Logitech G502 Hero Disassembly

Written By: spslizer

Comments: 34

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 hour

Introduction

This guide will show you how to safely disassemble a Logitech G502 Hero mouse in preparation for replacing internal components of the mouse for repair or refurbishment.

Tools

Step 1

To keep it out of the way, wrap the USB cable using the integrated Velcro cable tie
If the Velcro cable tie is damaged or missing, a twist tie works just as well

Step 2

Remove the weight cover from the bottom of the mouse by lifting it up by the mouse foot.
You can remove the tuning weights if desired, but this is not necessary for disassembly.

Step 3

Using a heat gun (set to low), heat up the three mouse feet for several seconds each.
Slide an opening pick under both the mouse feet and the adhesive underneath it.
If done correctly, you should be able to peel off the mouse feet with the adhesive still attached.
If the adhesive does not come off with the feet you can scrape it off with a spudger.

Step 4

Remove the four Phillips screws holding the two halves of the mouse together.

the top screw is actually more to the right and wrongly marked in the picture

Dennis Schwertel -

Step 5

Insert the flat end of a plastic spudger into the area indicated between the top and bottom shells.
The two halves of the mouse will split almost completely apart with very little force.
Do not attempt to pull apart the two halves just yet.

From the point of view of the photo, approach from the right, horizontally. Do not push down from above, as the tool may slip between the upper shell and the thumbpad. The rubber is weak and I tore right through it.

Stephen -

Step 6

Insert the flat end of a plastic spudger between the top and bottom shells on the left side of the mouse, next to the left click.
The top and bottom shells will completely separate, allowing the top shell to be lifted off.
Use caution to avoid snapping the plastic clips holding the two halves together.

Step 7

Using the flat end of a plastic spudger, carefully lift up both sides of the lock that secures the ribbon cable.
With the lock released, the ribbon cable should easily be removed from the connector.
Do not use too much force releasing the lock, otherwise the connector may be damaged.

Step 8

Remove the side board by pulling it straight out to access the ribbon cable connector.
Using the same technique that was used with the Hero sensor ribbon cable connector, disengage the cable lock.
Remove the ribbon cable with the side board.

Step 9

The scroll wheel assembly is held in by a retaining bar, which will need to be removed
Using the pointed end of a plastic spudger, push the retaining bar out from the right side.
Once you've done this you can remove the retaining bar.

Step 10

Pull the scroll wheel assembly off of the mouse.
There are two small springs for the scroll wheel click actions; these are very small and easily lost.

Step 11

Remove the four Phillips screws near the front of the mouse.
Remove the Phillips screw near the ribbon cable plug for the Hero sensor.
The cradle for the scroll wheel assembly can now be removed.

Step 12

Using the flat end of a plastic spudger, disconnect the USB cable plug from the main board by pushing out the male end of the plug.
Once there is enough of a small gap, the pointed end of the spudger can be used to push the plug out
Remove the main board from the mouse bottom shell.

Step 13

With the main board removed, the Hero sensor board is revealed.
Remove the two Phillips screws holding the Hero board in.
Using tweezers, carefully remove the two nylon spacers from the posts.
Remove the Hero sensor board.

Step 14

Start by taking off the clear plastic piece on top of the cable stress reliever.
With the clear plastic piece remove, the cable can be removed at the stress reliever and bottom shell.

Step 15

All internal components for reference
Phillips screws
Scroll wheel springs
Hero sensor nylon spacers
Ribbon cables for side board and Hero sensor board
Scroll wheel assembly
Scroll wheel cradles and retaining bar

Conclusion

Replace necessary parts and then follow these instructions in reverse order to reassemble.

Author

spslizer

Member since: 10/03/20

2049 Reputation

32 comments

What’s that button near at the spring on top. Is that a middle mouse button? (yellow button thing at the middle at the top)

Nicholin V -

You are correct, that is the middle mouse button

spslizer -

What’s a good replacement switch for the 2 main left/right buttons? They say OMRON 3159C21 D2FC-F-K

Anthony Clark -

That’s a good switch to replace them with

Me personally, I like to pull the switches off of other mice, like those rebranded Logitech ones that are bundled with some computers

The G502 is easy enough to pull apart and put back together that I don't mind replacing the switches on occasion

spslizer -

Oh shoot, you have to do soldering to replace switches? Those black boxes? Yikes, may be something I dont want to mess with if so. If I can just figure out how to clean them I will try that, but if I have to replace them with soldering, I am doomed lol

Living Simple And Fun -

@spslizer sorry I wasn’t clearer before: the switches that are on the primary/secondary buttons are the OMRON D2FC-F-K and the primary switch has failed. I’m replacing them both with Kailh GM 8.0 switches since they seemed to have a good reputation.

I definitely need to study desoldering more though, I am having a lot of trouble removing the bad switches!!

Anthony Clark -

I find that the easiest way to desolder them is to heat up the existing solder, add more new solder, then use a desolder vacuum pump as close as you can to the pin while your iron is still there. If there's still a small residual amount “tacking” it on, heat up the pad around the hole and then wiggle the switch around

It helps to have a helping hands station and a pair of tweezers or hemostats to hold the switch, as the switch and pads will get hot

spslizer -

Hi! I was just wondering if you knew the dimensions of the screw! I lost one when I took it apart and now my right click is a little bit wonky. Thanks!

Sophie T -

Hi Sophie. I unfortunately cannot find the shell and screws of one of these mice.

I would recommend trying one of the shell screws from one of the bottom holes and put it in the hole under the right click or the front hole, depending on which is missing

The microswitch may also be on its way out; a “bounce” click when you click and hold is a good indication of this

spslizer -

Disregard the first part of my comment. I have the measurements from the shell screws

On mine they are M2x10.25mm screws. The head looks to be about 3.25mm wide

spslizer -

Can you plz let me know the dimensions of yellow button (middle click button)? Thanks.

Mujtaba Ali Panjwani -

From my measurements with a non-digital caliper, it is approximately 9.5mm square, with a height of approximately 1mm

If measuring from the outside where the component is indented for the contacts, it is about 8.5mm. The button looks almost like a very stubby “+” symbol. I hope this information helps!

spslizer -

It's 4 x 4 x 0.8mm. I had to replace the middle click button of my Proteus Spectrum (also a G502 model, much earlier than the hero)

Ian Troy Alvaran -

Gracias! pude cambiar los botones de mouse sin problema

Daniel Barros -

Super Anleitung! Habe mit der Anleitung meine Maus schnell zerlegen und die neuen Ersatzteile einbauen können.

Die Ersatzteile habe ich von:

https://ammigoo.de/search?type=product&o...

Malte Fuchs -

My left mouse button stopped functioning properly and I saw a solution for anotheer mouse that said open it up, get to the button sensor (not sure the exact name, and clean off some build up, like is it oxidation? I need to look it up again. But basically, it affects the sensor so that the button wont accept to be held down. You press the button down but it acts like a normal button click.

So now I need to find the sensor and clean it, or replace it. Because the mouse is useless without a good left mouse button.

I see the housing for the sensor (i assume those black boxes under each button. I just need to safely open it up and clean inside.

Living Simple And Fun - 26/10/22

You are correct, the rectagular boxes are the microswitches. It doesn't surprise me that oxidation or even just dust and skin oils could lead to these buttons not working. I've always just replaced the microswitches entirely if they fail or go on the fritz; assuming the the microswitch can be opened up, cleaned, and put it back together, then I don't see why not give it a try

spslizer -

It wont let me reply to you directly for some reason even though I can anybody else, but I am trying to figure out how to open the box up now.
That said, I dont mind changing it out, except I need to know how to safely remove the box. They dont have instructions on that part. Hopefully I can find a video about this online for a mouse with a similar set up.

Living Simple And Fun -

Thank you for the disassembly walk-through. I just replaced the right mouse button with an OMRON D2FC-F-7N and it is a little more firm and makes a little more click. I also had some D2FC-F-K on order but I was impatient.

Trevor Bugera -

Hello, do I need to buy new rubber feet for the mouse or is it possible to reuse the ones I removed? How should i place them back? I don't wanna glue them down because maybe I will need to open it again in the future.

Chilled Gaming -

You should buy new feet/skates just in case. It's easy to mess up the removal. I heated them up and still destroyed one. The bigger rubber skate at the front separated from the glue and was no longer reusable. The rest came off pretty easily.

AlienFreak -

Thanks for the guide. I had the mouse 1 actuator on two of these mice become dodgy for the mouse 1 hold. Was fine for single clicks.

Used isopropyl alcohol and an air blaster to clean the case properly and all is good. It's amazing how little dirt it takes to impede the click, can really feel the difference

SirShortFuse -

My first Logitech mouse that I bought in the early 2000s lasted almost a decade. I'm on my fourth Hero, thanks to this guide I no longer have to repurchase these mice. I can just fix them now myself but I sure do wish they made them quality like how they did before.

Steven Garcia -

The guide doesn't say how to remove the wheel from the cradle. It's a bit of a PITA but I managed it with the tweezers.

To remove the wheel from the cradle, you have to remove a small screw underneath, pull the cradle off, then pull the retaining pin for the metal bit that sticks inside the wheel away from the transparent plastic assembly that contains the wheel. To get the wheel out, what I did was push the tweezers in as if to grab the wheel itself. You have to push them in pretty deep. The tips of the tweezers should be positioned underneath the middle section of the wheel where the wheel clips in. The tweezers thickness will spread the plastic, then you just pull the wheel out.

It was pretty hard for me as an amateur. There's a risk that the plastic could break, but I managed to get it out safely.

AlienFreak -

I took a photo for reference when I started assembling it back.

https://i.imgur.com/louqoU9.jpg

Note that the metal pin can be pulled out entirely. Be careful not to lose it though. I only pulled mine enough to get it out of the wheel. It's not necessary to remove it completely.

AlienFreak -

For me personally (the latching of) the scroll wheel feels a bit awkward (too right or too loose, I am not sure?) Sometimes when scrolling with too light touch on the wheel it scrolls forward but then pops back a notch when letting go and other times when I only want to scroll one line it scrolls more than one line too easy. Looking at the pictures (spring loaded metal bar pressing against notches on the inside of the wheel) it seems there is no easy fix for this? Anyone who has had this mouse open, do you think it would be possible to change the tension of the spring to make the scroll-latching more/less resistive? Or maybe even reshape (deepen/steepen?) the notches on the inside of the wheel.... Can't really tell from the pictures what the best options would be - or buy different mouse :)

M.K. -

Thanks for this very detailled and usefull tutoriel !

ml4nc3 -

hello can anyone tell me a part number for switch 3 under the mouse wheel . mine fell and its not working right the switch dome is crunched

mauryk -

I just want to be able to clean out all the gunk and grease making my mouse buttons stick.

In the future, I'll make it a point to pass on the pretty, ergonomic design that makes this unnecessarily complicated in favor of a design that makes it a quick and simple process.

Believe it or not, for some of us, function > form.

True talent is delivering on both.

Ron Lawrence -

This is a great first half of the disassembly, but does not seem to cover any of the shell/button disassembly. See https://imgur.com/gallery/Et5fIJk for photos and instructions on that. Feel free to add the photos to this post.

Browner87 -

super helpful took apart the procteus core I have since the very beginning for a deep clean and it feels like its out of the box for the first time in 10 years

the most tricky part was actually taking the outershell of because of the snaps in front of the mouse (thanks for the photo).

had an issue with the scroll click for ages and now its fixed. cleaned the click itself and took apart the wheel casing. be careful with the little clip the sits inside the actual wheel you can puh it outside and hold it in the casing while you work on the wheel. I had to use a pick to snap the wheel and hold the hole where it sits in the side without the clip and the slunger on the other to take it apart, the clear plastic casing is quite strong and not prune to snap under normal force. remove the wheel to take the gunk out of the casing and it scrolls way better, seems to be the issue in logitech mice that issues ratchet/free spin mechanism just waiting on the mxmaster 3 skates to take it apart as well.

also lost a spring

caramelo94 -

Thanks for this! I spilt some tea on my new(ish) mouse, so used this guide to open and rinse out the tea with propanol. Hopefully once it dries out it'll work. Fingers crossed!

Duncan -