Google Pixel 8 Pro Loudspeaker Replacement

Written By: Spencer Day

Comments: 3

Google Pixel 8 Pro Loudspeaker Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 1 hour

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to replace the loudspeaker in your Google Pixel 8 Pro.

You may need to replace the loudspeaker if it's making distorted sounds, crackling noises, or no sound at all.

You'll need replacement screen adhesive to complete this repair.

Note: This guide was made with the 5G mmWave antenna model of the Pixel 8 Pro. If you have the non-mmWave version, you can still use this guide—just skip the steps that mention the 5G mmWave antenna.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Let your Pixel's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Unplug all cables from your phone.
Completely power off your phone.
Press the power and volume up buttons at the same time to bring up the shutdown menu.

Step 2

You'll be using opening picks to separate the screen from the frame. If inserted too far, a pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Step 3

Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone has a cracked screen, follow these steps:
Apply overlapping strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until the whole screen is covered.
Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Step 4

Adhesive and clips secure the screen to the frame. Heating the screen softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

From my limited experience, iOpener is a really cool thing if nothing else is available, but if possible, hair dryer will do the job much, much better. Though, with iOpener is much harder to do something wrong...

Josip Rosandic -

Step 5

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place your phone screen side up on an object so it will rest level between the Anti-Clamp's arms—the bottom edge should be hanging off.
Slide the arms over the left edge of your phone, so you have access to the bottom edge.
Position the suction cups as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
Squeeze the cups together to create suction.

Step 6

Pull the handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise one full turn (360 degrees), or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and apply tape for the cups to stick to.

Step 7

Wait one minute for a gap to form between the screen and frame.
If the adhesive doesn't separate, twist the handle clockwise one quarter turn and wait another minute. Apply more heat if the screen cools down.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the arms and remove the Anti-Clamp using the pull tabs on the suction cups.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 8

Apply a suction handle to the center of the screen's bottom edge.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the screen and frame.
If you're having trouble creating a gap, apply more heat and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 10

To avoid damaging your phone, don't insert your pick more than 3 mm as you separate the screen adhesive. Note the following areas:
The screen cable is a little less than halfway up the left edge of the phone. Be very careful here to avoid tearing the cable.
There are many spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be very careful in these areas to avoid bending the contacts.

I'd like to point out that the glass might seperate from the frame. If this is your first time opening up this phone be aware that there is a plastic frame below the glass (unlike Samsung Fold Front Display glass only type) but it might not look like it. Be careful and go deeper then you might expect you need to. Deeper as in down, not horizontally.

Sigmund -

I broke off a spring contact. Should I solder it back on, or ignore it?

Tim Black -

Step 11

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive securing it.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 13

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's right edge.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom edge of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the bottom left corner.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 16

Insert a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the top left corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's left edge.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 17

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 18

Insert a fifth opening pick under the top edge of the screen, near the left corner.
Slide the opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's top edge.

Step 19

Place a small box or stack of books to the left of your phone so you can prop up the screen while disconnecting its cable.
Swing up the right edge of the screen like the front cover of a book.
If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.
Prop up the screen so you can access the screen cable without straining it.

Step 20

Use an opening tool to pry up the upper edge of the screen cable cover.
Remove the cover.

Step 21

Insert the point of a spudger under the top right corner of the screen's press connector.
Gently pry up and disconnect the cable.
Remove the screen.
To reconnect a press connector, align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 22

If you're installing a new screen with pre-installed adhesive, follow this step during reassembly. Otherwise, follow this guide to apply adhesive to your old screen.
Use the pull tabs to remove the liners covering the front camera cutout, the back of the screen, and the perimeter adhesive.
Reconnect the screen cable and reinstall its cover.
This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily power on your phone and make sure it works as expected. Power it down before continuing.
Firmly press the screen into place on the frame—you should feel the clips "pop" into place.
Press firmly around the perimeter of the screen to secure it with the new adhesive.
Optionally, you can strengthen the adhesive bond by applying pressure evenly to the phone.
Follow this guide to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.

Step 23

Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the plastic shim that runs along the top of the USB-C port cover.
Remove the shim and set it aside or move it out of the way so you can access the USB-C port cover screws.

Step 24

During reassembly, follow this step to replace the plastic shim that runs across the bottom of the midframe and loudspeaker. If you don't have a replacement, press the old one back into place.
Remove the larger rectangular liner from the shim.
Place the shim so the smaller piece of foam lines up with the bottom of the USB-C port cover.
Use the flat end of a spudger to firmly press down along the whole shim to secure it.
Remove the remaining liner.

Step 25

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
While the Pixel 8 Pro uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits will also work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the USB‑C port cover.
Remove the cover.

Step 26

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the loudspeaker.

Step 27

Insert the point of a spudger between the bottom right edge of the loudspeaker and frame.
Pry the loudspeaker up with the spudger to dislodge it from its recess.
Remove the loudspeaker.
During reassembly, insert the edge of the speaker with an orange gasket at a downward angle into its recess. Then press the speaker firmly into place.