DualShock 4 Charging Port Replacement

Written By: Bijan Vakilifathi
  • Comments: 71
DualShock 4 Charging Port Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

7

Time Required

25 - 40 minutes

Introduction

This guide provides a step-by-step process of how to replace a charging port in the DualShock 4 controller.

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    • Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.

    • Be careful loosening the screws, using the wrong sized screwdriver, or letting the screwdriver slip can permanently damage the screw heads, making removal extremely difficult.

    Yo usé un Phillips #000, ya que el #00 quedaba grande y podía dañar el tornillo.

    Adolfo Gomez Toledo -

    A plain #0 works way better for me

    Jennica Tapia -

    I agree with Jennica, it's a #0 screw

    Peeter -

    to re-torque these PH00 screw... i found 19Ncm to be about the max. (since 27Ncm was too much)

    Dreamcat 4 -

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    • Four fragile plastic clips hold the casing together. You can see their locations more clearly in this guide.

    • The clips help hold the seams together. If you break these clips, the controller will still work.

    • Beginning with the left handle:

    • Pinch the left handle of the controller to introduce an opening.

    • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.

    • Pull down on tool to pry open the casing.

    • Repeat these steps for the right handle.

    Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.

    foxhoundunit89 -

    Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).

    I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)

    Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!

    Michael Whang -

    couldn't have posted pics for me? :D

    kimsballs -

    Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.

    Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.

    You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2

    When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.

    If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.

    Simon -

    if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.

    meaningless -

    My controller broke

    Gary -

    So what I seem to see a lot of sources fail to mention with this model (and promptly break without noticing) are the two plastic tabs attached to the front shell on either side of the headphone jack ; in order to properly pry that section open, all you need to do is lightly push those plastic tabs in, and the section should open up easily. That seems to be one of the main things that prevent people from prying the shell open.

    The updated models have the tabs as well, but aren’t as stubborn considering the bars between the shoulder buttons on those are inside as opposed to being a part of the shell.

    Hope this helps, and feel free to discuss, especially if you’re more familiar with the issue than me.

    Rifter -

    Thank you so much for mentioning exactly where the internal tabs are located, I couldn't for the life of me get into the controller otherwise.

    I found using two thin plastic guitar picks, the kind that bend more freely, worked very well to shimmy into place on either side of the headphone jack and pop the tabs to get the device to open.

    I did break a small piece from one of the teeth on the back half of the shell that inserts into the tabs, but I believe this was accidentally done before I came across your comment and was prying with a spudger willy-nilly.

    Gently wiggling the front half of the shell containing the main portion of the electronics allowed me to release the triggers and open the controller the rest of the way.

    Fizzwidgy -

    Very helpful, Rifter. Thank you.

    I found this shell assembly surprisingly difficult to separate if you don’t want to break the hook/tabs (and I’m a mechanic, fwiw). There are two pairs of hooks, and none of them are near the “share” and “options” buttons as Step 3 suggests. Like Rifter mentioned, one pair is on either side of the headphone interface. The other is along the sides, right up near the L and R paddles.

    With whatever tool you’re using (bike-tire levers work for me), pry it under the outside base of one of the handles (not inside), lever the tool downward a bit (controller is right-side-up), and slide it forward toward the L/R paddle. That downward rotation should help ease the tab off the hook. For the headphone tabs, pushing inward on the two top-half joystick mounds will help ease those off of the hooks, but you have to push pretty hard.

    If you get them apart, you’ll then be able to gently wriggle the circuit ribbon connector off of the top-half pc board (don’t use a tool - you’ll break it).

    John Branum -

    Why is this guide about unlatching the plastic clips before forcing the halves apart, completely separate and just linked here? I missed it and now 3/4 of my plastic clips are broken. It should not be a separate guide, it should be in the main guide, it's only a couple pictures!

    retrorocket160 -

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    • Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons:

    • Share button

    • Options button

    • Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.

    • Three small pieces are often released from the framework. To prevent loss, maintain a controlled work field.

    • 2 Trigger Springs

    • 1 Grey Reset Button Extension

    You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.

    dzturbd -

    SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?

    ScootsMcgoots -

    I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?

    miamiman77 -

    Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.

    tcbrekke -

    You don't really need it. A long paper clip will work fine.

    Ron Smith -

    I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)

    Rachel -

    My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.

    The5HD -

    I had an extra part, and it wasn’t gray. Thank goodness for the picture of the black one. It’s rubbery. The small end should be inserted down towards the gold colored spot. It’s next to the word RESET on the mobo.

    J Coyote -

    When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.

    To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.

    Jeff Human -

    Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.

    James Goldie -

    Thank You!! The spring came out and I looked for a way to reinsert it. So I led a thread through its opening (so it couldn´t jump away), and compressed it with pliers. So it was easy to put it in.

    VauWeh -

    Jeff, you've been a wonderfully helpful Human. Thanks for the ingenious tip.

    Kris W -

    Thanks man i was struggling there

    Shut-_-Up -

    My controller broke

    Gary -

    Something is stopping me from opening it cause it cut both by splitting tools

    Josuke Higashikata -

    Mine was also really really resistant to being pried open. In the end, i did my best to loosen the entire gap at least once, then inserted along the middle bottom and used more force than i would have been comfortable with. The plastic on the edges is slightly shot now and it’s not as smooth a grip-feeling anymore, but it came apart fine and I didn’t break anything important. There is just a lot of surface for a friction fit like this and the joysticks keep pulling it back down, which in combination makes it really resilliant. In my case it also was exuberated by a minor soda spill along the right handle which ‘glued’ it together, and i imagine that can also happen just with use and ‘hand cheese’, especially on the outer edges. There is a lot of surface area to stick together there.

    Seleen Shadowpaw -

    Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.

    no advice for disconnecting those? there's a warning that they're there... then all the next steps just have it already separated?

    Rook -

    The ribbon cable can be removed without having to pull too much https://youtu.be/y40RUDSPeiA?si=9Y3gNB1w...

    Andrea Collet -

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    • Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by using your fingers.

    • After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.

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    • Remove the two screws holding the sub-assembly together. Then use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch black plastic connector labeled in the picture with the red box.

    • Use the blunt forceps to grab the 2 inch white piece of plastic labeled with the orange box.

    This is quite different in the latest (JDM-030) versions of the controller. The sub-assembly now clips in, there are no screws, and the black plastic connector is completely absent. The circuit board is also clipped in, no screws.

    marcusharvey -

    I have the clipped in version as well. To remove the white peice simply pry up on the right side of it and then slide it out to your right.

    Dylan Lucas -

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    • With the clear piece of plastic pushed in, take the transparent white piece out from the top of the controller.

    • Keep the clear plastic piece on the controller, but keep it pushed down to provide room for charger port replacement.

    • Use the Philips #00 Screwdriver to unscrew the two 4.0 mm screws that attach the charging port to the rear cover.

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    • With the blunt forceps remove the top part of the black tape connecting the charging port to the plastic portion of the controller.

    • Grab the PCB of the charging port from the side and pull upwards slowly to remove from the controller.

    • Do NOT pull the blue PCB rapidly upwards; instead move the piece side to side to create some free space between the controller and PCB.

    I have tryed all of this , changed chargers 7× , changed the charging port & still nothing , do you know why & how could I fix it plz , wey thats if its possible lol but tbf I think its going two be best I buy a second hand pad of ebay or go get another original 1 from shop #Sick #HoleInPocketOnesAgain

    Adam Robson -

    I put in a USB charger PS4 is not charging I don't know why

    Tariq -

    I don’t understand the last warning skin step.

    Salfi H -

    Would be helpful if you explained which way the ribbon cable goes when inserted back into both boards.

    Bet Nimrod -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Bijan Vakilifathi

Member since: 21/01/14

1737 Reputation

33 comments

Where can i get the USB charger part from? mine is damaged so the lightbar and charger doesnt work but it will still connect to my PS4 until the battery runs out.

Matthew -

Did you get it repaired? I need help with mine

Ken Wood -

Where can you get a new DualShock 4 Charging Port Replacement?

Tony -

Have you found them?

jee -

Placed an order with Morbidstix for the charging port. The part was on backorder for four weeks, then Morbidstix refunded my money. It looks like Sony donuts want us fixing our own controllers I guess.

ifixit is out of stock as well.

Nothing on Amazon or Ebay either.

Does anybody know where I can find one of these dual shock 4 charging assemblies?

Nick Hochuli -

my controller war charging until I broke the Mico usb port so I purchased a new one and I can get it to charge at all anytime advice? I've reset it put in a new ribbon and double checked the battery. My controller lights up it just won't charge.

Alan Kane -

My ps4 controller doesn't connect to my ps4 it's says too many usbs are connected

osmanabu66 -

I took apart my controller but the PCB doesnt look like either gen 1 or gen 2 is there a gen 3?

Ray -

Can I charge my P's4 controller with broken socket?

Cristhian Kaiser -

How do I know if I have first gen or second gen? Amazon has the charging ports for sale right now and I need two. My 4 year old tends to force the cable in when the battery is dead and he is mad. :)

Guess I could open one up and look inside. But want to ask anyways. Thanks.

seangardner -

I love ifixit. I have used it numerous occasions. I am not sure why someone would pay $42 to fix a controller issue that may or may not work and you can get a brand new on online for $46.99. I know it's what you guys do and I love it. I just thought I would add my two cents. Thanks.

daniel be -

when replacing the charge port you will need the model/gen number that it is on the part that you will be replacing. mine was JDS-030. disassemble the controller to get to the port and then order the part you need based on the part number and part itself since they are different in size.

Oscar C -

The headphone jack has snaped off inside the dualshock controller of my ps4, tryed a few things off youtube put did not work. can it be repaired or is it time to buy a new one???

JOHANNA COONEY -

if you haven't repaired it or replaced it yet you could try using a very small amount of superglue on a thin stick to attach to the broken headphone jack, give it a minute or 2 to cure and pull it out. make sure not to get the glue on anything other then the headphone jack though

mmmmm -

How do you figure out which usb replacement to buy without opening the controller?

randy barber -

I have changed the charger port on my PS4 pad and I have also put a new battery in the remote and it is still not showing the orange charge light don't know what else to try any ideas?

thanks.

Chris -

Okay repaired 10 minutes

Khalid ibrahim -

How many pins are in the flex cable? Mine is old and the contract pins are broken so I'm getting a replacement.

Jacob Longnecker -

10 pins cable is only meant for the touchpad.

12 and 14 pins cable are used for the USB/lightbar.

14 pins is only used for the 1st gen (JDS-001 only).

12 pins is used for the 2nd gen up to the latest (JDS-011, JDS- 030, JDS-040)

Darth Bidder -

Why is my controller just not turning on, I've already tried resetting it and its been on the charger for about 3 hours

Anthony -

Not accurate for my dual shock controller - a different charging port chip is in place, and no screws are required to be undone to remove the white plastic piece holding the clear plastic cover in place. Also means I need to buy a different chip now that my controller is disassembled, rather than the JDS-011.

Chris Linke -

charger cable was crimped from factory, replaced it using this manual, works great, now what do i do with this $80 new controller i bought and opened..

James -

Guys i tried everything i replaced my port and the ribbon cable with brand new ones.My ds4 is working connectin to my ps4 and working fine just no light bar and usb on top useless so i cant even connect it to other ps4 console any ideas tried to reset it aswell after a reset will say controler disconected but than when i press the ps button it will connect straight away to my ps4 doesnt need usb plugged i dont know how to sort the problem help anyone

Hristo Petrov -

I accidentally removed the connection at the other end of the ribbon. How can I fix this? Also. 4 I shaped metal things came out of the plastic

James Molina -

Jusat fixed my sons controller using these instructions. Very easy and only £2.55 for the part!

Martin Gardener -

New ribbon, and new pcb. Controller still detects a short when plugging into a power source. It's not battery related as I've already swapped that out and the controller functions, it just won't charge. What other options are available to me?

Jack Ryan -

I have changed the charging port and the battery but the controller still will not charge. The light from the port is yellow so it thinks it is charging. Any ideas please on what else it could be? Seems to work fine on a USB cable plugged into a USB Charger.

Angela Cotton -

Can I just replace the usb part or do I need to get the whole jds-011 part?

nick -

I just completed this guide, but one thing I thought I'd leave here is in-case you wanted to upgrade to USB-C at the same time, this is an aftermarket product that can let you do that - https://www.tindie.com/products/mariushe...

Works an absolute treat, and the quality is astoundingly good :D

Aadi Bhamidipati -