Google Pixel 8 Pro Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Spencer Day

Comments: 6

Google Pixel 8 Pro Logic Board Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

2 - 3 hours

Introduction

This repair guide was authored by the iFixit staff and hasn’t been endorsed by Google. Learn more about our repair guides here.

Follow this guide to replace the logic board in your Google Pixel 8 Pro.

Replacing the logic board requires removing the battery, which is a difficult process. If the battery gets bent, creased, or damaged during removal, you'll need to replace it.

You'll need replacement screen adhesive to complete this repair.

Note: This guide was made with the 5G mmWave antenna model of the Pixel 8 Pro. If you have the non-mmWave version, you can still use this guide—just skip the steps that mention the 5G mmWave antenna.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Let your Pixel's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.
Unplug all cables from your phone.
Completely power off your phone.
Press the power and volume up buttons at the same time to bring up the shutdown menu.

Step 2

Firmly press a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the left edge of your phone until the tray ejects.
Remove the SIM card tray.

Step 3

You'll be using opening picks to separate the screen from the frame. If inserted too far, a pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Step 4

Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone has a cracked screen, follow these steps:
Apply overlapping strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until the whole screen is covered.
Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Step 5

Adhesive and clips secure the screen to the frame. Heating the screen softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

From my limited experience, iOpener is a really cool thing if nothing else is available, but if possible, hair dryer will do the job much, much better. Though, with iOpener is much harder to do something wrong...

Josip Rosandic -

Step 6

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Place your phone screen side up on an object so it will rest level between the Anti-Clamp's arms—the bottom edge should be hanging off.
Slide the arms over the left edge of your phone, so you have access to the bottom edge.
Position the suction cups as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
Squeeze the cups together to create suction.

Step 7

Pull the handle forward to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise one full turn (360 degrees), or until the suction cups begin to stretch.
As the cups stretch, make sure they stay aligned with each other. If they keep slipping, remove the Anti-Clamp and apply tape for the cups to stick to.

Step 8

Wait one minute for a gap to form between the screen and frame.
If the adhesive doesn't separate, twist the handle clockwise one quarter turn and wait another minute. Apply more heat if the screen cools down.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert your opening pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the arms and remove the Anti-Clamp using the pull tabs on the suction cups.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 9

Apply a suction handle to the center of the screen's bottom edge.

Step 10

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force until a gap forms between the screen and frame.
If you're having trouble creating a gap, apply more heat and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 11

To avoid damaging your phone, don't insert your pick more than 3 mm as you separate the screen adhesive. Note the following areas:
The screen cable is a little less than halfway up the left edge of the phone. Be very careful here to avoid tearing the cable.
There are many spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be very careful in these areas to avoid bending the contacts.

I'd like to point out that the glass might seperate from the frame. If this is your first time opening up this phone be aware that there is a plastic frame below the glass (unlike Samsung Fold Front Display glass only type) but it might not look like it. Be careful and go deeper then you might expect you need to. Deeper as in down, not horizontally.

Sigmund -

I broke off a spring contact. Should I solder it back on, or ignore it?

Tim Black -

Step 12

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive securing it.
Leave the pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 14

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's right edge.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom edge of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the bottom left corner.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 16

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 17

Insert a fourth opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the new pick to the top left corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's left edge.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 18

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as extreme heat can damage the screen and/or battery.

Step 19

Insert a fifth opening pick under the top edge of the screen, near the left corner.
Slide the opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive securing the screen's top edge.

Step 20

Place a small box or stack of books to the left of your phone so you can prop up the screen while disconnecting its cable.
Swing up the right edge of the screen like the front cover of a book.
If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.
Prop up the screen so you can access the screen cable without straining it.

Step 21

Use an opening tool to pry up the upper edge of the screen cable cover.
Remove the cover.

Step 22

Insert the point of a spudger under the top right corner of the screen's press connector.
Gently pry up and disconnect the cable.
Remove the screen.
To reconnect a press connector, align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 23

If you're installing a new screen with pre-installed adhesive, follow this step during reassembly. Otherwise, follow this guide to apply adhesive to your old screen.
Use the pull tabs to remove the liners covering the front camera cutout, the back of the screen, and the perimeter adhesive.
Reconnect the screen cable and reinstall its cover.
This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily power on your phone and make sure it works as expected. Power it down before continuing.
Firmly press the screen into place on the frame—you should feel the clips "pop" into place.
Press firmly around the perimeter of the screen to secure it with the new adhesive.
Optionally, you can strengthen the adhesive bond by applying pressure evenly to the phone.
Follow this guide to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.

Step 24

The next few steps show how to disconnect and detach the 5G mmWave antenna cable. If your phone doesn't have a 5G mmWave antenna, skip the next four steps.
Be very careful not to scrape off or damage any surface mounted components during this step.
Insert the tip of a spudger under the top edge of the 5G mmWave antenna's press connector.
Gently pry up and disconnect the cable.

Step 25

Three pieces of strong adhesive secure the 5G mmWave antenna cable to the midframe.
Heat an iOpener and lay it on the 5G mmWave antenna cable for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
Alternatively, you can use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but be careful as, extreme heat can damage the battery.

Step 26

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the bottom of the 5G mmWave antenna cable and the midframe, just above the press connector.
Twist the spudger to separate the bottom of the cable from the midframe.

Step 27

Grip the bottom of the 5G mmWave antenna cable and gently peel it from the midframe.
During reassembly, press the cable back into place on the midframe to secure it with the old adhesive. If it doesn't stick, use thin, double-sided tape to secure it.

Step 28

A large graphite sheet must be removed and replaced to complete this repair. It connects the upper part of the battery, midframe, and the rear cameras.
Insert the point of a spudger under different parts of the graphite sheet and lift until you can grip the sheet with your fingers.
The sections of graphite sheet between the rear cameras and the battery will most likely tear. If they do, grip the broken part of the sheet and remove that section.
Peel up and remove the entire graphite sheet.
During reassembly, do not reuse the old graphite sheet. Follow this guide to replace the sheet.

Step 29

Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift the plastic shim that runs along the top of the USB-C port cover.
Remove the shim and set it aside or move it out of the way so you can access the USB-C port cover screws.

Step 30

During reassembly, follow this step to replace the plastic shim that runs across the bottom of the midframe and loudspeaker. If you don't have a replacement, press the old one back into place.
Remove the larger rectangular liner from the shim.
Place the shim so the smaller piece of foam lines up with the bottom of the USB-C port cover.
Use the flat end of a spudger to firmly press down along the whole shim to secure it.
Remove the remaining liner.

Step 31

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
While the Pixel 8 Pro uses Torx Plus screws, standard Torx bits will also work. Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the USB‑C port cover.
Remove the cover.

Step 32

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the seven 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the midframe.

Step 33

Remove the midframe.
During reassembly check the condition of the thermal pad. If it's damaged, remove the pad, clean the area with high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber or lint-free cloth, and apply a new thermal pad.

Step 34

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable press connector.

Step 35

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera press connector.

Step 36

Remove the front camera.

Step 37

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect all three rear camera press connectors from the top edge of the logic board.

Step 38

You may need to hold the 5G mmWave antenna cable out of the way while removing the rear camera assembly screws.
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the rear camera assembly:
One 3.5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the top left corner
One 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the top right corner

Step 39

Insert a spudger between the right edge of the rear camera assembly and frame.
Pry the rear camera assembly up and remove it.

Step 40

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screws securing the 5G mmWave antenna bracket.

Step 41

Insert the tip of a spudger in one of the 5G mmWave antenna bracket's screw holes.
Pry up with the spudger to dislodge the bracket.
Remove the bracket.
During reassembly, insert the bracket at a downward angle so the spring contacts and foam pads press up against the 5G mmWave antenna. Press the bracket down to secure it.

Step 42

Grab the 5G mmWave antenna cable and gently lift the antenna out of its recess.
If the cable disconnects from the antenna, don't worry! Use your fingers to remove the antenna. Make sure to reconnect the antenna cable during reassembly.

Step 43

Insert one arm of a pair of angled tweezers under the metal neck of the black antenna cable coaxial connector, located on the top left corner of the logic board.
Gently lift straight up to disconnect the cable.
To reconnect the cable, hold the connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger—the connector should snap into place. If you're having trouble, don't try to force the connector over the socket. Reposition it and try again.

Step 44

Insert one arm of a pair of angled tweezers under the metal neck of the white antenna cable coaxial connector, located on the top left corner of your phone.
Gently lift straight up to disconnect the cable.

Step 45

Gently pull the white antenna cable out of its clip on the left side of your phone.

Step 46

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect and ultra-wideband press connectors from the top left corner of the logic board.

Step 47

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the loudspeaker.

Step 48

Insert the point of a spudger between the bottom right edge of the loudspeaker and frame.
Pry the loudspeaker up with the spudger to dislodge it from its recess.
Remove the loudspeaker.
During reassembly, insert the edge of the loudspeaker with an orange gasket at a downward angle into its recess. Then press the loudspeaker firmly into place.

Step 49

Adhesive secures the battery to the frame. Heating the back cover softens the adhesive, making it easier to separate.
Carefully flip your phone over and lay it down on your workspace.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun to heat the left side of the back cover, where the battery is located. It should be slightly too hot to touch.
Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 50

Flip your phone back over and lay it on your workspace.
Apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol along the right edge of the battery.
Tilt your phone to help the alcohol flow towards the adhesive on the top and bottom edges of the battery.
Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to dissolve the adhesive.

Step 51

Insert the flat side of an opening pick between the right edge of the battery and frame.

Step 52

Take care not to crease or bend the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
The adhesive securing the battery is very strong. Separating it requires time and constant pressure. It will most likely take multiple rounds of heat and isopropyl alcohol.
Firmly secure your phone with one hand.
With your free hand, pry the battery up with the pick. Maintain constant pressure on the pick until the battery separates from the frame.
If after two minutes of constant pressure the battery doesn't budge, apply more heat and isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Step 53

Use the opening pick to lift the battery and separate the remaining adhesive.
Remove the battery.
During reassembly:
If your battery is creased, bent, or deformed, do not reuse it—it's a fire hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
Follow this guide to remove the old adhesive and install your battery.

Step 54

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2.5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the grounding bracket to the bottom right edge of your phone.
Remove the grounding bracket.

Step 55

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the 3.5 mm‑long 3IP Torx Plus screw securing the logic board.

Step 56

Before removing the logic board, make sure the SIM card tray is removed.
Lift the top edge of the logic board and remove it, making sure no cables get snagged on the board.
During reassembly:
Make sure the interconnect, ultra-wideband, and black antenna cables are out of the way before putting the board into place.
Insert the board at a downward angle so the USB‑C port goes into its recess in the bottom of the frame.
Lay the top of the board down and push it into its recess.

Step 57

Flip the logic board over and lay it down on a soft, clean surface such as a towel to prevent damaging it.

Step 58

Insert one arm of a pair of angled tweezers under the metal neck of the white antenna cable coaxial connector, located on the bottom of the logic board.
Gently lift straight up to disconnect the cable.

Step 59

Gently pull the white antenna cable out of its clips on the bottom of the logic board.
Remove the antenna cable.
During reassembly, use the point of a spudger to gently push the cable back into its clips.

Step 60

You're left with the logic board.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

To run a diagnostics test with the built-in Pixel Diagnostic tool, click here.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

Author

Spencer Day

Member since: 14/09/22

88286 Reputation

3 comments

I need an unlocked pixel 8 pro logic board where can I get one? Thank you so much Brian Purvis

brianpurvis5@gmail.com

Brian Purvis -

Hi, I can't see 5g antenna and cable in my 8 pro. Is it a common thing? Does it mean the 5g is built-in the T3 CPU? Please advise. Many thanks in advance.

MSP -

Hi! It's possible you don't have the mmWave version of the Pixel 8 Pro. As the introduction and step 24 state, you can still use this guide if you have the non-mmWave version, just skip the steps mentioning the mmWave antenna and cable.

Spencer Day -