Introduction

The HTC Vive's lenses can become scratched, cracked, or dirty with use. This guide will show you how to replace one or both of the HTC Vive lenses.

  1. gOZRXXnFSAxciLOj
    gOZRXXnFSAxciLOj
    ehWAxBhXxFwvwPBx
    • Be sure to power down and disconnect your Vive before beginning.

    • Pull the hook-and-loop (Velcro) closure at the top of the head strap apart to release the top of the head strap.

  2. NWq2qNAcslhLt2JZ
    NWq2qNAcslhLt2JZ
    YNqy2jv2BPnSS5Gu
    • Slide the top part of the head strap through its metal loop on the headset to remove it.

  3. NkFBUCx5lIWEkeCr
    NkFBUCx5lIWEkeCr
    FgHeRRVPMMtecNOO
    kh6NfJFS113bcUbT
    • Pull the hook-and-loop closure at the right side of the head strap apart to release the right side of the head strap.

    • Slide the right side of the head strap through its metal loop to remove it.

  4. SdUhblveZcbOFT5P
    SdUhblveZcbOFT5P
    jwaxn3IwDwZeZTDL
    aMAcMVKPqCL1ff3u
    • Pull the hook-and-loop closure at the left side of the head strap apart to release the left side of the head strap.

    • Slide the left side of the head strap through its metal loop to remove it.

  5. yApgaBuODfVJdSAR
    yApgaBuODfVJdSAR
    RQUSmOL2uVSReIH2
    2tpD1TVKPdMVtfWs
    • Slide the head strap along the cable, away from the Vive.

    • When the head strap comes to the end of the cable, gently slide it over the plugs and remove it.

  6. BnJi1xXNRGE31Gyj
    BnJi1xXNRGE31Gyj
    lhTnFxDVNdBQpFhX
    • Be sure to power down and disconnect your Vive before beginning.

    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the two 12 mm-long screws securing the head strap mounts on either side of the headset.

    • For some devices, a T6 Torx driver may work better.

    • The mounts may fall off when the screws are removed, so be careful not to lose any parts.

    Helaas blijkt de T5 Torx schroevendraaier aan de schroeven van de bevestigingsbeugels geen grip te krijgen. Wat dan gedaan?

    Immanuel Van Meirhaeghe -

    It was a T6 that fit perfectly in mine, T5 didn't cut it. Maybe it's a revision thing? Mine was an early model from 2016.
    Edit: Edited guide to say T6.

    Tim T -

  7. mhOs4TUVMmULO3XO
    mhOs4TUVMmULO3XO
    OrRu3vDxmukFM2lC
    xQSFsQmFcU5vWWse
    • Remove both head strap mounts.

  8. NC4jUIipKsyolALl
    NC4jUIipKsyolALl
    WOTIAcLP53Oy2saF
    • Slide the facerest straight away from the headset to remove it.

  9. PrIiscYeTMMfERop
    PrIiscYeTMMfERop
    cxXTdT2nOBehWAHo
    ObWAuChvfCbJMpjG
    • Use tweezers to remove the small stickers over the four screws securing the outer shell.

    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.4 mm-long screws securing the outer shell.

    PSA: There are four screws you need to remove that are covered with small black stickers (two on top, two on bottom)

    Oscar Kosar-Kosarewicz -

    Holy cow. Thank you for adding this comment Oscar. I was just about to break it.

    PC McGee -

    These screws are T6.

    Eric Tong -

  10. b2Z1bMhG2rojxLub
    b2Z1bMhG2rojxLub
    KHORT5Wm1AMZfRHG
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the top edge of the right half of the outer shell, behind the component cover and near the seam in the center, until it is unclipped from the headset.

  11. cUM2HN4PwuGkIGTD
    cUM2HN4PwuGkIGTD
    HuLDMNGRTgKKZMjK
    • Grasp the right half the outer shell and pull it to the right and toward the front of the headset until you feel the clips on the front of the cover release.

    • If the shell is difficult to remove, try prying along the seam with the flat end of a spudger to release the clips.

  12. ACRSkXXwUXfMBEf4
    ACRSkXXwUXfMBEf4
    uaDKRXEvNvYXuw1q
    • Slide the right side of the outer shell to the right and off of the headset.

  13. IpwmfDeFCVqK33GC
    IpwmfDeFCVqK33GC
    f5JMKqvxtUoi1cTh
    • Repeat the last three steps for the left side of the outer shell and remove it.

  14. SJ2ZIfcIQsAnsdtj
    SJ2ZIfcIQsAnsdtj
    lYAGu6XGFcHCxALH
    uoFUWLpBDNEjokNB
    • Use tweezers to remove the clear tape over all four of the sensor array cable connectors.

    During this step, there should be a picture of the flip side showing 4 more Philips screws hidden deep inside the headset. Removing those additional 4 screws is critical to getting the headset opened and continuing to the next step.

    Jeff -

  15. xQXYYfgOyBFQHghF
    xQXYYfgOyBFQHghF
    fTiN4DaGGZrbehu6
    Lf1Do1CDKVYu2bNm
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on one of the sensor array ZIF connectors.

    • Slide the cable straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    This guide is grossly incomplete. Do NOT try to pull up the sensor array after taking these five screws off. There are 8 more screws that have to be removed, as well as 2 tabs that need to be pushed before the sensor array comes off.

    -Two screws on the bottom (by the camera) to each side. There are four screws here, but only the outermost two need to be taken off. See the two sensors on the bottom? The screws under the outside corner of each sensor are the ones you remove.

    -Two screws on the top, to the right and left of the cable opening.

    -Four screws on the back, to the left and right of the lenses. Turn the Vive around, the screws are deep inside four holes.

    -Finally, two tabs on the bottom by the camera. If you look closely you will see them!

    Dan OST -

  16. WTsiktcbQ4jXjLag
    WTsiktcbQ4jXjLag
    RTFIqVpPSrRZlnZF
    JRXCTeEd4kT4xXAu
    • Repeat the previous step for the remaining three sensor array cables to disconnect the remaining cables.

    Sure, but how do you get a replacement array?

    TheGreatYogurt -

    It starts with “lift the sensor array" but how am I supposed to do that? Its not just lifting off after unscrewing & disconnecting. What am I missing here?

    Daniel Connelly -

  17. m2XApxMSRWaf4MRf
    m2XApxMSRWaf4MRf
    iHKnHTEWyuSUEvOK
    • Use tweezers or a spudger to pry up the camera cable cover and remove it.

  18. gnnQ2ZPnROhK5Tlw
    gnnQ2ZPnROhK5Tlw
    bQdRZVEuNarDSa3u
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the camera cable connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.

  19. CgZFhUVGaIjMiSaf
    • Use a PH000 driver to remove the five 3.9 mm screws securing the sensor array.

  20. BlGYbZInrqjjrH1N
    • Use a PH000 driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the sensor array.

    On my 2016 headset, I had to remove two additional Phillips screws at the top (appear in picture) and two more at the bottom (which are not present in the headset pictured here, must be a different revision) before the sensor array comes off.

    Tim T -

  21. qNsefWLxHFYNrmSH
    qNsefWLxHFYNrmSH
    Hf2PQOiRwJBpWRMi
    • Use a PH000 driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the sensor array.

    • You'll need a narrow, long-shaft driver to reach these screws.

  22. KwPyBAy5LbSMEqQy
    KwPyBAy5LbSMEqQy
    CE1bNeNpav4VGYwp
    • Lift the sensor array away from the headset to remove it.

  23. nd4hdV5YUCheCemU
    nd4hdV5YUCheCemU
    1yZiedHEJesyhXAf
    kjU4HqoFNBEgKOKW
    • Remove the tape covering the interconnect cable socket.

    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the cable socket.

    • Slide the interconnect cable straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

  24. AiQ1lNG4iQxCgKhn
    AiQ1lNG4iQxCgKhn
    iMSBHQlCtxYHfGDd
    dkUvJkoZBOTFsDm2
    • Remove the tape covering the left OLED cable socket.

    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the cable socket.

    • Slide the left OLED cable straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

  25. xqecrTh2lu4g2vKu
    xqecrTh2lu4g2vKu
    nUNLXxODQuYJA3kj
    4OsblBKFNSPmYmWX
    • Remove the tape covering the right OLED cable socket.

    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the cable socket.

    • Slide the right OLED cable straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

  26. HtTVLbAnNgjLqTYt
    HtTVLbAnNgjLqTYt
    uYvokM6aZ5TEyMBE
    • Use a pair tweezers to slightly twist the interconnect cable and press it down until the tabs on either side of the cable clear the hole in the motherboard.

    • During reassembly, make sure to thread the interconnect cable through its slot in the motherboard.

  27. 4JKIUcraBXdVoTi4
    4JKIUcraBXdVoTi4
    yNWahihycT6txLUI
    PPN32XcDyFqk5Gns
    • Press the non-port-end of the motherboard toward the top of headset while hinging it away from the midframe to free it from the clips securing that end.

    • Slide the motherboard toward the bottom of the headset, over the clips, to remove it.

    • Take care not to snag any cables during removal.

  28. BCPkcRMVNJSfLmCu
    BCPkcRMVNJSfLmCu
    MEjvBHFEkmmNBBFe
    acRMemANZZrsV65i
    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the plastic covering the eyepiece midframe cable socket.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the plastic locking flap on the socket.

    • Slide the cable straight out of its socket to remove it.

  29. cj1ZGWLOE3jxjqnm
    cj1ZGWLOE3jxjqnm
    FD4QkHU3EGLGwSp2
    • Gently peel the eyepiece midframe cable off of the facerest midframe.

  30. RHJqAioUgJkY3kZc
    • Use a PH000 driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the facerest midframe.

  31. soWw5ByD4twIM56L
    soWw5ByD4twIM56L
    4MQvetJ6JCJTYZIq
    • Lift the facerest midframe off of the eyepiece midframe.

    • Take care not to snag any cables during removal.

  32. dabVWRoQ5ju5xOVd
    dabVWRoQ5ju5xOVd
    J4A5PGQVp2S5GLgC
    THNTYLaGpwcTgHWO
    • Gently lift the eyepiece gasket off of the lens and OLED frames to remove it.

  33. ZAKPE5xIK6IvyZp4
    ZAKPE5xIK6IvyZp4
    ItAIc4SpcClnVR33
    knIXErPWGciQif4e
    • Pull the rubber bumpers off of either end of the support rod.

  34. MWlAdiEqNkPGVlnK
    MWlAdiEqNkPGVlnK
    ckl3RTI56VtshoZ3
    MRxYJkNqyfC1fvh4
    • Slide the support rod out of its brackets on the lens and OLED frames.

  35. pMaIRPPTFBxSPxqH
    • Use a PH000 driver to remove the eight 3.1 mm screws securing the focus rod brackets.

  36. 4CGMDjKiuqrujG6p
    • Remove the focus rod and its brackets.

  37. KQphXcNODxZtAVgB
    • Use a PH000 driver to remove the eight 2.4 mm screws securing the OLED covers.

  38. ouE5UvZvd3pxBGy5
    ouE5UvZvd3pxBGy5
    MtwLQcK2XXtfK5to
    • Use the flat end of a spudger push up one edge of the OLED cover and start unclipping that edge.

  39. LCTpvoI6d4bBr4eL
    LCTpvoI6d4bBr4eL
    vZY6TiXD1s1tmpHf
    • Slide the spudger under the clip along that edge to free the rest of the edge.

  40. MxiUq6AiUCjeFrUL
    MxiUq6AiUCjeFrUL
    SVZLfMXesNfPDKmP
    OTYSDo3erwMSKDMb
    • Slide the spudger around the remaining edges of the OLED cover to unclip those edges.

  41. OCueJw3CIjlabAMc
    OCueJw3CIjlabAMc
    oSTKedTmPcQQlVPM
    • Remove the OLED cover.

    • Repeat the last three steps to remove the other OLED cover.

    • During reassembly, remember to thread the OLED cables through their slots in the OLED cover.

  42. C1QeORJYSIhxU6MS
    • Very carefully lift the OLED display by its edges out of its frame.

    • If you are reusing the OLED displays, be very careful to avoid touching the front of the displays or bending or cracking the displays.

    • Repeat this process for the other OLED display.

  43. MdBZ1KoaEQSM6kyp
    • Apply an iOpener to the lens to soften the adhesive securing it to the frame.

  44. Go1JKoETDXfGqsSO
    Go1JKoETDXfGqsSO
    svcBoKlvKYWDK3CJ
    • Use an opening tool to pry up the flat edge of the lens.

    • If it's difficult to pry up, apply the iOpener for another 30 seconds to further soften the adhesive.

  45. qRbGmUtUPLroaLXV
    • Remove the lens.

    • Repeat the last two steps to remove the other lens.

    • Only the lens and OLED frames remain.

    • During reassembly, make sure the convex side of the lens is facing away from the frame.

  46. OpLE3YNsca6Wg1mm
    • The screws are very close to the screen. Applying too much pressure to the screws can stress or crack the screen. Be careful when unscrewing and screwing around the screen.

    • Remove the four 2mm #00 Philips head screws holding the screen in place from the eyepiece assembly.

  47. LTUisKwfGKvNY2Xk
    LTUisKwfGKvNY2Xk
    aMluhuLnwftY3PXB
    DaDlKS6EJZgEIKrq
    • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry around the seam between the eyepiece housing and the screen.

    • Gently pull the screen cover away from the eyepiece housing, threading the ribbon cable through the hole.

  48. mBUi12a3XmcJ4VRw
    mBUi12a3XmcJ4VRw
    ElvoKoyGCjRkQjKI
    • Remove the screen from the eyepiece housing by pulling the two pieces away from each other.

  49. LseSRLYAp1IbBKFI
    LseSRLYAp1IbBKFI
    qO2ooKOsqNnlbvpP
    • Hold your hand in front of the lens and be ready to catch the lens during its removal.

    • From the inside of the black plastic housing, push gently around the edges of the lens to remove it.

    • Glue holds the lens in place; pushing around the edges will gradually loosen and break the bond. After breaking the bond, the lens will fall forward.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Caleb Watts

Member since: 25/09/17

2427 Reputation

9 comments

Or… you can simply use an exacto knife and pry the lenses out without taking the entire HMD apart!

You can insert a scalpel type knife between the lens and the housing and work your way around.

techy76 -

I’ve got to agree . This is the absolute worst way to do what’s essentially a simple operation. So many ways this could go wrong for the user if they’re not careful.

This reeks of click bait re-purposing of the tear-down coverage.

Ian Kennedy -

This has to be the most overly complicated approach for a VERY simple fix. Takes about 5 seconds to pop out the lenses by carefully prying at the flat edge with a butter knife, exacto knife, etc.

Brian Lovett -

Agreed! what rubbish…

Lionel Van Niekerk -

We are showing you the most technical and professional way to take out the lens. Remember this is just a guide. You can use whichever way you most comfortable to take apart your HTC.

Huy Duong -

I think the most professional way is the way that puts the device in the least risk. While this is an incredible teardown manual, you have the same risk at the end popping the lens out as you would performing the extraction externally using light heat, a thin pry tool, and some patience. Most pop out on the first try depending on the age of the unit/glue. Being that there is no risk to the damaged lenses you are replacing if that is the reason, there is no reason to put forth such an effort. There is nothing unprofessional about that except the labor charge if providing the service would be less to a customer, which if paid on time would make it not professionally feasible, so charge for the job. This feels like removing the engine from a car to change the oil.

DevDoc -

Does anybody knows where we could buy replacement lenses ?

Mine are getting quit used now and have a few scratches

Md Spycho -

You can replace them with Samsung Gear VR lenses (#SM-R323). There are several tutorials searching (vive lens mod) on youtube. This not only provides lenses to replace them but greatly improved clarity and reduced god rays. Only downside is the increased clarity can show more screen door effect, however it is well worth it. This is applicable to the Vive and Vive Pro by the way. I have a pro and it is fantastic with the new lenses in them. A side note is that they are precision glass lenses, and can be had on eBay for about $20-$30. I have a spare set as well.

DevDoc -

Soo… you took the screen out just to pop out the lense? Really?

Not only are you risking damaging the fragile ribbon cables, connectors, the lense adjusters and the screen itself, just to pop out the plastic lense?

Why even include a prying tool in your kits :)

Peter Jakob Andersen -