Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Motherboard Replacement

Step 1

If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD display.

If I have a screen protector on the screen should I remove it? Will it interfere with the heating process?

IronJoker -

I was wondering if I should put a screen protector on to help keep the screen from cracking???

Kevin -

Step 2

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.
Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

I have done dozens of Surface Pro tablet repairs; if your screen is cracked or chipped AT ALL, you WILL make it worse. Plan on replacing it. Even if it's not cracked or chipped, the likely hood of removing this screen without damage (LCD separation or heat marks in the corners) is very low. Ive tried everything from hot plates to heat mats and the iOpener and nothing is reliable enough. I found that using my Warner heat gun set at 800*c and working on half an edge at a time with a LOT of 91% alcohol in a drip bottle along the edge, along with a very thin guitar pick (not the ones sold here, they are too thick) is the trick to loosening the glue. Work on the side and bottom first. The top is going to be the hardest as the adhesive will stick to the wifi/bluetooth antenna and you WILL tear them (Ive had to replace a fair amount of them). There's a delicate trick to doing it, but it's too hard to describe. If you've never done this repair before, I do not recommend it; find a professional.

Gregg Stanley -

Hi, thanks for the information, Very valuable.

I'm about to do this because my battery and fan aren't working.

There's no way anybody can fix it properly near me. Got any other tip to try not to break the screen and or any flex?

I've done works like this on small tablets and phones, but never this pc. I'll try to go slow.

Thanks again for your experience information.

Fernando A -

Step 3

Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:
These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.
The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and don't insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).
Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.

The bottom red section is narrow and not as thick as the bevel indicates. I went too deep with my tool and cut through a ribbon thinking that I could send my tool as deep as the black bevel edge. its like half that.

Jesse Fair -

I did a screenshot of this image to always see it while progressing through the steps and did exactly the same mistake. I read every comment in the steps below but yours only now :( On my device it's 5mm from the edge of the screen glass to the ribbon.

WapitiSumpf -

I cut through as well, but was able to carefully solder the edges together enough to make a connection - works fine.

L Schaffer -

Step 4

Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.
Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Step 5

Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.

Step 6

Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.
Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Step 8

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.
Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm) along the bottom edge.
Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Yep. I scratched the corner of the LCD with the pick. Take the warning seriously folks! It’s really easy to do.

Laurence Mayer -

The warning says to not insert it more than 12mm but it should be not more than 5mm. There is a ribbon/display connection at the bottom and i damaged it.

WapitiSumpf -

Exactly! The bezel is much smaller at the bottom side and you will hit the LCD if you push deeper than 6mm.

mowny -

Step 9

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.
Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Step 10

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.
Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged.
Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.
Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.
Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Step 12

Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.
The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.

The right antenna is kind of P shaped (rotated 90° to the right) with the small end facing the middle. I'd suggest to stop at the middle when loosening the left antenna and to do the same thing coming from the right.

WapitiSumpf -

Step 13

Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.
Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.
Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.
Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.

Bij mijn exemplaar bleek het onmogelijk om de bovenrand volgens de aanwijzingen los te maken. Ik heb de boel vele keren opgewarmd en ben meerdere malen met het plectrum langs de rand gegaan. Maar er beleef iets hardnekking vastplakken. Ik moest uiteindelijk de lijmverbindingen los maken zoals bij de andere randen. Achteraf bleek dat bij het gedeelte waar de antennes zaten het frame en het scherm volledig met elkaar verlijmd zaten met de antennes er tussen. Dat kostte me uiteindelijk de antennes. Gelukkig geen schade aan andere zaken. Niet zo'n grote ramp want ik kon nog antennes bestellen. Maar hou er rekening mee.

EverB1 -

Step 14

Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.

Step 15

Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.
Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.
Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.

iFixit should show the closeups of the edges of the chassis, after the screen has been removed showing where the glue needed to be cut and the proximity to other internal parts so the repair tech can anticipate what they can't see and avoid being too aggressive. Show the difference between a clean removal vs one that was problematic in breaking the seals around the edges.

Tarzan1812 -

Step 16

Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.
Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.

Step 17

Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair:
Use one tip of a pair of angled tweezers to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth."
Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.
Try not to deform the shields too much—you will need to reinstall them during reassembly.
To reinstall, correct any deformations to the best of your ability, make sure the "teeth" align with the rim on the motherboard, and press down on the entire perimeter of the EMI shield.
Make sure all "teeth" are snug to the metal rim and not bent underneath the EMI shield.

Step 18

Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.

Step 19

Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.

Step 20

Remove the screen from the Surface.
During reassembly, pause here and follow this guide to replace the screen adhesive.

Step 21

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm screws securing the antenna support bracket.

This screw bit was not included in the battery replacement kit. Only Philips and Flathead were included.

ComputerRepairAcct -

This Torx bit was not included in the battery replacement kit. Only a Philips and Flathead bit

ComputerRepairAcct -

this screw bit was not included, lucky I did not get the battery from you guys and that battery had this kind of screw driver included.

Stars V -

used phillips bit and stripped screws

Too old to change -

Step 22

Carefully remove the antenna support bracket.
Be careful not to snag any cables. Do not force the bracket out if it is stuck.

I had ripped through 2 of the 3 antennas when cutting through the top adhesive. Not sure how anyone removes this display without ruining at least one of them.

I saw on Reddit this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupportmacg...

It works perfectly! My wifi was one that was cut. It’s now made of aluminum foil and is pulling down 147Mbps and pushing 80.88Mbps up.

Joshua Snavely -

A ce stade il semble important de faire attention au micro. Pour ma part, il avait un résidu de colle entre celui-ci et le support à retirer.

Jean-Claude Guinel -

On my device the mic is glued to the antenna board. I'd recommend to detach it's ribbon cable from the motherboard before removing the antenna board

WapitiSumpf -

what is this clear round plastic piece that came off with the display glue? cant add picture

Too old to change -

Step 23

Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.
Take care not to puncture the battery with the tweezers while working on this shield.

Step 24

Repeat the last step at various locations around the perimeter of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.
Remove the CPU shield.

Step 25

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws from the heat sink:
One 2.4 mm screw along the top of the rectangular plate covering the battery.
Make sure you don't lose this bracket, as it might separate from the heatsink.
One 2.2 mm screw along the bottom of the rectangular plate covering the battery

La première vis de 2,4 est une Torx 4, pour ce qui me concerne et non pas une Torx 3.

Attention la deuxième vis est bien une TORX 3

Remarque : La boite à outil "Essentiel electronics Toolkit - Grade B (ref EU145571-1)" ne contient pas l'embout T3

Pour ma part j'ai utilisé donc le T4 en forçant un peu. Pas cool ;-(

Jean-Claude Guinel -

2.4 is not included in kit either I'm going mad I want to fix my surface pro but now I gotta go buy 2.4 and 2.2 torx screwdriver

Stars V -

Step 26

The heat sink is firmly adhered to the fan.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove three 2.4 mm screws securing the fan.
Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the final 4.4 mm screw securing in the fan cover.

These screws were in a different area on my Surface, Pro 4 bought at release. The fan was visible and attached to the heat sink. Remove the two torx screws on the fan housing. No need to remove the Philips head screws that secure the fan.

mike_mcquillan - 25/04/18

My Surface Pro 4 has a fan here. Remove the screws around the fan and the whole heatsink including the fan can now be lifted off. DO NOT try and remove the heatsink from the fan as it is glued on.

Andy - 31/12/19

Sorry I’m super brand new to the game. I don’t know the difference between 1.5mm Torx T4 and 3.0mm Torx T4. I look under tools I need to buy, and the tool kits only say Torx T4 or T5, without the milimeters dimensions.

MInh Le Nguyen - 15/05/20

Je fais écho au commentaire de vennic, les longueurs indiqués en mm sont les longueurs des vis et n’impactent pas les tournevis à utiliser. Bien ranger les vis par longueur permets de mettre les bonnes vis aux bons endroits lors du remontage de l’appareil.

Cajuteq - 08/06/20

MInh Le Nguyen, the mm size refers to the length of the screws, not the size of the bit driver

vennic - 05/06/20

Don’t forget to unplug the fan (if present) before yanking on the heat sink! It’s just a small grey clasp that needs to be lifted up.

vennic - 19/12/20

The fan connector on mine was held in place by a white clamp on the side closest to the middle of the chassis. The long edge toward the middle flips up to vertical. That frees up the fan connector. Likewise for the black “wire” connector right beside it.

David Hill - 20/12/20

As previously mentioned, the fan should be disconnected (look at step 36) BEFORE you remove the fan/heat sink assembly. Ive done DOZENS of these repairs and the fan has always been part of the heat sink assembly.

Gregg Stanley -

I did all of this, now surface won't turn on. Any ideas?

AlejandroC -

Step 27

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the heat sink screws surrounding the CPU in the following pattern, one turn at a time, until they're free.
Screw 1
Screw 2
Screw 3
Screw 4
During reassembly, use the same method to install these screws, tightening one turn at a time until each screw is snug.

These screws were T5 Torx in mine, not T3 as in the instructions.

Joshua Snavely -

T5 Torx screwdriver is correct.

Majid Mazouchi -

T4 Torx for me.

Geert Timmermans -

What does one turn at a time mean?

Fernando Ramirez -

One turn for the "red" screw, one for the orange, one for the yellow, then green and now again one turn red, orange, yellow, green ... This cross pattern distributes the pressure evenly .

VauWeh - 25/12/22

I think I need a T6 torx screw the screwdriver is not working for these screws

Hassan Ali - 01/01/24

Step 28

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU.
Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

Hallo, kurze Frage ist der Kühlkörper also die Kupferstücke innen hohl?

Peter Pyzik -

Step 29

Insert the pointed end of a spudger into a screw hole in the fan shield and lift up to separate it from the fan.
The fan shield is held in place with light adhesive.
Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

The fan should be disconnected (look at step 36) BEFORE you remove the fan/heat sink assembly. Ive done DOZENS of these repairs and the fan has always been part of the heat sink assembly.

Gregg Stanley - 17/08/22

I'm not sure if adhesive was involved or if time and heat had caused the protective plastic film under the top section of fan to stick to the heat sink, but I had to use the Spudger to separate the heat sink from the plastic film to get it out.

Ryan -

These instructions were correct for my Surface. The fan cover was attached to the heatsink but the fan was not.

Eddie McGlone -

Step 30

Carefully remove the heatsink.
During reassembly, make sure to properly clean the heat sink and CPU, and apply new thermal paste.

Fan assembly may be taped to heat sink so fan screws and ribbon cable can be disconnected to remove as one with heat sink.

Matt Dove -

Step 31

Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the camera connectors.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Remove the EMI shield.

Step 32

Pry up with the pointed end of your spudger to disconnect all three camera cables from the motherboard.

Missing the part to disconnect the ribbon to the left of the cameras, luckily, it disconnected by itself when I removed the motherboard.

Marcus Stange -

Yes that's very important (white and blue socket on photo) !

I forgot to reconnect it on reassembly (unluckily, it doesn't reconnect by itself ;o)

Phil68 -

Step 33

Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector securing the volume/power button cable.
Gently slide the volume/power button cable out of the ZIF connector.

While you're here, you'll want to disconnect the ZIF connector directly opposite from this one, which can be seen in the lower right of these photos, nearer the camera cable connection points. The guide doesn't mention removing that cable, but you'll need it removed before you can lift out the motherboard.

Nick -

Step 34

Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector.
Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Be gentle—the speaker wires are delicate.
During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

1. the picture can be misleading

2. use the flat end instead or you might damage the plastic part of the connector. see Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Left Speaker Replacement

wiu -

Step 35

Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the fan and headphone jack ZIF connectors.

The fan should be disconnected when you removed the fan/heat sink assembly in Step 29 (which is NOT mentioned).

Gregg Stanley -

Step 36

Use the pointed end of your spudger to gently slide the fan and headphone jack cables out of their ZIF connectors.

The fan should be disconnected when you removed the fan/heat sink assembly in Step 29 (which is NOT mentioned).

Gregg Stanley -

Step 37

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following screws from the fan:
One 2.5 mm screw with coarse threads
Two 2.4 mm screws

I didn't realize that one screw (red) here was different, and it looks like I put it in a different place during assembly, and the remaining screw, of course, did not hold. Be careful with the screws!

I have a question: can I buy a set of these screws for Surface Pro 4 to change the spoiled ones? I noticed that sometimes they get damaged on top and it is difficult to screw them on afterwards.

Olga Gold -

Step 38

Use a spudger to lift one side of the fan.
Pick up the fan and remove it.

Step 39

Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the microSD card reader cable and connector.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Remove the shield.

Step 40

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the microSD card reader's connector straight up out of its socket.
Lift the microSD card reader cable up and out of the way of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly.
Only bend the cable as much as is necessary to access the EMI shield. Do not fold or bend the cable sharply.

It's probably best to remove the microSD card reader at this point. The guide never states to remove it, but it eventually disappears from the photos. Two T5 screws are all that are holding it down. Easier to take those out and remove the assembly than to try to remove the EMI shield underneath while also holding the ribbon cable out of the way.

Nick -

Not necessary to remove the reader. When reinserting the motherboard, you can slide it easily enough underneath it. It may make it easier, but isn't necessary.

Gregg Stanley -

A ce stade, la nappe était coller sur le blindage. Pour ne pas trop plier la nappe, j'ai poussé la spatule. La colle n'était pas trop résistante.

Jean-Claude Guinel -

Step 41

Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly cable connector.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Remove the shield.

Do steps 44 and 45 first to completely remove the SD card reader and cable. That way the cable is not in the way during these steps.

Ryan -

Step 42

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining lock securing the charging assembly cable connector.

Take the two T5 Screws out of the SD card slot and remove it here as well. It's not mentioned later but it must be removed to slide the motherboard out easily.

Dustin -

Step 43

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the connector.
Alternating from one side to the other, gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

Step 44

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the microSD card reader.

Step 45

Remove the microSD card reader.

Step 46

Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector between the processor and right speaker.
Disconnect the cable from the ZIF connector.

During reassembly, do this before installing the speaker.

mattnovi -

The removal of that cable is also much(!) easier after removal of the speaker, as there is more space for the cable to slide out (and later in)

Karl Waldmann -

This one broke during reassembling, so I could not fix the connector properly. I tried to find out what it is, but the only hint I found was, that it is some kind of antenna. I could not find out what kind of antenna. Anyway, after completion everything I needed worked fine: Bluetooth and Wireless LAN. I appreciate any hint about the purpose of this antenna.

Josef Lichtscheindl -

That's my question too

Mj Ro -

Perhaps one of the two WiFi frequencies (2.4 or 5 GHz)?

Phil68 -

If it was indeed for Wi-Fi then wireless LAN would not work for one or the other freq,'s

I too broke the ZIF connector beyond repair. Hopefully its only related to the speaker on that side.

Has to be a better way...the snap in plug was being stubborn. The plug seat broke away from the circuit board. Now I only have the male and female ends and no way to easily solder back to the board.

Tarzan1812 -

Step 47

Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the right speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector.
Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Be gentle—the speaker wires are delicate.
During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

Step 48

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following screws from the fan and motherboard:
Ten 2.4 mm screws
Two 2.2 mm screws
Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the right speaker:
One 4.2 mm screw
One 6.0 mm screw

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove screw in left and right speaker.

Fredrik Strange - 29/12/21

BE CAREFUL! Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove an ADDITIONAL screw on the top corner of the right speaker. It should not take a tremendous amount of force to remove the speaker.

John Ryan -

This screw is in the frame of the SP4. Mine was a T3.

Rashad Parker -

An additional screw has been marked up and added to the original photo regarding the issues with the right fan removal. Thanks to the community for the feedback!

Clay Eickemeyer -

Step 49

As you remove the motherboard, there's a chance it'll short-circuit against the battery connector. Block this connection to prevent damage.
Slightly lift the left edge of the motherboard.
Insert a playing card or similar object between the battery connector and the motherboard.
If your card catches on the underside of the motherboard, wiggle the card until it slides fully underneath.
If you're reassembling your Surface Pro with a new battery, remove the playing card now.

how will I know if the battery/ motherboard got short circuit? I did replace the battery without separating the connection and the surface have no power. Please advise

T Nassar -

Make sure "Insert a playing card" or "similar object" is "non-conductive" in nature and materials

Tarzan1812 -

Step 50

Grip the narrow section of the right speaker box and lift it up slightly.
Slide the right speaker back out of the chassis.
Remove the right speaker.

I didn’t read about the other T5 (about 6 mm) holding down the right speaker. It needs to be removed prior to this step.

Laurence Mayer -

You also need to remove a screw in the top right corner of the speaker

Daniel Bergstorm -

Yup there is an unmentioned t5 screw that the other comments catch

Scott Smith -

Step 51

Remove the motherboard by first lifting the left side until it is at roughly a 30 degree angle.
Gently slide the I/O ports on the motherboard out from their openings and remove the motherboard.
During reassembly, make sure the charging assembly, left speaker, and three camera cables are not trapped under the motherboard before you proceed.

There seems to be an additional ZIF connector by the Left most camera that also needs to be disconnected. Beware.

Also, the micro SD reader obstructs a little bit (at bottom right )as you remove the motherboard.

Scott Smith -

Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Motherboard Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

3 comments