Kenmore Oven Resoldering or Replacing a Relay (T9AV5L12-12) Repair

Written By: patricelaroche
  • Comments: 48
Kenmore Oven Resoldering or Replacing a Relay (T9AV5L12-12) Repair

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

2

Time Required

No estimate

Introduction

This guide applies to other oven/range in the 970-XXXXXX (e.g. 970-687633) series.

My oven was not heating up, only the convection element worked (it's on 120VAC).

No 240VAC was present at either the bake or broil element. All elements tested good at 14-25 ohms.

This simple guide will point you to the faulty joint and/or relay, a 5$ part, that will fix your oven.

Be careful and always unplug the oven from the wall outlet when working on it.

I didn't plan on making this guide prior to fixing the oven so don't hesitate to ask questions if needed.

  1. OUYOnnXDVswOlDt6

    • This won't show you how to diagnose or open the back of your oven, you need enough skill to get here.

    • Remove the PWR board by removing the clips. Be careful, you have to pull out "locking" clips with pliers before you can press in the other locking clips. Once you see them you'll figure it out quickly.

    • If necessary, you can remove the whole clock assembly by unscrewing the 4 screws.

    I have similar problem but the R1 has blown apart and I can’t find out the value , I have tried to enlarge your photo bur to no avail can you help .

    James -

    James,

    We have the same problem, did you ever find the value?

    Dennis Ramlow -

    same here….what is R1?

    Keshka Kotera -

    R1 is 220 ohms

    chinese -

    If R1 is blown , you must replace the relay or it will eventually blow again.

    chinese -

  2. 6mNCrUvFD1yBWrri

    • Inspect the back of the board. The relay you need to check is the big black one, circled in yellow in Step 1, the T9AV5L12-12.

    • If there is a melted solder joint on one contact, and you can hear the relay clicking when you set the oven in BAKE or BROIL mode, this might be the only issue. Resolder the join.

    • If the relay needs to be changed, desolder and solder the new one in.

    • Reassemble and test the oven.

    The issue is with the relay's load contacts. Resoldering that pin will just buy a little time. The relay must be replaced for a longer term repair.

    bgregg55 -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

patricelaroche

Member since: 21/01/16

441 Reputation

42 comments

Do they have fuses?

STEEL63 THRUN -

OK so lets say that I am new to replacing a relay on a board. I get the concept but have never done it.

Is this something that can be done somewhat easily? or do i risk damaging the rest of the board?

I would appreciate if you have time to respond.

Also what was your problem with the stove initially?

BJ Magone -

My oven was not heating up, only the convection element worked (it's on 120VAC).

No 240VAC was present at either the bake or broil element. All elements tested good at 14-25 ohms.

It’s easy to replace the relay, just some good soldering work and nothing else can be damaged. Also the relay solder points are large, you wouldn’t need any magnifying equipement that you would need for smaller work.

patricelaroche -

Patrice, thanks very much for your article. I just fixed my oven control board, and I’d like to add a couple of points for other people who find this page.

(1) On my stove only two of the white connectors were locking. The others just needed wiggling out.

(2) The spade lug feeding L1 was a major pain to get off. The socket is of the locking kind, and in the end I had to open up the top halves of the socket to pull the supply wire away from the board. That was the hardest part of the job (for me today).

(3) I also had one melted joint. I replaced the relay (since I had it now anyway) but I tested the old relay after taking it out and it checks out OK.

I suspect had I just re-soldered the melted connection it would have been fine. (The melted connection is the common 220V leg of the relay, and given how small the 220V pins are, I am guessing that there is too much current through too small a pin and the solder just melts away eventually. A bad part choice by the control board designer, IMHO.)

Jim -

Thanks Jim (And Patrice).

My oven was not heating up too.

I’ve just repaired the melted connection at the common 220V leg of the relay (without changing relay or any part) and the oven is now working as before. Took one hour and a half. I’ll try to upload a photo of the melted leg Ito show what it’s like.

simplex007 -

will this solve a run away oven??????

Colton J Loberg -

I doubt it but i would still go through and pull the mainboard out, look on the backside and if you’re lucky it could be an obvious solder joint and/or relay that has failed.

patricelaroche -

Patrice and Jim,

Thanks so much for your help. I had this same problem and went back and forth from the computer to the oven testing all the elements and wiring. I ruled out the broil element and the wiring seemed fine so I was honing in on the EOC. I didn’t want to pay $200 for the EOC if there was just a bad relay so a google search with the word “relay” in it got me to this page. I removed the EOC from the range and with help from you guys was able to locate the melted solder joint. We (my son and I) re-soldered the pin and the oven is now working normally. We are beginners at soldering so I wouldn’t be surprised it if doesn’t last super long. At that point we’ll hopefully have a soldering wick and some more experience to clean up the joints a little better.

All that to say, thank you so much for this post and comments. We thanks God for people like you and our ability to find solutions and fix things that save us hundreds of dollars and give us the satisfaction of fixing things “on our own”.

In Him,

Adam

Adam Ripka -

Same thing here. Bad solder joint. You don't even really need to pull any wires. I just popped the relay board off and resoldered it in place. Took about 5 minutes. As long as you have it off you might want to touch up the other contacts on the relay as well.

Thanks for the help. Great guide!

raroberts73 -

Ours has the same problem, but the R1 resistor also burnt. Can anyone tell me the color band code or the value for this resistor? Mine is not determinable anymore.

Thanks,

D.R.

Dennis Ramlow -

For a run away oven, get a wiring diagram. For my oven I see a thermal-circuit-breaker in series with a temperature probe going to the control board. So if my oven stayed on all the time it sounds like the the breaker/probe is broken (shorted?), or control-board is fried, or relay on control board is stuck closed. In any case that is a dangerous situation.

As to the original post, I had same exact issue: the solder to one of the small relay pins had melted away, which led to an arc which vaporized the pad on the pcb, and some traces. I carefully laid down a 18-guage stranded copper wire and soldered to the relay post and the traces area. Seems to work for now. There were multiple lines of traces covering the entire footprint of the relay, I am guessing intended to lower resistance and dissipate heat. I agree with conclusion of op that there seems to be a design defect where the pin of the relay can overheat and degrade the connection, which causes more heat, and more degradation until catastrophic failure.

Van Nilla -

Thanks for this. My fridgedaire stove (paid 1750 cdn$ in 2008, absolutely trouble free till now) developed oven issues a few days ago. Was Just getting weak heat (from the convection element), nothing from the broiler or bottom element.

Took it apart, hardest part was separating the two boards, found a single failed solder joint on the T9AV5L12-12.

As the relay could be heard to click previously during test I decided to retain it and just fix the bad solder point. This was done, and low and behold oven again works like new. Yay!

I was unable to fix the solder myself, my solder irons not strong enough, took board to my local iFixit store in Kanata and they did a beautiful repair. Worth the 35$ to avoid oven conking out on Christmas day with a 50$ roast or turkey at stake.

Cheers.

cameron_lawson -

Exact same problem with my sister's board - clearly an engineering design flaw. I can imagine how many people just toss these things out. They want $200+ for replacement boards which may or may not be updated. Anyone interested in a class action suit?

spark_d69 -

This transformer controls the L1 of the BAKE / BROIL ELEMENTS feed for safety. Replace R1 with a 1/4 watt 220 ohm resistor and the relay T9AV5L12-12 with an OMRON G8P-1C4P-DC12-RELAY DC 12V 1P2T 10A 5P PCMT 10A(NC)20A(NO)/250VAC/28VDC . It is an exact substitute. Only $ 4 canadian at https://shop.sayal.com/collections/relay... I also replaced the CAPCON (Crapcon) electrolytic capacitors with newer ones. (NOBBY)

chinese -

I replaced the R1 220 ohm resistor . My relay was latched and stuck on, blowing R1 every time I replaced it. Replaced relay with a OMRON G8P-1C4P-DC12-RELAY DC 12V 1P2T 10A 5P PCMT 10A(NC)20A(NO)/250VAC/28VDC $4 at https://shop.sayal.com/collections/relay... This will fix a runaway oven.

chinese -

This was very helpful. Fixed my oven with the same issue, and as pointed out by Jim, my relay was actually fine, I just needed to re solder the pin.

nealfoord -

Got mine fixed, too. Didn’t even need the relay — it was a burned out solder joint, I didn’t even need to replace the relay.

Artem Belevich -

Hello, I had the same issue with my oven, it stopped to work, after investigating following your instruction, I found out that the relay was not melted anymore on one leg. I just re soldered it and it’s back to work! The main difficulty for me was to de assemble the power board, I had to fight with the 2 locking connectors for a while before understanding how it works. Finally, the repair cost me 30$ because I had to purchase the soldering kit. Thanks a lot!!!

stephbrahim -

A resistor burned up on this board,it looks like it was in series with the relay”T9AV5L12-12.” It is located at the bottom of the board,beside the relay,and directly above the “X” in the word Electrolux.The resistor completely vaporized so nothing left to identify.

I cannot make out the colors of the resistor on your image to determine value.

I am an experienced Electronics tech,so soldering is no problem.

I am guessing 210 ohms,but I am not sure.If you can tell me the colors or value it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your valuable time and efforts on this matter and I appreciate you putting this info on line to help people.

HiTekTek -

I have a no heat issue, my R1 resister was burnt so I replaced it. It is 221 ohms. it blew again. I replace it again along with the K1 relay (T9AV5L12-12). This time the resister did not burn up, but I still had no heat. I then replaced the K3 relay (OZ-SS-12LM1F) and still no luck. I have bench tested the RTD (thermocouple) and both the bake and broil elements, the reset button and they all tested good. Nothing else looks obviously distressed on the board. I’m at a loss and am struggling to even find a availability for a replacement Kenmore Elite Control board PN: 316462811. Any more ideas what I should be looking for?

Ray O -

Glad I found this. I have the exact same issue. Found an open solder joint on the relay. R1 was intact.

I resoldered the bad lead and the oven is back in operation.

New control board was $255 on Amazon. Service call would have been even worse.

c haisley -

The element light comes on but the surface light isn't coming on and the top burners aren't getting hot nor is the oven element light coming on can someone point me in the direction to find the problem please and thank you.

Rhonda Deshazier -

Resoldering the relay pin fixed the problem for 10 weeks. Then we had a runaway oven problem…dangerous. R1 was burned out this time.

I replaced the relay and R1 and it's working fine again.

c haisley -

My oven was not heating up at all. I spent time checking things like the heating elements and temp. probe and all that with my multimeter. Found the issue to be coming from the relay/power board. There was no voltage going to the heating elements when the relay is activated when turning on the oven. I took the board out and looked on the opposite side of the black relays and sure enough, one of the soldering pads to relay terminal burnt up and was no longer making a connection to the relay. I soldered the relay terminal back onto the pad and that fixed it. This guide helped me out a bit to diagnose what the issue was. Thanks all.

Han Brolo773 -

Patricelaroche, My SS relay had de-soldered pin. Two suggestions, the P5 single black spade terminal is the difficult terminal to remove. Google how to remove a locking spade terminal from a circuit board, a video comes up, I inserted from the underside of the terminal a short piece of small nail to push out the locking tab then just pull terminal off. Sounds easier than it is. Second, to separate the relay board, the inner locking piece that secures the locking tabs in place is a plastic piece that looks like an inverted tuning fork. Grab the two center forks , squeeze together and pull up using a mini set of needle nose pliers. The inverted tuning fork pulls right out,Other than those two points it a fairly easy repair ( note, I just re-soldered the pin and my control board is now working), I did purchase a new SS relay just in case though, ~$7 plus shipping. Good luck to everyone who sees this post and the comments down the line.

Russell Berman -

This was it! Thank you so much for the advice-after hours of trying to figure it out (elements were receiving 120vac so thought there should be some reaction) I pulled the board and saw slight scorch mark on the relay-replaced and it works!

Jason -

Hi

What causes my wall oven to shut off completely after it reach the temperature and it restart again in

Qandeel Family -

Thank you Patrice! I was trying to troubleshoot my oven not heating up exactly as it seems yours was doing. I was in the process of looking for a replacement board when I stumbled across this guide. I had partial voltage at each of my elements (~108VAC) and assumed everything was OK with the relay. I checked the back of the power board and the common leg of the relay had almost completely desoldered itself due to excessive heating from current. I reflowed the original relay / joint with some fresh solder and it works good as new!

Thanks again for your guidance and happy fixing!

Clark

Clark Oake -

Question: I guess the melted solder joint you found was making an open circuit (that was feeding power for the Bake and Broil elements)? I found opened solder fillet on my non functional board. What if I just soldered the joint to fix it? I am wondering if I do that what ever caused the solder joint to open circuit would just happen again or maybe a worse short causing more damage later (I think this very unlikely).

I guess the problem could be as simple as a defective solder joint fillet getting resistive and heating up and melting open circuit. May be a design defect in the board layout? Ohh I remember I had to replace the Broil heating element when it died (bright sparks plasma and then burned open) Could that have caused a large current to go thru that solder joint, just melting it just enough to make it walking wounded?

Doug -

Thanks so much for posting this! This was exactly my problem too. Like others, I didn’t even have to replace the relay - just added a drop of new solder and am good to go. Much gratitude!

Jonathon -

Bonjour, merci pour les infos! Grace a vous j'ai pu reparer mon four Frigidaire gallery. J'ai le même control board que vous . Je n'ai même pas eu a changer le relay T9AV5L12-12. La seule réparation que j'ai eu a faire c'est de refaire la soudure sur une des pin du relay. La soudure de cette pin avait fondu!!!! Ça m'a couter 0$! Tout ce que vous avez de besoin c'est du fer a souder. J'avais le meme problème, mes 2 éléments ne fonctionnaient plus... juste le convect fonctionnait. Maintenant depuis la réparation de la soudure sur 1 pin du relay, tout fonctionne a 100%. C'est aussi tres facile a voir car la soudure avait complètement fondu sur 1 pin du relay noir T9AV5L12-12.

Mart -

Just wanted to say that it worked perfectly! My Kenmore oven had the same symptoms: it did not heat and both elements tested with good resistances. Taking the board off was easy, desoldering the relay was a little tricky but having some solder flux greatly helped the process. Thanks for the guide, it really helped and now the oven works perfect! One less appliance in the trash yards, I would not have been able to repair it without your help.

K Leduc -

My broil and bake both stopped working at the same time. The paper that came with stove said EOC relays is probably causing both. I'm a widow but need to know what it is and where it goes to fix top and bottom of my oven. Any easy way to help explain how to do this and where to get the part the cheapest. Any help at all will be appreciated greatly

backwoodsbarbi -

Thanks for the help. I didn't know how to remove the locks in the locking clips. But once removed, the problem was obvious. The solder joint had melted. Just had to solder the pin on the relay and we were back to baking in no time.

KEVIN GOOD -

Resoldered the one spot and success ! thank you Supper maddening all the people so called appliance experts telling you to replace the total board .THANKS AGAIN

Gruff -

Just did the same thing on a Frigidaire FGIF3061NFC induction range - worked like a charm. As mentioned by a few other folks, looked like the common 220 lead on the relay had become unsoldered and I suspect that just re-soldering it without replacing the relay would have worked fine (I already had a new relay in hand so I just changed it and didn't bother testing the old one). Probably lots of electrolux-manufactured appliances have the same control board/relay - my control board looks identical to the one in the photo.

hospadar -

Some notes on replacement/repair: I ordered the part from mouser, digikey and newark both also listed the part but it was only in stock at mouser at the time I ordered. I saw some on ebay as well - but they shipped direct from china and I didn't want to wait that long. Looks like some appliance repair sites may have the relay as well. I removed the old relay with a soldering iron and desoldering wick (probably need to order this online - it's a copper wick that is treated with flux and absorbs solder when pressed against a solder joint with a hot soldering iron). New relay was soldered on with flux-core lead-free electronics solder (most hardware stores will have this).

I completely removed the board from the oven to do the repair, although it seems like you could fairly easily do the repair with all the wires still attached (you'll still need to remove the locking clips and pull the board out from where it's mounted so you can get at the back side) - just seemed like it'd be more awkward to do it without r

hospadar -

Thank you everyone for posting this information!

My Kenmore 970-6876 series range had the exact same issue. After reading other people's comment, I did not change the relay and did not even disconnect the wires. I simply detached the PWR board, flipped it over and re-soldered the melted connection on the spot. I can now measure a tension of 240V AC on the bake and broil elements and everything is working fine.

I may update the guide above for other people because fixing this isssue can be even simplier that what is suggested in some cases.

cookie_man -

Thank you for the guide. Was able to repair parents oven just before thanksgiving.

Gark marner -

Thanks for the "obvious" locking pins tip. I was about to bust that connector and then before I did I figured I'd search up solutions. You've saved me some additional tinkering.

Dmitri L -

Thank you Patrice,

Years go by, appliances break down and your post keeps helping :-)

I noticed the same situation on the board from my stove and the symptoms were also the same. Neither baking nor broiling elements were heating up. Resistance was OK, temp sensor was OK, but only some 35 V on between the connectors for each heating element instead of 240V.

I opted to just solder the leg of the relay which was missing the solder and tas a bit burned. Dome in 30 min :-) I could not believe it.

Let’s see how long it’ll last now. The stowe is 8y old already.

Andre J. -

This was exactly my problem! I was seeing 240v on the rear of the control board because there was still a tiny bit of contact, but no heating in the oven, all the elements tested fine, temp sensor was fine so I was confused till i pulled it off.
Resoldered the relay connection and under a minute later my oven was working again.

forcanada -