Introduction
It is suggested to attempt this guide with 2 or more people.
Required Tools
- T-9 Screwdriver
- Needle-Nose Pliers
Tools
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Pull down both front panels to open the printer. Lift the scanner flap upward by pulling down on it; there are two mouth pieces that need to be pulled down.
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Adjust the flap covering the scanner upward, as shown.
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Locate the three screws on top of the printer.
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The orange circle shows a fourth screw located behind the power panel. Ignore this one for now, as directions to remove this screw are in Step 5.
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Reach inside the printer's front opening.
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Press the small clip behind the power button.
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Pull the panel out from right to left.
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Have one person lift the hood 2-3 inches.
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Have the other person disconnect the three cables from the motherboard (the green PCB) to the hood by gently pulling upward on them.
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Remove the hood completely.
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With the screw removed, separate the two pieces of the hood by lifting it vertically.
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Carefully pull down the white ribbon cable through the top piece of the hood.
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Once the screw has been taken out, lift the glass covering from the bottom left corner as shown.
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The other corner of the glass can now be lifted up as well. Use the two corners to lift up the whole scanner glass.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
5 comments
Very helpful guide, the scanner glass was dirty from inside, so the guide was able to give me clear instructions how to proceed with the openning. Thanks!
Very helpful in most ways. I needed to clean the inside of the glass because the ribbon cable was leaving a discoloration when traveling and showed up on my scanned documents. I actually did this solo and was fine until reassemble faze when the actual scanner bar would not stay in place to reassemble the two parts. I finally got it back together after much profanity and no small amount of patients. The next dilemma was the reassembly of top to bottom which was easily fixed with a small piece of duct tape holding The right side in place while reconnecting the two ribbon cables and the power connector. All is back together and working fine. My thanx to my God and to you for a successful fix.
I found that it was actually a T10 bit on mine as well and found when removing the 3 screws shown in red a 2” bit works best but with the one marked in orange under the power button a 1” if placed in the screw first then pulled forward slightly I was able to use a 1/4” drive screwdriver on a slight angle which made it much faster to remove that one screw. That being said, still a very helpful fix to a problem that was really frustrating me as I kept cleaning the top of the glass until I realized the problem was on the underside.