Kobo Clara BW Screen Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 0

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen in your Kobo Clara BW eReader.

If your screen is cracked, unresponsive, or not lighting up, you may need to replace it.

The screen part comes with the display pre‑installed into the frame, so you'll need to transfer all the internals from your old eReader into the new screen.

Following this guide will remove your eReader's IP (Ingress Protection) rating, making it susceptible to water damage.

If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

After this repair, follow this guide to calibrate your eReader to your replacement screen. If you don't, you might experience "ghosting" or visual artifacts of the E ink.

Kobo supports their eReaders with a warranty. If your device is still under warranty, Kobo may be able to help. Before starting a repair, review your warranty information or check support documentation.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Drain your eReader's battery as much as possible before starting your repair. Ideally, it should be fully discharged.
Optionally, to drain the battery faster, navigate to More → Settings → Energy saving and privacy and set Automatically go to sleep after and Automatically power off after to Never.
When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery.
Unplug all cables and fully shut down your eReader.
Your screen should be black and say Powered off.

Step 2

Lay your eReader down so the back cover is facing up.
Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the frame and the bottom left corner of the back cover.
Push the pick downwards at a slight angle until it slides under the back cover.

Step 3

Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.

Step 4

Remove the pick and reinsert it under the bottom left corner.
Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom left corner to release its clips.
If you're having trouble, try twisting the pick to lift the corner clips out of their slots.

Step 5

Slide the pick toward the top left corner to release the clips along the left edge.

Step 6

At this point, you should be able to grip the back cover and release its remaining clips. If not, slide a pick under the perimeter of the back cover until you can grip an edge.
Grip the left edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.
Remove the back cover.
During reassembly, align the back cover over the eReader and press along the perimeter until all its clips snap back into place.

Step 7

The entire surface of the eReader's internals is covered in a thin, plastic-like waterproof coating. Keep the following in mind as you continue disassembly:
While this won't hurt your device, removing the coating compromises the device to potential water damage.
The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.
The ZIF connector locking tabs are coated in a gel that can jam the hinge and keep the locking tab from completely unlocking. Make sure the tabs are completely upright before disconnecting any cables.
Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating from ZIF connectors and their cables.

Step 8

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the battery connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 9

Use the tip of a spudger to scrape up the coating along the white battery connector head—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.

Step 10

Use pointed tweezers to peel off all of the coating around the battery connector head and its socket.
If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the connector and try again.
This is a meticulous process! Failure to remove enough of the coating could damage the plastic head during disconnection, so take your time!

Step 11

Insert the point of a spudger under the edge of the battery connector head opposite of the cable.
There's a surface-mounted component close to the connector. Be careful not to touch it with your spudger!
Lift up the connector with the spudger to separate the rest of the coating and disconnect the battery.
During reassembly:
Inspect the connector head and its socket for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating, heating the area when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating so the connector head sits properly in its socket.

Step 12

When working on or near the battery, don't use sharp metal tools to avoid puncturing and shorting the battery! A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and catch fire.
If your battery comes with stretch release adhesive, follow the next two steps to remove them.
Otherwise, skip ahead three steps to remove the normal adhesive.

Step 13

The next two steps show how to remove a battery that's secured by stretch release adhesive.
Use tweezers to pull on the battery adhesive strip's pull tab until you can grip it with your fingers.
While holding the battery in place, pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
You can also wrap the adhesive strip around a spudger and "roll" it for a more consistent pull.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers and continue pulling—but don’t pry under the battery.
If you can't retrieve a strip, don't worry! Remove as much adhesive as possible and skip down two steps for an alternate method.

Step 14

Lift the battery out of the frame and remove it.
If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.
Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install a new battery or to transfer an old battery to a new screen.

Step 15

The next four steps show how to remove a battery that's secured by regular adhesive.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the right edge of the battery.
Tilt the eReader up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery and wait one minute for it to soften the adhesive.

Step 16

Slide a plastic card a half an inch (~13 mm) under the top right corner of the battery.
Rotate the plastic card so its short edge sits under the right edge of the battery.

Step 17

Slide the plastic card under the battery to separate the adhesive and the thin layer of coating.
Don't bend or crease the battery! Avoid prying or lifting up with the plastic card.
If you're having trouble, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Step 18

Lift the battery off the frame and remove it.
If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.
Never reuse a damaged battery! If your battery shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one.
During reassembly, follow this guide to install a new battery or to transfer an old battery to a new screen.

Step 19

There are surface-mounted components next to the power button ZIF connector. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid dislodging them.
Insert the tip of a spudger under the right side of the power button ZIF connector's black locking tab.
Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.
The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

Step 20

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 21

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.
Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help you get a tighter hold on the cable.
Keep pulling on the cable until the cable comes completely out of its socket.
During reassembly:
Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

Step 22

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 23

Peel off the coating along one of the long edges of the power button board.
The side doesn't matter! Choose whichever side has the easiest-to-remove coating.

Step 24

Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the base of the power button board—enough so you can grab clumps of it with tweezers.
Don't use tweezers to scrape the coating, as you could accidentally puncture the board.

Step 25

Use tweezers to peel off the coating on the power button board.
If the coating becomes too brittle and hard to peel off, reheat the board and try again.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating so the board can move freely during the next four steps.

Step 26

The adhesive securing the power button board is strong and requires time and patience to separate properly. Follow the next four steps closely to avoid damaging the power button board.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 27

Insert an arm of pointed tweezers under the edge of the power button board that you separated the coating from.
If you're having trouble, reheat the board and try again.
Slide the arm along the edge of the board to separate enough adhesive to fit an opening pick under the board.
Keep the arm as flat to the frame as possible to avoid scratching the metal.

Step 28

Remove the tweezers and immediately replace it with the tip of an opening pick to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Slide the pick along the edge of the power button board to separate the adhesive.

Step 29

Rotate the opening pick under the bottom of the power button board and under its cable.
Slide the opening pick along the other edge of the board to separate the remaining adhesive.

Step 30

Pull the power button board off the frame and remove it.
During reassembly, follow this guide to transfer your power button board to a new screen or to install a new one.

Step 31

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the digitizer cable ZIF connector.
The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

Step 32

Apply a heated iOpener to the digitizer cable ZIF connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 33

Grip the digitizer cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.
Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.
During reassembly:
Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

Step 34

There are surface-mounted components next to the display ZIF connector. Follow the instructions carefully to avoid dislodging them.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right side of the ZIF connector's black locking tab.
Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.
The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

Step 35

Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the display connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 36

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the corner of the display cable closest to the charging port.
Pull the cable away from the ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corner.
If you're having trouble, try rocking the cable side-to-side while pulling.
Gripping the tweezers closer to the tip can help with getting a tighter hold on the cable.

Step 37

Repeat the previous step for the other corner until the the cable comes completely out of its socket.

Step 38

Lift up the display cable and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.
During reassembly:
Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in the connector.

Step 39

Lift the display cable out of the way of the backlight cable underneath.
Use the point of a spudger to lift up the blue locking tab on the backlight cable ZIF connector.
The locking tab should be nearly vertical when unlocked. If not, gently push the tab forward to compress the gel and completely unlock the tab.

Step 40

Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the backlight connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer or a heat gun.

Step 41

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.
If the coating feels stubborn, reheat the connector and try again.
Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.
During reassembly:
Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.
Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.
It doesn't have to look pretty! You just need to remove enough coating to have the cable sit properly in its connector.

Step 42

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.4 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard.

Step 43

Slide an opening pick under the top left corner of the motherboard and lift it up enough to grip the motherboard with your fingers.

Step 44

Angle the motherboard up and pull it toward the top edge of the eReader to remove it.
During reassembly, slide the charging port into its slot at an angle before pressing the motherboard flat to the frame.

Step 45

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 3 mm‑long screws securing corners of the front cover.

Step 46

The screen is secured by adhesive along the perimeter of the front cover and a layer of coating at the bottom edge.
Bend the top edge of the front cover around the screen to separate the adhesive.

Step 47

Lift the top edge of the screen to separate any remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the front cover.
Slide the screen toward the top of the eReader to expose the coating at the bottom edge.

Step 48

Lift and rotate the screen off the bottom edge of the front cover to separate the coating.
Remove the screen.
You've now disassembled your eReader enough to transfer the internals to your new screen.
During reassembly:
Align the front cover over the screen and press down around the perimeter until the clips snap back into place.
Follow this guide to update the VCOM number on your eReader to match the replacement screen.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Remember: after repairs, your eReader is no longer IPX8 waterproof.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

Make sure each of your device's main functions still work, e.g., LED backlight, touch, Wi-Fi, etc.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers Community for help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

151892 Reputation

Kobo Clara BW Screen Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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