootbrush downwards into a hard surface with some force and the bottom cap and the inner part will pop out by itself.

    • This works on both old and new Sonicare models.

    • If this worked for you, simply skip Steps 3–6.

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    • Using a pair of pliers to apply some pressure round the handle. The best place to start is the wider part of the rectangular base and about 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom

    • Continue to apply pressures around the whole base of the the handle moving to each side of the rectangular base.

    • It may take a few complete rotations to finally open up the gap between base and handle.

    Beim Öffnen muss man sehr vorsichtig vorgehen, da das Plastik sehr spröde ist und sehr schnell einreißt. Dann ist die Reparatur nämlich vorbei bevor sie begonnen hat.

    Michael S. -

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    • Once the gap opens up, utilize a small flathead screwdriver to insert it into the gap to widen it.

    • Endcap coming out of the handle. Once the gasket will become completely visible

    • the endcap can be removed.

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    • Here is the endcap showing the tabs that hold it securely in place once inserted

    • There will be two plastic tabs that hold the inner workings to the outside handle. These are hard to reach and not easy to see.

    • Using a long small flathead screwdriver (or similar tool) to find those tabs is the difficult part on this job.

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    • Once the tabs have been properly located, insert one tool on each side to loosen compress the base and apply downward pressure on the outer handle. For this the top end of the handle needs to rest against a solid base. It does require a considerable amount of downward force to accomplish this.

    • With the tabs loosened and the handle opushed downward, the inner workings of the toothbrush will loosen and pop out of the handle.

    • Remove the mechanics out of the handle.

    I found I had to use two very thin (almost sharpened) flat screwdrivers to get between the taps and the outer handle. And then push down the outer handle. It's no use just pushing the inner base down.

    Geos Yannis -

    I found I had to use two very thin (almost sharpened) flat screwdrivers to get between the taps and the outer handle, to push them towards the center (i.e. each other), so that they unlock from their recess in the outer handle. And then push down the outer handle to slide out the inner workings. It's no use just pushing the inner base down.

    Geos Yannis -

    Nachdem die Rasten etwas gelockert wurden, kann man mit der Rohrzange auch in deren Höhe kräftig & beherzt drücken (auf die schmale Seite) und dann die Bürste auf kräftig auf den Tisch schlagen (weiter gedrückt hatten) … dann kommt die Mechanik auch heraus

    Jürgen Laskowski -

    Druck mit der Zange in Höhe der Rasten (ohne vorher irgendwas zu lockern) auf der schmalen Seite und gleichzeitig kräftiger Druck nach unten auf den Tisch hat bei mir auch gut funktioniert.

    Martin Niehoff -

    Pheww that was hard. I used the smallest flat head bike tool I had, with flashlight in month, pried open one of the tabs then slid a thin piece of plastic in between (plastic slip cut from plastic cup); then, I proceeded with foing the same on the other side. Success.

    Simon Li -

    That left tab looks kind of mangled. You can’t go straight down to remove the tabs you have to go behind them and twist the screwdrivers to disengage them. I used two small screwdrivers. Once you do that it actually requires very little force to push out of the body.

    Narek Bayanduryan -

    All I had to do was to push the vibrating metal piece in the brush end to hard surface and then hit the open rear end with the palm of the hand. The inside just popped out.

    Goy Alamn -

    Painting knives are great in maintaining the loosed position of the tab on one side without occupying too much space while working the other side

    hello -

    Two small screwdrivers did not work for me, perhaps because the tips were too thick; I think the tips went between the tab and the inside assembly, instead of between the tabs and the case. It's not easy to see, but the tabs engage with indented holes inside the case. I slipped two small pocket knife blades down inside, very flat against the inside of the case, and the tabs easily disengaged. The inside was very easy to push out by pressing on the tip - no hard surface or large amount of force was needed.

    Bruce Girton -

    If you use a similar strategy to removing the end caps, this is pretty easy. Apply pressure to the case walls that are perpendicular to the walls with the tabs and the case will deform enough to let you slide the internals out past the tabs. Worked for me anyway.

    Gabriel Vogel -

    My model is HX993B - which should be very similar. Two screwdrivers are tricky, they are too slippery. I finally managed to slide the inner part out with two toothpicks, they can stay in place and you have free hands..

    My problem was a loose head, because the screw holding it fall out. Just added some thread-lock, tighten it - fixed!

    An image where exactly the toothpick has to be....

    https://pasteboard.co/9ZAGoTUgIq8Y.jpg

    Jens Behrens -

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    • Remove the rubber protectors from the PCB side

    • as well as the battery.

    • Here is the battery to be replaced. Sanyo part number 4235 010 13068

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    • There are three places that will have to be desoldered.

    • Positive battery contact

    • Negative battery contact

    • and a jumper

    • For the jumper the only thing required is to remove the solder between the pads.

    • Apply some flux to the jumper. The pliers will help to stabilize the PCB during soldering. any other means to hold it steady can be used.

    Why do we need to desolder the jumper?

    Ben Williams -

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    • Using a soldering iron, remove the solder bridge between the jumper pads.

    • Using flux and desoldering braid remove the solder from the negative tab of the battery.

    • Solder bridge from jumper cleaned

    • Negative battery tab unsoldered from PCB

    hallo, ich verstehe nicht, warum ich zuerst das Lötzinn zwischen den beiden Lötpunkten entfernen, und später - nach dem Einsetzen des neuen Akkus - die beiden Lötpunkte wieder verbinden muss. Kann ich den Akku nicht austauschen, ohne die Lötbrücke zu trennen?

    Jamanote -

    Gleiche Frage, leider keine Antwort.

    Jan Holler -

    @janholler Yes you can for as long as the battery is not connected to that solder bridge. I can’t remember exactly why I added this to the guide but remember there was a reason for it. Possibly to disconnect the circuitry to prevent a short circuit while replacing the battery.

    oldturkey03 -

    Durch das Auftrennen der Lötbrucke wird der Akku abgetrennt, die Schaltung also spannungsfrei. Dadurch werden Kurzschlüsse verhindert. Also eine reine Sicherheitsmaßnahme, wer will kann das auch überspringen, riskiert halt einen Schaden.

    VauWeh -

    @oldturkey03 That was "Just in time". ;-)

    VauWeh -

    @vauweh I knew there was a good reason for that :-) Thanks brother!

    oldturkey03 -

    Es handelt sich um einen Li-Ion Akku. Nicht umsonst steht auf diesem "Warning: Risk of Explosion".

    Die Brücke sollte man also entfernen und dann mit dem Entlöten des Minus-Pols fortfahren um unter allen Umständen einen Kurzschluss zu vermeiden.

    Michael S. -

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    • Apply flux to the positive contact of the battery on the PCB (Incidental finding is a SMD fuse F1 on this PCB)

    • Using desoldering braid unsolder the positive contact from the PCB.

    • Apply some gentle pressure with a small tool to remove the battery.

    • The battery should remove easily. If it does not, double check the battery contacts on the PCB to ensure they are not still connected somewhere. Another going over with the soldering iron may be required to complete that task.

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    • Battery removed from the PCB and the solder pads on the PCB are now clearly visible

    • In an attempt to determine the type off battery the red plastic covering was removed. The battery is a 3.7V lithium-ion battery that measures approximately (rounded) 14mmX49mm. Roughly the size of a AA battery.

    • The groove on the battery is always on the positive end of the battery.

    The battery is a “14500” Li ion battery. You can find them easily. You can buy them with tabs, or without tabs.

    Geobio Boo -

    I removed the inner mechanics because there was an ugly sound when operating the unit. The pin on which the brush is fixed was rather loose. It turned out that a small screw on top of the unit was loose. Easy fix! Thank you for your excellent description! (Unfortunately I damaged the white sealing ring in the top aperture in the process of reassembling. The ring is VERY subtle, so take care.)

    Peter-Christian -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

oldturkey03

Member since: 29/09/10

805760 Reputation

32 comments

This has helped me a lot and i used it as a base for my fixit tutorial. Thank you!

moritz -

Hallo moritz, bitte tausche in deiner Anleitung die Sprache in Englisch da jetzt die Deutsche Anleitung in Englisch geschrieben ist.

Claes -

Nach dem wechsel der Batterie leuchten alle Lampen, aber die Bürste gibt keine Vibrationen ab. Wo ist der fehler? Hatte jemand dieses Problem?

After replacement of the akku all lamps are flashing but there is no function of the vibration-module. anyone knows this problem?

matze -

Das wird wahrscheinlich daran liegen, dass zwischen der Antriebseinheit und der BürstenWelle kein Platz ist. Sprich der Magnet liegt auf der Antriebseinheit an. Um das Problem zu lösen musst du zwei feststellschrauben lösen, den Spalt herstellen und dann die feststellschrauben wieder anziehen. Dann sollte die BürstenAufnahme wieder schwingen.

Kilian Müller -

Thanks for information. This guide leads to success. *Thumbs up* My Sonicare is back at work now. :-)

Stephan Müller -

Really useful.

Geordi La Forge -

It’s very helpful, I like it very much!!!

I just curious why the jumper have to be desoldered, is this jumper will limit the charge counter?

Thacker -

Great guide, just needed to find out how to open the unit. Found that my problem was a loose screw failing to hold the metal mounting post for the brush head. Had contacted Philips who declined to help with repair but offered a 20% discount code for me to buy from their site. On there site I found my 2.5yr old Philips Sonicare DiamondClean Electric Toothbrush selling for £299.00 before discount and postage! Thanks Philips for trying to get a good portion of my pension this month. Thanks to ifixit and the writer of this guide for helping me not leave that much of my pension with Philips.Great to be able to take control of the situation and repair my own equipment!!!!

Jim dunne -

@ifixitjdunne1 Hey Jim, you are welcome. Glad we could help you save some money. :-)

oldturkey03 -

You have to resolder the jumper when done else it doesn’t work, I presume its a safety thing because you are working with a live battery and a metal tipped soldering iron. I would recommend looking at the other guide for magnet adjustment on here and carrying that out when the battery is removed, I expect most will need this done after some use the coil and magnet move closer together, toothbrush gets noisy and weaker. for reference my battery was a sony one not sanyo. the part number 4235 010 13068. They are 14500 battery with tabs for PCB mount. the specific ones sold on ebay are expensive and possibly fake. I just got a pack of 4 soshine 14500 900mAh and soldered wires on to attach to the pcb

Scott Pattinson -

you have to resolder the jumper, it is required. this must be a saftey thing to isolate battery from pcb while you work on it. recommend that magnet adjustment is done while you have it apart. I used soshine 14500 900mAh battery and soldered some wires to it for pcb attach. I didn’t truest the probably fake specific batteries on ebay that are being sold at inflated prices. The battery I removed was a sony one not sanyo as being sold on ebay. p/n 4235 010 13068

Scott Pattinson -

The “jumper” solder points need to be bridged again for it to work

my toothbrush had a sony battery in it and was about 5 years old when I replaced it. Some of the replacements available on popular sites are not sony. I opted to buy a good brand 14500 battery without the tabs and just solder my own wires to it.

While you have it apart I recommend that the other ifixit guide is followed to get the correct distance between the coil and magnet for best performance

Scott Pattinson -

I attempted this today but my toothbrush still won’t turn on. The new battery tests as working with a multimeter, and the old one is definitely dead. Before I start poking for other failure points, are there other test points I can use to ensure my soldering job is working?

Also, why unsolder the jumper if it just needs to be bridged again?

rsbrogna -

rsbrogna I believe the jumper had to do with the counter plus it was easier for me to do it that way. The only point I can think of where to test is at the fuse on the PCB.

oldturkey03 -

I tried to re-aligned the magnetic motor and when I reassembled the toothbrush there was no power at all. I think it’s because somehow the fuse on the PCB has gone, as if I make a connection across the fuse on the PCB power can return. Is there any way of replacing the fuse so I can get it working again? Thanks

Dan Solomon -

@solly90

Fuse= (watts/volts)X1.25

Watt = Amps x Volt

Watt = .9 X3.7

Watt = 3.3

Fuse = (3.3/3.7)x1.25

Fuse = 1.125

~1.5 Amp fuse will work. Measure the width and length of your fuse to determine the package size and check on places like Mouser or Digikey for a replacement

oldturkey03 -

Has anyone found a source for the small rubber o-ring that is on the outside under the plastic toothbrush for a model HX9340? Mine disentigrated and I do not know size or type.

gww -

Who’d’ve thunk a toothbrush had so much in it. Is that a microprocessor and a serial comms port I see??

Got mine apart in no time at all. Checked the battery voltage (3.8V so that’s OK). The mode LEDs all light up, but the on switch doesn’t turn it on. It was quite wet inside though, probably damaged some of the delicate electronic wizardry. Not a great O-ring seal.

Thanks to ifixit for prompting me and helping me to have a go though.

Nick Arran -

Hi. Just removed mine. Some comments:

Step 3: No need to use a screwdriver to pry out the end cap. Slowly pressuing the handle, while rotating around, it will work itself out. This is better to avoid damaging the end cap and o-ring (as seen in the pics step 5).

Step 6: I just tapped the bottom on the table and it fell down. No need to press inside sides and push end.

Rgds

Happy Guy -

I did replace the battery, placed in the charger and It started blinking green light. In the morning toothbrush was charged but after assembling back I pressed a button and It worked for 3 seconds two times and now it’s again not responding. What may be the reason?!

Sanyo battery replaced with Sony as given in electronic store as a spare battery for HX9340.

Dariusz Sierzputowski -

Vielen Dank für die tolle Anleitung. Meine Zahnbürste funktioniert wieder tadellos.

tanjataller -

Ich konnte den Akku meine Sonicare dank der Anleitung erfolgreich wechseln. Vielen Dank!

PS: Mich würde auch interessieren war um der Jumper entlötet und dann neu verlötet werden muss…

Steffen Engel -

Damit wird der Akku abgeklemmt. Ist eine leicht durchzuführende Maßnahme.

Ginge vielleicht auch ohne, aber sicher ist sicher!

VauWeh -

Hallo,

habe meine Zahnbürste erfolgreich zerlegt, den Akku nachgemessen - ist voll mit 3,8 Volt. Sobald ich den Anschalter betätige, zuckt der Magnet nur mal ganz kurz und man sieht ein sehr kurzes Aufflackern einer LED (auf der Platine neben CR2). Die Zahnbürste verweigert aber nach wie vor den Betrieb. Was kann das sein?

Stefan

Stefan Köhl -

Bei mir das gleiche Problem. Hab auch schon die andere Anleitung bezüglich Motor schwächelt probiert… Kein Erfolg.

Wahrscheinlich ist der interne Zähler von Philips abgelaufen, wie oft man Zahnbürste benutzen darf bis man eine neue kaufen muss :(

Chris O -

Nach dem Akkuwechsel funktionierte nichts mehr.

Die Sicherung F1 war durch.

Wenn ich sie überbrücke, ist alles O.K.

Andreas Schulz -

EN: I have changed the battery and the toothbrush seems to charge (green charging light is blinking), but nothing happes if I press the on button. Its does not even move a little bit and no lights are blinking. What could it be?

DE: Ich habe den Akku getauscht und es sieht so aus als würde er laden (also zumindest blinkt die lade LED), aber wenn ich den Anschalter drücke tut sich gar nichts. Es leuchtet auch nichts und auch kein zucken. An was könnte das liegen?

krafti -

Danke für diesen “Einstieg”,

Das Innenteil habe ich, nach Entfernung des Bodenstopfens, werkzeuglos durch einfaches “Aufstoßen” auf den Handballen herausbekommen.

Da unzählige Standardakkus als “Ersatztypen” für diesen Akku im Internet angeboten werden, sollte man darauf achten, einen bedrahteten zu erwerben, anstatt eines mit Laschen anzuschließenden: Die Löcher für den Anschluss liegen nicht zentrisch, sondern tangential - man muss also etwas biegen.

Zudem musste ich, um mit den modifizierten Laschen “zielen” zu können, die angeschmolzenen zwei Kunststoff-Pinne mit einen feinen Seitenschneiter (ohne Wate) von ihrer Wulst befreien, um den Akku-Kunststoffkäfig etwas von der Platine abziehen zu können.

All das geht viel entspannter, wenn man tatsächlich einen Akku mit Drahtanschluss verwendet, die Drähte passen in die Lötlöcher und sind lang und stabil genug um leicht “eingefädelt” zu werden.

Jürgen Kickert -

Sehr schöne Erläuterung. Wird mir eine große Hilfe sein, wenn die Batterie demnächst endgültig den Geist aufgeben sollte.

Schorsch Salomon -

This worked for me, brilliant, thanks.

Jezzab -

Worked like a charm! Thanks for the great guide!

After reassembly, I was at first disappointed that the vibration felt a bit weak. But to solve it, I didn’t need to follow the other guide for fixing weak vibration. I remembered the easy-start feature for getting used to the toothbrush. After replacing the battery, it was enabled again!

Place the toothbrush in the charger, then press and hold the power button for about 2 seconds.

1 beep indicates that you’ve now turned off easy-start, 2 beeps indicates that you’ve turned it back on.

After turning off easy-start, vibration intensity was as expected again.

Marcel Wirth -

Thank you for the wonderful guide - a few minutes saved me lots of money!

Chris -