Center Chassis Removal (Power Supply Attached)

Step 1

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your console.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker hiding the first screw on the back panel, near the base.

Step 2

For cleaner removal, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the sticker.
Use a pair of blunt tweezers to peel back the large sticker on the back panel to reveal the second screw.
You only need to peel this sticker to where you can access the hidden screw. You don't need to pull it completely off.
Technically, these are tamper-evident stickers, but don't worry—Microsoft can't legally void your warranty, as long as you don't damage anything. Have fun!

Recommend using a hair dryer to soften the label adhesive.

Crash -

Microsoft can void your warranty. They can use whatever excuse if it is sent in because you opened it and you cannot prove you didn’t damage it.

DirtyD -

Step 3

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws securing the back panel.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your console.

Step 4

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the left side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 5

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the back panel and the shell, near the right side of the base.
Pry up the back panel to release it from the locking clips.

Step 6

Grip the back panel at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the shell to unclip the long edges.
During reassembly, press along the edges of the back panel to snap it into place.

Step 7

The back panel slots into a gap at the top of the shell.
Tilt the back panel up and pull it away from the top edge of the shell to release it from the gap.
Remove the back panel.

Step 8

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the fan to the center chassis:
One 10.5 mm pancake screw
Two 8.8 mm screws

are there any 10.5mm wide head screw for the xbox fan for sale because i need a replacement because i accidentally broke mine

GhostMindX9 -

If the 10.5 mm screw isn’t budging, use some pliers to loosen it

Joseph Grant - 07/07/24

Step 9

Use your fingers or a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the fan cable connector, and pull up to disconnect it from the center chassis.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
During reassembly, route the fan cable underneath its small cable guide on the fan housing so it doesn't interfere with the back panel.

But don’t pull the connectors with tweezers because you will inevitably still damage the cable as you have no grip on the connector and the tweezers will slip.

Leif DeWolf -

Step 10

Slide the fan out of its slot to remove it.
During reinstallation, note that the fan can only be installed one way—make sure Master Chief is facing you.
If you're replacing the fan, a new fan might not include the plastic installation bracket, which is attached to the fan with four T10 Torx screws. This isn't pictured in this guide.

Step 11

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up on the locking tab holding the base to the shell.

Step 12

Grip the base and rotate it counterclockwise to unlock it from the shell.
You may need to hold the locking tab open while you get the base started.
Remove the base.
During reassembly, drop the base tabs into their holes on the shell and twist clockwise until the base snaps into the interior locking tab.
When locked in place, the "Hello from Seattle" line will be parallel with the device's sides.

had trouble getting the base off, what worked for me is setting the console on the table sitting on the base and turning the whole console while pushing down.

techy Waterville -

Step 13

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two 8.8 mm screws securing the optical drive's vibration isolator to the shell: one on the base and one on the top of the isolator.

Step 14

Lift up the optical drive's vibration isolator to remove it.
The vibration isolator grips the sides of the optical drive with silicone pads, so you may need to "walk" the isolator off of the drive to slip it off each side.
During reassembly, ensure the vibration isolator is pushed down and around both edges of the optical drive, so it sits flush with the rest of the center chassis.

Step 15

Use a pair of blunt tweezers to grip the edges of the optical drive power connector and pull up to disconnect it from the optical drive.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.
Use your fingers to pull up and disconnect the data cable from the optical drive.

Once again, DO NOT use tweezers to pull these connectors out. That’s a great way to slip and damage something.

Leif DeWolf -

Step 16

Grip the top edge of the optical drive and pull it out of its slot in the shell to remove it.
During reassembly, align the pegs on the bottom edge of the optical drive with the guide holes on the bottom of the shell.
If the drive is misaligned, the top vibration isolator will not be able to be installed correctly, and the disc reader will be misaligned with the front of the console.

Step 17

The ribbon cables and their connectors are extremely fragile, so always open locking tabs gently and pull cables slowly.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the metal locking tab on the USB port ribbon cable.
During reassembly, gently snap the metal locking tab back into place once the cable has been inserted.

Step 18

Use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the black plastic pull tab to disconnect the USB port cable.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
If the USB port cable feels adhered to the metal chassis, use an apply an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable. Depending on your model of Xbox, you may also need to slide an opening pick under the cable to separate the adhesive.

Connector i-pex Evaflex 5-HD 24 pin

20952-024e-02

http://www.i-pex.com/sites/default/files...

drops206 - 27/08/21

The silver ribbon cable is glued down to the center chassis, so only pulling on the black plastic pull tab will result in it pulling free from the cable as that tab is only glued to the cable.

Better to heat the silver ribbon cable's adhesive with a hair dryer, separate the cable from the center chassis, and then pull the cable from the connector using the black plastic pull tab.

Crash -

Step 19

Use the pointed end of a spudger to depress the metal tab on the side of the power button cable's board connector.
With the metal tab depressed, use a pair of tweezers to pull up on the pull tab to disconnect the power button cable from the center chassis.
Pull only on the pull tab, not the cable itself.
Don't pull on the cable without depressing the metal tab, otherwise you risk damaging either the cable or the connector.
During reassembly, the cable should lightly "snap" into place when inserted.

I broke this connector during disassembly. Is there a part number I can use to get a replacement on Mouser or Digikey?

Peter LeCraw -

I broke this connector during disassembly too. Where can I get this connector?

Oscar Cedeño -

the manufacturer of connectors in series x is I-PEX. exact part number (as far as I'm not mistaken) 20535-010E-02 EVAFLEX 5-VS. 0.5mm pin spacing (10pin connector). a possible rescue may be to desolder the connector from the switch board and solder it permanently there.

http://www.i-pex.com/sites/default/files...

drops206 -

How do I purchase this from their website?

munirbisharat12 -

I have these connectors. Baycroc@fedtel.net

Evenson Electronics - 28/08/21

Would we be able to order them from you directly

bailey jackson -

Yes would we be able to order these connectors directly from you?

Blake Roan -

XSX NEXUS FPC Socket

kasynlife -

There is no black pull tab on mine😬. How am I supposed to pull it safely?

Karman Wilmot -

Step 20

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 7.4 mm screws securing the center chassis assembly to the shell.

Step 21

Gently peel the taped USB port ribbon cable off of the heatsink.
Depending on your model of Xbox, the adhesive may be on the underside of the cable. If so, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable.

Step 22

The center chassis is aligned to the shell with guide pegs. These pegs will need to slide out of their slots to allow the chassis to be lifted out.
Grip the center chassis and pull it towards the green fan grille at the top of the shell, uncoupling the guide pegs from the shell.
Lift out the center chassis assembly to remove it from the shell.
During reassembly, make sure neither of the ribbon cables get pinched as you lower the center chassis into the shell.

Step 23

Unlatch the chassis strap from the right side of the power supply.

Step 24

Pull the chassis strap over and off of the power supply.
Once the strap is off of the power supply, set the loose section to the side.

Step 25

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the power cable port to the chassis:
Two 13.1 mm screws
One 35 mm screw

Step 26

Lift the power connector out of its recess in the chassis.

Step 27

Unlatch and open the lid on the power cable's plastic guide.

Step 28

Lift the power cable out from underneath the extra section of the cable guide.

Step 29

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the 8.8 mm screw securing the power supply corner cover.

Step 30

Your Xbox may not have this cover depending on the model.
Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift and remove the power supply corner cover.

Step 31

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 9.6 mm screws securing the accessory antenna board to the center chassis.

Step 32

Grip the antenna board and pull it directly away from the center chassis to disconnect it.
During reassembly, align the board's connector with the port on the center chassis and press to reconnect.

Is this is WIFI Antenna Board that required to replaced if there is a issue with WIFI non-detection ?

Raviraj Iddya -

Step 33

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the nine screws securing the board shield:
Six 8.8 mm black screws
Two 35 mm silver screws
One 13.1 mm silver screw

Step 34

Lift up the board shield to remove it from the center chassis.

Step 35

Disconnect the chassis strap from the locking tabs on either side of the power supply.

Step 36

Remove the chassis strap.

Step 37

Grip and compress the locking tab on the 10-pin power connector.
While compressing the locking tab, lift the connector straight up to disconnect it from the board.
Always pull cables by their connectors and not the wires themselves.

Step 38

Grip the base of the interconnect cable connector with your fingers.
Depress each side of the connector to unlock the cable locking tabs.
With the locking tabs depressed, grip the edges of the interconnect cable and pull it straight out of the connector to disconnect it.
With the locking tabs depressed correctly, the interconnect cable will slide out with very little force.
During reassembly, the interconnect cable should "snap" into place when fully inserted.

Step 39

Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the three 35 mm‑long silver screws from the power supply—leave the fourth black screw in place.

Step 40

Grip the edges of the center chassis (not the power supply) and lift it off of the motherboard and heatsink assembly, routing the interconnect cable through its cutout.

Center Chassis Removal (Power Supply Attached)

Introduction

Tools

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