Jura ENA micro 9 water tank gasket replacement

Written By: VauWeh

Comments: 19

Jura ENA micro 9 water tank gasket replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

No estimate

Introduction

The water tank and the coffee machine are sealed against each other with two gaskets. One (an O-Ring) is located in the water tank and ensures that no water leaks out when the tank is removed for filling. If it leaks, water will drip out during filling. It may be a little uncomfortable, but is not particularly bad. Replacing it is a bit tricky, but almost self-explanatory. The other gasket surrounds the water connection in the device. When it leaks, water drips out constantly, there are lime marks or even small puddles under the device. To replace it, you need to know the trick, this is shown here.

Tools

Parts

Innenverteilmanschette - Water Tank Seal

Step 1

Pull out the power plug!
Remove all attachments, such as the water reservoir, coffee grounds drawer, and bean compartment lid.
Remove all coffee beans.

Step 2

The top covers do not necessarily have to be removed for all repairs. However, it is indispensable for thorough cleaning. It may be easier to loosen the top covers if the side panels are removed first. The process is somewhat tricky.
Pry the central ventilation cover up.

This step isn't necessary if you only need to access the brew group

Alistair Urie -

Step 3

Use the spudger to press in on both sides of the marked area. Then the front cover around the on / off switch is unlocked. You can then lift it up at the front and pull it out at an angle.
If the side openings for the spudger cannot be found, the model is slightly different. With this version you have to insert the spudger into the gap between the front panel and cover, about 3 cm from the edge and then push it firmly towards the center to unlock. At the same time, lift the cover a little at the front.

Dieser Arbeitsschritt ist völlig falsch beschrieben und führt zur Beschädigung des Geräts!!

askupien - 21/12/20

Diese Kritik allein ist nicht hilfreich. Wäre doch schön, wenn der Schritt noch besser beschrieben würde. Jeder kann/darf das! Das Gerät wurde jedenfalls ohne große Mühe und ohne jede Beschädigung genau so geöffnet…

VauWeh - 12/01/21

Es gibt zwei Generationen. Diese hier ist die erste Generation.

Bei der zweiten Generation muss die Verriegelung statt von der Seite von oben entriegelt werden. Von Oben senkrecht am Rand in den Schlitz mit einem flachen Werkzeug hineindrücken und zur Mitte schieben. Ca. 3cm vom Rand entfernt.

Christoph Weber - 26/03/21

Hab's zufällig unmittelbar vorher beschrieben. Danke!

VauWeh - 26/03/21

This step isn't necessary if you only want to access the brew group

Alistair Urie -

Step 4

Flip up the front cover.
Remove the cover. In the model with the side holes, you can pull them out at an angle to the front. With the other model, you have to push it back a little to unhook it, then lift it up.

This step isn't necessary if you only want to access the brew group

Alistair Urie -

If you decide to do this optional step for additional cleaning, be careful that the trim piece may easily crack and splinter, especially if it is old. Don't use a metal screwdriver tip, in any case.

Henry Taylor -

Step 5

This is what it looks like when the two lids are gone. A lot of dirt built up.

Step 6

The side parts are pushed out to the rear. However, they are secured with two screws and a lock at the top and a wedge-shaped catch on the sides.
Unscrew the two T15 Torx screws that secure the side panels at the top.

Only take out the right hand screw if you only want to access the brew group

Alistair Urie -

Step 7

The lock is located under the Jura badge on the back. Turn it counterclockwise about 20 degrees, then you can remove it.
Unfortunately, this one is very stuck. Nothing helped with this device, no suction cup or stiff adhesive tape. Here it is opened with a somewhat more rustic method:
Two small holes were drilled a few millimeters deep, then two small screws were screwed in. The badge could finally be turned and removed with a pair of pliers.

I used two pieces of electrical tape, placed one at 12 o’clock and the other at 6 o’clock facing opposite directions, pressed and pulled on them and that made the badge twist. The glue on the tape gave me the extra grip I needed, no need to drill .

Christopher Suggs -

Exactly! Electrical tape works very well

Alistair Urie -

Step 8

This is what it looks like underneath. The lock is secured with an oval head screw. It looks like a rivet. To open you need a special oval head bit, in an emergency you can use pliers.
Remove the oval head screw.
Push the lock firmly upwards as far as possible.

I use a piece of metal tubing squashed a bit to make an oval

Alistair Urie -

Step 9

The side parts are held at the top and bottom with three hooks each. Therefore, they have to be moved backwards to detach them. However, they are secured against shifting with wedge-shaped notches at the front. The next step shows how they can be solved.
The notches must be lifted out of the openings. They are located on both sides at the top and bottom about 1.5 cm from the edge and 7 cm from the front edge.
This is what the wedge-shaped notches look like

Wenn man nicht erklärt dass die Seitenteile an sechs stellen mit einer Nase in einer Führung stecken, kann man die Seitenteile danach wegwerfen.

askupien - 21/12/20

I trimmed down the inner retaining clips ("hooks", shown here) to make it easier to get the sides off in the future.

Henry Taylor -

Step 10

Lay the machine on its side.
Pry the side panel about 7 cm from the front edge, about 3 mm high. This will cause the catch to come out of its opening. Use a strong tool, preferably one made of plastic.
Position of the wedge-shaped notch: 7 cm from the front edge, 1.5 cm from the top or bottom edge.
Leave the tool in place. Insert an opening pick 7 cm from the front edge so that the wedge-shaped notch can no longer engage in its opening. Pull out the tool.
In the same way, insert another opening pick on the opposite edge.
Now both notches are free and the side part can be moved in the next step.

Step 11

Push the side panel firmly backwards. It may get stuck a bit and you need to use a plastic pry tool to help.
Take off the side panel and set it aside.
Repeat for the other side panel.

I use a wooden block and mullet hammer to give it a slight tap

Alistair Urie -

Step 12

Release the catches on the top of the inner cover.
Flip the inner cover down and lift it out. The brew group becomes now visible.
The cover is not present on all models.
The third picture shows a view of the other side.

Bei meiner Jura ENA micro 9 gibt es diese schwarze Platte nicht

Ralph Ries -

My ENA Micro 90 does not have the inner cover.

gregestep -

Step 13

The first picture shows the already removed holder and the seal. The next steps will show you how to get it out.
The pump must be partially removed to get to the holder. Luckily this is quite simple.

Step 14

Remove the three Torx T15 screws that secure the electronics box.
Lift the box a little to the side so that the pump can be removed. The connection cables can all remain connected.
Pull out the metal clamp at the upper pump outlet.
Pull out the diaphragm damper above the pump, the hose can remain connected. Pay attention to the gasket, it is best to replace it.

Step 15

Lift out the pump, the elastic suspension of the pump slides along in the rail.
Put the pump to the side, the cables and the lower hose can remain connected.

Step 16

Now you can clearly see how the silicone hose leads to the holder for the seal of the water connection. The holder must be turned about 45 degrees, then it can be taken out downwards. The rear end of the holder is secured by a detent and must be turned towards you.
Push the detent away a little and twist the holder.
Push the detent away a little and twist the holder.

Step 17

Now the seal can be easily replaced. Grease it with some food-safe silicone grease.

Bei dieser Dichtung ist immer die Gefahr, dass sie zwar innen zum Wassertankstutzen noch abdichtet, außen zum Dichtungshalter aber nicht. Meiner Erfahrung nach hilft hier ein O-Ring, der außen um die Dichtung passt (~ 22 x 2.5mm). Dann geht der Halter zwar etwas streng wieder zurück hinein (Silikonfett!!!), aber bei Undichtheit kann es so nie wieder auf den 230V-Netzfilter im Inneren tropfen.

Achtung: Wann immer man eine zusätzliche Dichtung oben am Dichtungshalter einbaut, so muss man auch das transparente Sieb innen um den gleichen Abstand anheben. Sonst öffnet die Lasche des Siebs das Ventil im Wassertank nicht mehr ausreichend (Fehler: Maschine fordert ständig zum Entlüften auf). Passend zum oben erwähnten O-Ring kann man einen zweiten O-Ring mit selber Stärke (z.B. 13 x 2.5mm) unter dem Sieb einbauen. (Dieser zweite O-Ring dient nur als Abstandhalter. Ein Einfetten ist also nicht nötig.)

der schiefe Turm -

Thanks so much. I have a Jura A9, and these instructions apply for my machine as well. I could not think how to get access to the water tank seal, but when it is explained so well it became easy. Excellent photographs and guide.

Richard Jarrold -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

VauWeh

Member since: 19/10/15

234462 Reputation

Jura ENA micro 9 water tank gasket replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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