Introduction

Right in the middle of making rice for dinner, the rice cooker goes out. There is no need to throw it out; this guide will walk you through how to remove your Aroma ARC-914SBD Control Module to find the problem. In 12 steps, we will walk through how to disassemble the control board in about an hour. Within each step the guide contains pictures as well as description on how to replace the control module. Before beginning this project it is important to make sure that you have all the necessary tools and parts. Once the 12 steps are completed, to reassemble the control panel you can repeat the steps in reverse order.

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    • The first step is removing the condensation catcher in order to reach the control panel. We do this by pinching the condensation catcher as shown, on both sides and pull the condensation catcher away from the cooker.

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    • Once the condensation catcher has been removed, set it aside for reassembly later.

    • Now make sure you have a a Phillips head screwdriver, size PH2. This tool will allow you to remove the screw that was behind the condensation catcher.

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    • Gently remove the piece that was held in place by the screw, you do this by pulling out from the top, then pulling up. This will expose the hinges for the lid.

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    • To remove the hinge, gently rotate the bottom of the rod upwards, then push inward to pull the rod out. Repeat the process for each rod. This will allow the lid to be removed.

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    • Locate the piece on the black plastic trim that is opposite from where the hinges were. Carefully, pry this piece from the bottom to get the tab from behind the stainless steel to in front of the steel as shown.

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    • Next, you must remove the upper black trim which is connected to the inside liner with tabs. To do this you must hold the interior walls still, while rotating the trim so that the tabs line up with the slots. (tabs cannot be seen at this point, pics are to give you an idea of what you cannot see inside the device)

    On my ARC-914SBD there is a single square tab that locks into the plastic rim. You can see it through the opening where the hinge was (you can also see the slots you need to rotate past to separate the trim). To see it I had to rotate the lid latch piece (along with the interior wall) counter clockwise past the power button panel. I pulled that tab back so the trim was not locked into the interior wall. Even still it's been impossible to hold the interior wall in place. I suspect there may be another tab that I cannot rotate to. I have a good photo, but don't see a way to send it.

    So now I'm stuck on this step. Not being able to release the trim from the interior wall!!

    Mr Noah Ittall -

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    • Using a Phillips head screwdriver, size PH2, remove the screws from the control module to expose wired connections.

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    • Unplug thermostat from control module

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    • Remove red and blue wires from heating element to fully detach from control module. This is done by removing the screws on the heating element terminals using a Phillips head screwdriver, size PH2.

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    • Again, using a Phillips head screwdriver, size PH2, remove the three screws holding the heating element assembly to the bowl. This will remove the heating element and the thermostat.

    Once removed the termostad what?

    ale espinal -

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    • Unplug the interface from the control module

    How to get new Controlmodule. How. Much it costs.

    Pantulu Chinta -

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    • Unplug the power from the control module

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Brandon Nieves

Member since: 04/09/15

956 Reputation

8 comments

I found the problem inside the unit, a blown thermal fuse on the neutral side of the power. The inside of this unit is nothing like the pictures, but the part up to removing the black rim was accurate. This unit is an SB and apparently a lesser model of the above.

Harriot Smyth -

Thanks for this, very helpful. I only needed to remove the loud, horrible beeper (mission accomplished, woohoo!) although the really hard part for some reason was rotating the tabbed black ring independently of the inside liner. Coudn't get it to budge AT ALL, as if they were glued together. I could only rotate them as a unit inside the housing. After way too long working at this, I ended up wedging a flathead into the crevice between the ring and liner, from the inside, at the two points where I could see the tabs through the hole on the outside, then just twisted the screwdriver and snapped off the tabs one at a time. There are two more tabs on the other side of the ring, but these just slide out once the first two are gone, and the liner can be easily removed. When reassembling, the black trim fits quite snugly back onto the liner, so the unit feels as solid as it did before the operation. Thanks again!

Dav e -

Dave,

I also plan to remove beeper, did you just cut it out or un-solder it? any issues?

thanks

jdelabar@gmail.com

James DeLabar -

I’m not Dave, but I used a vacuum desoldering tool to remove the beeper, which was easy. I think there would have been enough room to cut it out also. The only hard part was getting the black ring off and then back on.

David DiGiacomo -

I want one trolley module for ARC 3000SB. Where can I get. How much I have to. Pay for it approximately.

Email id pantulu.chinta@gmail.com

Pantulu Chinta -

Auto correction error Control module

Pantulu Chinta -

Can I use in 220V supply … I have ARC - 5000SB model bought in USA, want to use in India (220V supply) … do you foresee any problem or it has built in conversion/protection..

K S Ravi Kumar -

No, the heater will only work on the voltage it was designed for. You would need a stepdown transformer.

David DiGiacomo -