Apple Watch Series 6 Screen Replacement

Written By: Dominik Schnabelrauch

Comments: 39

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace a broken, cracked, or defective display on your Apple Watch Series 6.

Replacing the display can cause issues with Apple Pay. If possible, to reduce the likelihood of problems, delete all your Apple Pay account info before the replacement, and then re-enter it with the new display installed.

This guide shows the procedure on the cellular/LTE version of the watch, but the standard GPS-only version is similar.

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before starting repairs, take your watch off the charger and power it down.
If your touchscreen is broken and you can't power off the watch, use this alternate method to power it down.

Step 2

Because the gap between the screen and watch body is so thin, a sharp blade is needed to separate the two. Read the following warnings carefully before proceeding.
Protect your fingers by keeping them completely clear of the knife. If in doubt, protect your free hand with a heavy glove, such as a leather shop glove or gardening glove.
Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as this might cause the knife to slip and cut you, or damage the watch.
Wear eye protection. The knife or glass may break, sending pieces flying.
Attach or remove the watch band as needed to provide more control as you make repairs.

Step 3

Prepare an iOpener (or use a hair dryer or heat gun) and heat the face of the watch to loosen the display adhesive.
Leave the iOpener on the watch for at least two minutes to fully heat the screen and soften the adhesive holding it to the case.
You may need to reheat the iOpener and repeat this procedure several times until the display adhesive softens.

Step 4

Place the edge of a curved blade into the thin gap between the display and the outer case. Start at the short side of the display, most distant to the digital crown.
Press firmly straight down into the gap.
Once inserted, tilt the blade to pry the display open slightly.

Step 5

Insert an opening pick in the gap your created.
Slide the opening pick along the short edge of the watch to cut the adhesive.

Step 6

Slide the opening pick around the corner and along the long edge on the opposite side of the watch crown to cut the display adhesive.

Step 7

Slide the opening pick around the corner to cut the remaining adhesive on the short edge of the watch next to the watch crown.

Step 8

Place the watch on a flat surface and use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.
Try not to slice near the watch crown to prevent damaging the display cables. If you must slice near the crown, don't insert the opening pick deeper than 1/16th of an inch (~2 mm).
Slide an opening pick under the opposite display edge of the watch crown.
Twist the opening pick to loosen the display off the watch case.
Don't try to remove the display. It is still connected to the watch assembly.

Step 9

Be careful not to strain the display cables when you fold the display to the side.
Lift the display and carefully pull it towards the watch crown.
Swing the display open to an upward position.

When I opened my watch I saw two layers of adhesive or are they gaskets? I broke one accidentally but not sure if I should keep the undamaged one in there? Or should both side be totally bare and the adhesive itself is also the seal?

Also I think I damaged my battery when prying it up since it won’t hold a charge now. I bought a replacement battery and will try that but is there anything else it could be?

Melina Jefferson -

Be very careful here... My display cable broke before achieving the angle they show in the last pick above. You may well want to order new cables along with the battery and gaskets. The are only $19.95

Robert Shettel -

Step 10

Prepare an iOpener (or use a hair dryer or heat gun) and heat the rear side of the watch to loosen the battery adhesive. Leave the iOpener on the watch for at least two minutes.

Step 11

From this point, the battery removal procedure for the 40 mm watch differs slightly from the 44 mm version.
If you're replacing the battery for a 40 mm watch, continue with this step.
If you're replacing the battery for a 44 mm watch, continue with this step.

These links for replacing the battery for the 40mm and 44mm are going to the battery section of the screen replacement instructions page. They should go to the battery replacement instructions below instead. (This is likely a copy-paste error from that other page)

Beopaul - 20/08/23

Yeah, bad links in step 11

Christopher Truesdell -

I have edited the links to stay on the correct guide so they should work right once the edit is approved by the admins.

Jerry Wheeler -

Step 12

The following four steps show how to remove the battery from a 40 mm Apple Watch Series 6.
Insert an opening pick between the battery and the Taptic Engine.
Use constant, steady pressure to slowly pry the battery up, separating it from the adhesive securing it to the mainboard.
Make sure you don't puncture or deform the battery, as it can catch fire and/or explode if damaged.
Don't try to remove the battery all the way yet. It is still connected to the watch assembly.

Step 13

The battery flex cable is long enough to allow you to place the battery outside the watch case, but avoid straining the cable when you lift the battery out of its recess.
Carefully lift and swing the battery out of its recess.

Step 14

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.

Step 15

Remove the battery.
Don't reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
If you're reusing your old battery during reassembly, you can reuse the existing adhesive to secure the battery during reassembly.
Alternatively, remove the old adhesive with high concentration isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth and use a small piece of double-sided tape such as Tesa 61395, or a dab of liquid adhesive such as E6000.

Step 16

The following four steps show how to remove the battery from a 44 mm Apple Watch Series 6.
Insert an opening pick between the battery and the Taptic Engine.
Use constant, steady pressure to slowly pry the battery up, separating it from the adhesive securing it to the mainboard.
Make sure you don't puncture or deform the battery, as it can catch fire and/or explode if damaged.
Don't try to remove the battery all the way yet. It is still connected to the watch assembly.

My watch has a metal shield in between the battery and screen?

Eric Macfadyen - 31/01/21

Hi Eric,

I assume you own the 40mm version of the Apple Watch series 6 which has a slightly different build. The one you see here is the 44mm version.

Dominik Schnabelrauch - 04/02/21

Is removing the battery really necessary if you are only replacing the display? I can't see in the following steps where the battery would get in the way of detaching the old screen.

Christopher Truesdell -

I’ve already taken off the screen , had a bad scratch I couldn’t get out then totally messed it up so for $50 bucks and some increased knowledge of Apple Watches I have the 6 44mm and the whole screen is off took 2days, I’m a little afraid I may have taken off the lcd part as well and I just bought a digitizer and new battery i didn’t get anything called an lcd they were more expensive but I’ve looked for hours and I didn’t tear anything, any thoughts?

Jeremy Park -

Hi Jeremy,

Unfortunately what the sites that sell just the digitizer (AKA the front glass) aren't telling you is that it's extremely difficult to separate the LCD and the digitizer, as they're bonded together with glue called OCA (Optically Clear Adhesive). It takes specialized skills and equipment to successfully separate them without damaging the delicate LCD, then even more equipment to rebond the display with a new digitizer. I consider myself a very experienced DIY guy and this isn't something I'd try on an Apple Watch. I have done one on a couple of iPhone 6's that turned out with barely acceptable results, and one on a Samsung phone that failed miserably.

Sorry to say, you'll need to bite the bullet and just buy a new screen assembly, one that includes both the LCD and the digitizer. Presumably you haven't done anything with the replacement part you already bought, so hopefully you can return it.

Jerry Wheeler -

Step 17

The battery flex cable is long enough to place the battery outside the watch case during the following procedure but avoid straining it when lifting the battery out of its recess.
Carefully lift the battery out of its recess and place it outside the watch case opposite to the Taptic Engine.

Step 18

Remove the single 1.2 mm-long tri point Y000 screw.

Step 19

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the metal shield covering the battery connector.

Step 20

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.

Step 21

Remove the battery.
Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
If you are reusing your old battery during reassembly, you can reuse the existing adhesive to secure the battery during reassembly.
Alternatively, remove the old adhesive with high concentration isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth and use a small piece of double-sided tape such as Tesa 61395, or a dab of liquid adhesive such as E6000.

Step 22

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the black protective tape off both display connectors.

why do you have to remove the watch back from Face. You're going.to repace it. Isn;t there enough room to get the display positioned right upon re- assembly?

Bill Brennan -

Step 23

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the lock bars on both ZIF connectors securing the display cables.

Step 24

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel off the edges of the sticker which adheres the display and the grounding cable to the rear side of the screen.

An dieser Stelle muss ich aufgeben. Die Elemente sind sehr stark miteinander verklebt und das Erdungsband reisst sehr leicht.

Thomas Link -

Step 25

Use a pair of tweezers to pull both display cables out of the ZIF connectors.
Do not pull on the watch assembly, or you may rip the display cable.

This says nothing about the grounding cable..

Eric Macfadyen - 01/02/21

Oh. Is that was that was. 👀 I knew I wasn't supposed to break this but the device turned on and functions properly. I'll keep an eye on things and see if my wrists sets on fire at some point. Thank you for pointing this out!

Paul B. - 29/06/23

I also have managed to break 👏

Nick -

I damaged the grounding foil/sticker when opening. It’s like tissue paper thin 😱 I was able to reconnect it in a hacky way but is there a replacement part for that available? That part didn’t come up with the rest of the display cable sticky assembly.

@paul is your watch still functioning properly?

Melina Jefferson - 25/10/23

Step 26

Separate the watch assembly and the screen.

Can we get the application process of the replacement adhesive added to this guide? I ended up messing up my adhesive (completely my fault) and have to buy another set. I thinking adding the guide into this one would be beneficial to the community. Thanks!

Nathanial Bosteder - 26/03/22

The bonding of the tesa tape seems poor. I think I did everything right, but the watch face rises up slightly off the case every day. This is with a new battery and new screen unit. Any tips?

Nicholas Sweeney -

Using standard off the roll Tesa tape won't do, you need the special die-cut tape which is a thinner version Apple Watch (40 mm Series 6) Adhesive Strip or Apple Watch (44 mm Series 6) Adhesive Strip

Dan -

Conclusion

To reassemble your Apple Watch Series 6 follow these instructions in reverse order to reattach the screen and the battery.

Apply a little bit of high isopropyl alcohol (>90%) to a Q-tip or use a cleaning pad to gently remove the leftover adhesive on the edges of the watch case and the screen before installing new adhesive.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 23/11/16

224668 Reputation

20 comments

Can anyone tell me what that 3rd cable is (circled red in the pic linked below)? It’s linked to the metal back in the phone?

https://imgur.com/0meecS9

gauntletmm - 30/05/21

I think it is just a grounding wire.

Daniele Carminati - 30/05/21

Did you ever find out what that third wire is?

Antonio Silva Carrillo -

I want to know too, I break it while pulling the battery yesterday, but the watch seems working fine

Coco -

It’s a shield (grounding) line to control EMI noise

Dan -

Siete magnifici

Romeo Del Guasta -

Dommage qu’il n’y ai pas de lien d’une batterie à acheter ainsi qu’un lien pour trouver le joint d’étanchéité.

jeremy_110 -

Hello, do we lose the Apple Pay functionality if we replace the screen?

jolan lecomte -

No, i dont think so.

Burak -

Where to buy the replacement glass for series 6 Watch?

Peter Mazzara -

Hallo, bei öffnen habe ich versehentlich das Erdungskabel abgerissen. Läuft die Uhr auch ohne dieses Kabel?

Dominik Müller -

Why would you leave out the steps for replacing or reattaching the screen? It’s not the same in reverse as you have to replace adhesive what’s the process or best practice? Do you reheat the adhesive before replacing screen?

KEVOUGHN ROWE -

Ich finde nirgendwo einen Ersatz Akku für die Apple Watch Series 6, 44mm, steht dieser zur Zeit nicht zur Verfügung oder passt der von der Series 5 ebenfalls, so das dieser nicht separat angeboten wird ?

philipp.lang.621 -

Mil gracias por Tu generosidad al compartir Tu conocimiento con los demás.

Olga Gaviria Gomez -

Can just the top touch glass if lcd is fine?

colin -

Which Tesa 61395 Tape width should I buy for a 44mm watch?

arno nabos -

Is there a way to just replace the glass, or do you have to replace the whole screen?

Aaron Sowma -

Not really, the crystal is glued to the panel with a special optical glue

Someone with the needed heater and vacuum chamber could but one has to have the skills as well. Remember we all can’t be brain surgeons!

Dan -

how separate the digitizer from the crack screen?

William -

This is an assembly where the crystal and LED screen are glued together. If you damaged the crystal the you will need to replace the full assembly which has the panel attached.

Dan -